Yulia Pavlen - Interview

YULIA PAVLEN
*When You´re Strange

written + interview HANNAH ROSE PRENDERGAST

POV: You embrace who you are, learn to laugh at yourself, and never fear standing out. —a friendly reminder from Yulia Pavlen.

Born in the early years of Ukraine’s independence, she grew up during a time of radical transformation. Ever the optimist, she carried bright, artful memories of home when she moved to Berlin in 2022.
In this new city, where being strange felt less like an exception and more like a shared language, her TikTok became an extension of how she moved through the world. If you see Yulia doing her makeup on the subway, the best thing you can do is be her mirror.

Shooting outdoors in 40°F (5°C) weather was one of my most challenging experiences. I wore five looks, most of which were lightweight—one was just a skirt and bra. I was freezing the whole time but didn’t say anything. I knew it wouldn’t be easy, so I focused on giving my best.
The team was amazing, checking in regularly, which I really appreciated.
I also faced my fear of heights: sitting on a subway exit railing, standing in a second-floor windowsill, and posing on an electrical box.
Despite the challenges, I’m incredibly grateful for the experience. I love stepping out of my comfort zone. My motto is, 'This scares me, but let’s try it. ' Taking risks and pushing myself are just who I am.
When I’m doing what I love, I forget about the discomfort. It feels like leaving the world behind and stepping into a space where I can express myself freely.

—Yulia Pavlen

Yulia Pavlen
Coverstory LE MILE Ephemeral Edition Nr. 38 / 01/2025
seen by Per Appelgren, wearing CELINE

“I was always Daddy’s little girl … riding on his motorcycle gave me my first real taste of freedom.”

Yulia Pavlen speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

coat JOSHUA SENGESPEICK

top CELINE
panties MIU MIU
shoes AEYDE
coat JOSHUA SENGESPEICK

Hannah Rose Prendergast
What inspired you to start your Get Ready With Me series on the subway?

Yulia
When creating new content, I always ask myself, ‘Would this idea hook me?’ The GRWM concept came to me almost by accident as I reflected on what would genuinely captivate me. I love makeup and often do it in public spaces, so the idea feels natural. Moving forward, I want to improve the quality of my content, especially in terms of lighting and video production. I’m always brainstorming new ideas. On TikTok, you can never be sure if an idea will succeed—you have to try it out and see how viewers respond.

How do you and your camerawoman work together to bring your vision to life?

My camerawoman, Valeria Shelihova, is also a close friend. Although we’re both from Ukraine, we met in Berlin. We have a great connection and often communicate without speaking. I provide the creative direction, and Valeria captures it all as it unfolds.

What do you find therapeutic about creating content?

It sounds odd, but I thrive on not being accepted by everyone. Not everyone rejects me for wearing makeup, but many people do. That energy of rejection, rather than breaking me, fuels my determination. I’ve learned to stand firm and not let others’ opinions affect me. When you stand your ground and refuse to let negativity define you, that’s when you truly win—and there’s no better feeling than that.

How has your artist name changed over time, and what does it mean to you now?

As a teenager, I went by 'Autistic' and even got it tattooed. I chose the name because I was reserved, shy, and had no friends. People thought something was wrong with me. At the time, I was studying in art college, immersing myself in painting and classical literature. I saw myself as a strange, lyrical character named 'Autistic.'

When I moved to Berlin, I was set to collaborate with a designer, but he declined because of my name. That’s when I realized it might be holding me back professionally. I wanted a name that feels more like me—timeless, elegant, and strong. Yulia Pavlen aligns more with where I’m heading, both creatively and professionally.

top CELINE
panties MIU MIU
shoes AEYDE

total look SPORTMAX
shoes AEYDE

“Moving to Berlin wasn’t easy, but thanks to the kindness of strangers, I never felt alone.”

Yulia Pavlen speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

top NICKLAS SKOVGAARD
tights FALKE
necklace PEARL OCCTOPUSS.Y

What was your experience growing up in Ukraine and then moving to Berlin?

I’m from Kharkiv, Ukraine’s first capital—a beautiful yet industrial city with a unique charm. I grew up in the Saltovka neighborhood, which endured heavy shelling due to its proximity to the Russian border. Soviet-era panel housing shaped much of my early years, but despite everything, I love Kharkiv and its people—they are kind, resilient, and have an incredible sense of humor.

Moving to Berlin wasn’t easy, but I was fortunate to meet incredible people who helped me with housing and paperwork and made me feel like family despite being strangers. Thanks to their kindness, I never felt alone or afraid of not knowing German. They were always there to support me. Living in Europe changed me. People here are much more supportive than in Ukraine. Back home, I often felt misunderstood or ridiculed. I guess I was a bit too different. Now, I’m excited to collaborate with talented professionals in the fashion industry from around the world.

