IRIS VAN HERPEN
* hypnosis


july 019

For this collection, the designer fnds inspiration in the hypnotic manifolds within our ecologies through the work of American artist Anthony Howe. The three-dimensional cyclical harmony of Howe’s kinetic sculptures is the wind beneath the wings of this collection. Howe's spherical ‘Omniverse’ sculpture explores our relationship with nature and intertwines with infnite expansion and contraction, expressing a universal life cycle. The meditative movement of the ‘Omniverse’ serves as a portal for the collection and the models, encircling a state of hypnosis.

LE-MILE-Magazine-by-LE-MILE-STUDIOS-IRIS-VAN-HERPEN-HAUTE-COUTURE-PARIS-WEEK-2019-show-AW2019_6.jpg


“The 'Hypnosis'
collection is a
hypnotic visualisation
of nature’s tapestry,
the symbiotic cycles
of our biosphere
that interweave
the air, land, and
oceans. It also
refects the ongoing
dissection of the
rhythms of life and
resonates with the
fragility within
these interwoven
worlds.”

Iris van Herpen


The collaboration with Howe evolves ‘in an ecstasy of attentiveness’ through the symbiosis of all the elements of nature that are dependent on each other. As one of the key pieces of the collection, the fnale ‘Infnity’ dress comes alive on the breath of a fnely balanced mechanism. An engineered skeleton of aluminium, stainless steel and bearings is embroidered with a delicate layering of feathers in cyclical fight; revolving around their own centre. ‘Hypnosis’ refects the beauty and complexity of our environment, exploring the patterns and structures within its fragile landscape.

On July 1st, 2019, Iris van Herpen presented her latest Couture collection, titled 'Hypnosis', at Élysée Montmartre in Paris. The collection is inspired by the hypnotic manifolds within our ecologies through the work of American artist Anthony Howe. The three-dimensional cyclical harmony of Howe's kinetic sculptures is the wind beneath the wings of this collection.


The 'Hypnosis' collection consists of 19 silhouettes that fow deceptively in transparencies. Multilayered around the body, they revive the ancient silk moiré weaving technique that links to the illusory nature of human perception. The ‘Epicycle' looks are constructed by multi-layering luminous organza spheres, which challenge the relationship between surface and substance through illusory patterns that wrap into each other infnitely.

The ‘Suminagashi’ garments which refect the venerable art of Japanese foating ink on water, are lasercut into liquid lines of dyed silk, heat bonded onto transparent tulle to seemingly and seamlessly fow over the skin. The ‘Dichotomy’ looks are laser- printed, heat-bonded and lasercut into contra-positive waves. Each dissected curve is then pressed onto hundreds of ripple-like panels that ebb and fow in an exquisite swell of meticulously hand stitched silk organza. The ‘Hypnosis’ technique, developed in collaboration with Professor Phillip Beesley involves ten of thousands of plottercut mini ripples that continuously dissect the dress through each movement of the body, revealing skin in between the whimsical spheroid patterns. The printed duchesse-satin is plottercut into thousands of 0.8 mm exquisite waves that each are interlinked, designed to move faster than the eye can follow.

credit
courtesy Iris Van Herpen

https://www.irisvanherpen.com