*VERY RALPH is directed and produced by award-winning documentarian Susan Lacy and will be the first documentary portrait of fashion icon Ralph Lauren that debuts on November 12, 2019 on HBO. The feature-length film reveals the man behind the icon and the creation of one of the most successful brands in fashion history.
The ‘Suminagashi’ garments which refect the venerable art of Japanese foating ink on water, are lasercut into liquid lines of dyed silk, heat bonded onto transparent tulle to seemingly and seamlessly fow over the skin. The ‘Dichotomy’ looks are laser- printed, heat-bonded and lasercut into contra-positive waves. Each dissected curve is then pressed onto hundreds of ripple-like panels that ebb and fow in an exquisite swell of meticulously hand stitched silk organza. The ‘Hypnosis’ technique, developed in collaboration with Professor Phillip Beesley involves ten of thousands of plottercut mini ripples that continuously dissect the dress through each movement of the body, revealing skin in between the whimsical spheroid patterns. The printed duchesse-satin is plottercut into thousands of 0.8 mm exquisite waves that each are interlinked, designed to move faster than the eye can follow.
The foundation of the collection is the repetition of a singular silhouette, a workwear inspired overall. The symbolic meaning of ‘rolling up your sleeves’ to work defines the look and feel of the collection. Through belting systems the uniforms can be worn in various ways, creating different looks or silhouettes within a singular style.
An evening with friends - fun, comfortable, soothing, challenging, adventurous, reminiscing, magical and so much more. It can take you anywhere…
seen Jaap Bräutigam
styled Theresa Gross
hair&make up Katharina Handel
models Huxley & Ellen
The collection was never intended to be something that didn’t resonate. There has been an extreme pressure to create ‘newness’ in uncertain times, however the act of being able to anecdote and to be able to tell the next chapter of the story has never been lost.
Constant searching led to amicable feelings towards a certain colour that resonated, or a memory and an experience. The colours feel quite primary but this time there wasn’t too much ‘compromise’. Stains of orange, dirty purple, military khaki and acidic mustard yellow came in pairs. Each look had to follow one another in synchronicity. The silhouette is soft, modest perhaps, with elements of creative pattern cutting, slashing a shirt’s form, imitating an apple pastry. Solemn tailoring is stripped away and is concluded in vibrant offcuts from the entire collection to create a bold suit, broken into geometrical panels.
This calmer rhythm in the studio is echoed in a subtly focussed collection emphasising elements of handcrafting and a lighter touch with layered dip dying and more delicate fabrications.
Leaning towards multi-step development techniques and lighter textiles demonstrates a conscious move to slowing the process down, taking time to breathe and take stock between each stage, and carefully consider every detail down to the individual seems and finishes.
Photographer_ Akram Shah
Stylist_ Simon Rasmussen
Hair & Make-up_ Jenna Scavone
Talent_ Mahi, Samuel Wilken, Symone Lu
With a whimsical boutique, selling more than 20 designers, from cult favorites like Comme des Garҫons to emerging labels like Eckhaus Latta, Vibskov has been in the business of doing it for yourself long before the notion of menswear received as much as head nod from a celebrity or discerning editor looking for the next big thing. Eons before entrepreneurialism became chic. For Vibskov, like many young brands, it was about survival. “It started many years ago when we didn’t have such big collections. We needed other products,” he says. “I like the mix of products, designers, colors, visions, and religions. Just as the world is.”
Yet since 2003, Vibskov has been a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine, the official governing body of French menswear and is one of the most prolific menswear designers to come out of his beloved Denmark to date. Denmark is also where he lives with his family and where his studio is based. It’s also where Den Plettede Gris is, his café located in the center of Copenhagen, Danish for “The Spotted Pig”.
And if you’ve also noticed, the designer has a bit of an unusual fascination with the rose toned creature. Perhaps a consequence of being raised by pig farmers. He even based a collection on his four legged friends, called “The Salami Kitchen.” And founded the P.I.G. (Practical. Intelligence. Genius) Foundation. “The aim is to focus on outstanding new talent, selected from across all creative fields, and to help them financially proceed with their work,” Vibskov says. "I had been doing a lot of talks around the world, participating in juries at schools and so on, and I decided that I wanted to start donating the fees for those activities to help foster some of the amazing creativity out there," he continues.
The PR girl aptly dressed in black ushered everyone to their seats. The humidity inside the gymnasium was equally as oppressive as it had been on the playground. Some guests were fanning themselves with programs. Three women in modest muslin began turning windmills. The ocean of commotion ceased. The models began to walk. Silence. The show had begun.
written MALCOLM THOMAS
Riccardo Tisci, Burberry Chief Creative Officer
art direction SDW
seen Lonneke van der Palen
models Nadie Borggreve + Elisa van Joolen + Nathalie Haelermans + Ingeborg Meier + Benjamin Aerts
hair + make up Bas Cornelis