Who introduced you to the world of art?

As an artist, my father exposed me to art from a young age. He often took me to exhibitions and museums and filled our home with books on classical and modern art. He also gave me many of his art materials, which became my first tools for creativity. I’m deeply grateful to him for immersing me in this world. I always knew I would become an artist—it was never a question. I dedicated myself to studying academic art, including drawing, painting, composition, and anatomy. I was incredibly passionate, and art became a way to express my thoughts and feelings. Although I’m not currently drawing, I may return to it someday.

How did you learn to ‘own your glow’?

The modeling industry values uniqueness and a distinctive edge more than conventional beauty. Many incredibly beautiful people struggle to present themselves. This skill comes from knowing who you are and embracing what sets you apart. Owning your glow is essential—it will shine through your work and light up the space around you.

Why should you believe in the kindness of strangers?

I always choose to believe in the good—it is a mindset that works best for me. The same goes for people I don’t know. I don’t dwell on whether they’re good or not; instead, I prepare myself mentally and emotionally to believe nothing bad will happen to me.

What change do you want to see in yourself and the world?

I want world peace. War is the worst thing that can happen. Personally, I want to be more patient with myself in achieving my goals. Good results take time.

What’s one of your core memories from childhood?

I was always Daddy’s little girl, spending most of my time by his side. He often took me on motorcycle rides, and I especially loved the thrill of racing down the expressway with him. Those moments gave me my first real taste of freedom.

top CULT FORM
skirt NICKLAS SKOVGAARD
tights WOLFORD
shoes AEYDE
accessoires CELINE

photographer PER APPELGREN
creative + art direction STUDIO NONSENS / STEFANIE SCHELLWIES + LISANNE KURTH
talent YULIA PAVLEN
styling NESSIE
hair MASAYUKI YUASA using Less is More Organic Cosmetic
make up LEE HYANGSOON using Gucci Beauty
production ENLIL via AVEC NOUS BERLIN
moving image METTE NORDVIG
light LIAM MULLIGAN
digi TOBIAS ORTMANN
social KARLA SCHRADI
retouch ROMARIO MAHEER

production coordination + booking lemilestudios

first published
LE MILE Ephemeral Edition Nr. 39 (2025)

ILONA - Interview

ILONA
*Always The Bride

written + interview HANNAH ROSE PRENDERGAST

"In some way, I always knew," ILONA says of her call to fashion. Born in Paris and raised in LA, the odds were set. In 2022, she made it official, launching her label on home soil.

Each piece is handmade with love, guided by self-taught haute couture techniques and the meticulous instinct of a Virgo. After all, psychological armor is heavy; the wearer must feel unbridled, deranged, and somewhat aggressive.

In this spirit, ILONA’s second collection, Psychosis, recounts her time as a teenager in a psychiatric hospital. Rather than relying on the darker, more literal tones often tied to mental illness, she stains warm off-whites and soft pastels for a more poignant touch.

The mood exists somewhere between frayed cotton, silk linings, weathered lambskin, distressed tulle—and lots of sparkle. Ask Esther. Here, ILONA emerges from under her rock, roaming the streets of Carroll Avenue in her own creation—a pink and gold lamé bridal gown with Calais lace.

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

Hannah Rose Prendergast
AS OF LATE

Ilona
I’ve been in LA planning some exciting future projects and taking a small break since the release of my latest collection.

LA EXPORTS

I brought back Betty Crocker fudge brownies and a sunny attitude, both lacking in Paris.

SHUTTER MEMORY

I got my first film camera when I was 16. It was a manual Nikon FM2, and I wanted to figure out how to use it. I had a photography teacher in high school who was really influential and taught me the ins and outs of the darkroom. It helps me today because I still shoot film occasionally and sometimes incorporate it into my work.

PLAY BY EAR

Music inspires me during the design process and keeps me going during the sometimes tedious sewing stages. I also always listen to music during my cigarette breaks and come up with new ideas.

BERLIN BRAIN

I moved to Berlin when I was 20 and knew only one person there. On a gloomy winter day, I decided to study neuropsychology. It was an enriching experience for which I’m grateful. I love Berlin and cherish my time there.

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

“After all, psychological armor is heavy; the wearer must feel unbridled, deranged, and somewhat aggressive.”

Ilona speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Issue 38 / Ephemeral Edition SS25

NOBLE CAUSE

In the past, I struggled with the idea of working in fashion, thinking it was a selfish or superficial profession that didn’t contribute much to the world. As I’ve grown older, I’ve realized that the creative process of making garments makes me happy. Some people resonate with the clothes, and I’m okay with it being my calling.

CASTELLUCCI’S PARSIFAL

It inspires me to this day. The colors, costumes, and set design are insane. Castellucci creates a world like no other.

DEADSTOCK VALUE

I’ll continue using deadstock fabrics, as there is way too much waste in the world. I can also source unique couture fabrics I don't believe are made anymore. I like the individuality they bring to the garments.

NEVER THE BRIDESMAID

Most of all, I love the couture looks that take weeks to make. I included some more ready-to-wear elements for my second collection, which I hadn’t done in the first. I wanted some garments to be wearable every day. But I’ll always include a bride because I love to do it and think it really ties a collection together.

THE GOOD NURSE

I included quite a few nurses who were definitely my saviors during that time, as well as my friends who stuck with me through that traumatic period. I usually name my garments after my friends and people I love.

LAMB OF GOD

I sent Brodie Kaman pictures of all my stuffed animals, and we decided the lamb made the most sense. There’s a stuffed bunny that I've had since I was born, which I also included in some of the imagery for the collection.

LIGHTEN UP

Now, people think goth has more colors..

HAPPY IS

Iced coffee, puppies, cake, books, palm trees, my family, and my friends

NEXT LEVEL

I’m in a transitional phase of my life, figuring out where I might relocate as I plot my next collection.

LIFE ADVICE

Be delusional.

ILONA seen by Miriam Marlène

Sun Yuan & Peng Yu - Interview

.aesthetic talk
SUN YUAN & PENG YU
*The Last Laugh

written + interview HANNAH ROSE PRENDERGAST

Ashes to ashes, dust to dust—everything returns to its original state, endlessly transforming. Art, too, is reborn with each encounter.

If you are lucky, you will find yourself as a Sun Yuan and Peng Yu original—a couple from Beijing who have been making art together for twenty-five years.
There are many great options.
If we look to Civilization Pillar (2001) for answers, what binds us is nothing more than liposuction fat. Yet you are far more complex—a silicone human capable of floating on water, soaring through the sky, and falling flat on land (not necessarily in that order).
From a dead fly on the wall to an industrial robot trapped in an infinite loop: the choice is yours.
At least, that is the idea.

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Teenager Teenager, 2011

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Teenager Teenager, 2011

“The distance between me and weapons is the distance between me and freedom.”

Sun Yuan speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Teenager Teenager, 2011

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Can't Help Myself, 2016-2019

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu
Can't Help Myself, 2016-2019

Hannah Rose Prendergast
You reposted Hey Brother (2022) after the U.S. presidential election results, writing, 'Although the future is full of uncertainty, we are together.' What moved you to express solidarity with the American people in that moment?

Sun Yuan / SY
Unity may not be so important, but people of different races and beliefs living in the same country and on the same planet must always face their relationships with one another. This is an eternal theme. The same piece of cloth connects two shovels; they wrestle with each other but cannot be separated. The tension created forms the internal relationship of a work. Likewise, the relationships between people within a country are the same.

Peng Yu / PY
People’s emotions were twisted with excitement and nervousness. Many countries, including China, delayed decisions and policy changes until the results were announced. As a result, methods of warfare in different regions will also shift. The entanglement of forces for survival shapes human relationships. Being together may be helpless and unavoidable—it can mean unity or struggle.

Freedom (2009) and Dear (2015) feature violently animated hoses in confined spaces, symbolizing the chaos of unregulated authority. What is the ongoing dialogue between these two works?

SY: The basic principles of these two works are the same, but one is powered by a water pump and the other by an air pump. It is like two people with different temperaments responding in a confrontation. Freedom generates tremendous force to strike the iron plate, while Dear thrashes into the chair and glass, leaving scratches behind. The recurring theme of struggle appears in many of our works.

PY: Some people see Freedom as a trapped dragon, while Dear represents the soul of a person controlled by power. Both express a natural, uncontrollable force.

The tension running through Open Sesame (2012) and If Seeing Is Not an Option (2013) stems from the fact that private gun ownership is illegal in mainland China. In 2002, you started building arsenals abroad with the help of Taiwanese and Swiss collectors. What does this separation mean to you?

SY: I need to possess weapons in my own way. Without weapons, you cannot have freedom. The distance between me and weapons is the distance between me and freedom. The feeling of freedom is strongest when you do not yet have it. Therefore, I cannot touch guns. This is the stage when they hold the most meaning for me.

PY: The title Open Sesame comes from the magical incantation that unlocks a treasure-filled cave in fairy tales. It symbolizes the gateway to a new world. If Seeing Is Not an Option was completed in Kyiv, Ukraine, resembling a weapons training camp inside the art gallery. Looking back, it seems like an early warning, a crisis-awareness training for what might come. I hope the young volunteers who participated in this work are all doing well. Our weapons caches are like tentacles in consciousness, with which we can feel and care for the world across dimensions.

Your use of live animals started and stopped in 2003 with Keep Dogs Away and Safety Island. Was this a conscious decision, or did it occur naturally over time?

SY: That was a conscious decision because the following works used the most cunning animal: humans. Animals cannot perform falsely—they do not follow commands, and instinct determines their behavior. Human nature is more complex. Not only do they have the combative traits of animals, but they also adopt strategies and schemes to achieve their goals. This is politics. I have always focused on and been interested in exploring these complex and instinctive relationships.

What draws you to working with animal specimens, including taxidermy? What do you find rewarding or meaningful in using it as a medium?

SY: An artwork is, in essence, a specimen of art. Creating art with specimens does not bring a sense of accomplishment. However, animal specimens help us imagine how the animal looked when it was alive. Similarly, artwork enables us to imagine the process of its creation—how it looks when conceived or deconstructed in our minds. In this way, the artwork gains meaning.

“Art cannot always develop according to the artist’s original wish. Sometimes, it needs to leave the artist and introduce the will of others.”

Peng Yu speaks with Hannah Rose Prendergast
for LE MILE Ephemeral Edition - SS 2025 Nr. 38

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu Old
People's Home, 2007

(c) Sun Yuan & Peng Yu Old
People's Home, 2007

Can’t Help Myself (2016) is a friendly reminder that humans program robots. How does this piece comfort us in an era of rapid AI development?

SY: This work explores a relationship of mutual control—a dynamic that permeates every corner of the world, including social interactions. When the machine operates, viewers can immediately sense the entanglement and constraint within this relationship. By engaging their own bodily experiences, they can either confront or relieve this tension. Ultimately, the viewer develops an understanding of the work: empathy through shared form. However, I do not seek to impose specific opinions or suggestions; the meaning is for the viewer to interpret freely. My role is simply to provide a framework for 'gazing.'

PY: I like the word 'gaze.' It is different from appreciation or simply watching. Gazing involves doubt, and where doubt arises, interpretation follows. Finding an answer is humanity's way of saving itself. The answer offers a form of comfort without a definitive right or wrong. We must also gaze, doubt, and judge when artificial intelligence arrives. People fear the unknown but will find comfort once they obtain some answers. When we proposed this project to the Guggenheim Museum in 2005, most people were unfamiliar with the concepts of artificial intelligence, programming, and robotics. Some feared the mechanical arm might shatter the glass and escape. Today, it stands as a representative work ushering in the era of artificial intelligence.

How often has the ‘uncanny valley’ of your replica humans gotten you into trouble?

SY: I do not attempt to explore the "uncanny valley." This effect attracts the public, but to me, it is shallow. Therefore, I do not have high expectations for the reactions caused by imitating reality in the work. It is merely a guide, making it easier for people to immerse themselves, just like watching a movie. The more vivid and specific the actor’s image, the easier it is for the audience to enter the story.

If I Died (2013) represents Peng Yu’s mother’s perception of death. What did it mean to construct this for her?

PY: Perhaps it is precisely because of her bold conception of death that she lives so happily. Art cannot always develop according to the artist’s original wish. Sometimes, it needs to leave the artist and introduce the will of others. By relinquishing authorship, the artist gains a certain freedom—not much, but enough to deceive oneself. It is like showing an elderly person herwish. For her, it is both illusory and comforting. It is like knowing a religious statue is just a sculpture, yet still able to strengthen one’s faith and find comfort in it.

How has your perspective of impermanence evolved over the years?

SY: Impermanence is an inherent method of artistic creation. Artists must constantly make their works unfamiliar to avoid falling into a fixed pattern. Therefore, changes in impermanence cannot be a regular evolution. Once the change has a pattern, it is no longer impermanent. A predictable trajectory surprises neither the creator nor the viewer.

As artists who have been labeled “controversial,” what are your thoughts on cancel culture?

SY: Although it may cause controversy, I try to maintain a certain distance from reality. This helps me observe clearly and avoid getting trapped in the meaning or interpretation of reality. The superficiality and extremism of cancel culture are both a human need and a defining characteristic. People do not completely hate their flaws; sometimes, they even take pleasure in them—like smelling their farts or scratching an itchy mosquito bite. So, I neither support nor oppose it; I simply observe. When humans think, God laughs. To keep God laughing, humans can think a little more.

Why do you think the world is a fine place to fight for?

SY: I actually have no answer. However, if striving keeps God laughing a little longer, I am willing to try.

What is next for you?

SY: I have no plans ahead.