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WANDLER Pre-Fall 2019: Wandler shows a distinctive aesthetic.


WANDLER Pre-Fall 2019: Wandler shows a distinctive aesthetic.


 

 

WANDLER
* p/f 019


july 019

Clear in function and shape, Wandler shows a distinctive aesthetic: elegant with unexpected dimensions and a dynamic use of colors.

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The bags are
handcrafted
in Italy
and named
after loved
ones
who are an
inspiration
for the
designer.


Embodying modern femininity, each bag is a reflection of the designer – as she is and who she aspires to be. Wandler is committed to sincere quality, each design is handmade in Italy.

In 2017 Elza Wandler launched her namesake brand Wandler. Born and raised in the south of the Netherlands, the designer currently works and lives in Amsterdam.

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A palette of warm materials and tones is crafted that maximises the impact of leather textures, designed with an intentional interplay of soft and textured elements. For the first time, the designer includes grain, pony and tie dye leather and chooses denim to create an interesting harmony between materials. Colors like Syrup, Mahogany,

Eggshell and Thundercloud serve to enhance the underlying vintage-modern edge to the designs. This season’s new mini styles, the Yara Box and Luna Mini, and Zebra skin express the fun charm of the brand.

The collection is carried by a selection of high end retailers, including Net-a-Porter, Barneys, Matches, Isetan, Browns, Dover Street Market, Hypebae, Mytheresa, Antonia, Luisa Via Roma, Galleries Lafayette, 10 Corso Como, Moda Operandi, Boutique 1, Totokaelo, The Webster, Forty Five Ten, Holt Renfrew, Lane Crawford, Beymen, The Modist and Le Mill.


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Griffin x Woolrich Autumn Winter 2019 Collection


Griffin x Woolrich Autumn Winter 2019 Collection


 

 

GRIFFIN x WOOLRICH
* sophisticated sustainability


july 019

For almost 25 years Woolrich´s design hub *Griffin Studio* has designed garments and collaborated with some of the foremost outerwear brands worldwide, mixing fashion and sportswear at the cutting edge of innovation with a refusal to compromise on attention to detail.

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“Think about each
new piece that you
add to your wardrobe;
its care, laundry,
lifespan - in other
words its impact and
yours on the
environment”.


Marie O´Mahony, Professor at Royal College of Art, London (UK)


Griffin Studio is Woolrich´s internationally renowned design hub. Based at the highly accoladed Loveland Farm eco retreat in Hartland, North Devon. Hartland is England´s most geographically remote location, famous for its stunning coastline and challenging, diverse landscape.

Woolrich is known for its high-quality wooden goods which pass the test of time with flying colors-both physically and aesthetically. Textile innovation is one of Woolrich´s core values, in terms of both fabric selection and manufacturing methods. Whether it´s prioritising stitches over bonding to ensure repairability, or utilising recycled fabric for packaging.

For the new fall/winter 019 collection, Griffin x Woolrich uses high quality, sustainable and 100% recycled polyester filament which is made by recycling the plastic collected at the bottom of the sea. The fabrics are highly breathable and waterproof.



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Lacoste x Golf Le Fleur Collaboration


Lacoste x Golf Le Fleur Collaboration


 

 

Lacoste x Golf Le Fleur
* Tyler, The Creator


july 019

Following a teaser in a recent video from California-based musician Tyler, The Creator, we now have the chance to see the first collaboration between Lacoste and Tyler, The Creator´s clothing brand GOLF le FLEUR.

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Don’t say dusty
pink, say “litchi”.
Beige becomes
a mineral
geode”. Forget
about off-white;
here we are talking
mascarpone”.


Lacoste


The collection injects some of the US artist´s iconic style into 80s courtside flair. 

The tennis-inspired collection includes tracksuits, shorts, bucket hats, Lacoste´s signature polo shirts and embodies comfortable and uni-sex cuts and styles in contrasted colours. The colours themselves were renamed to express singularities produced by surprising multi-shades or complementary side tints. The nerdy polo shirts are executed in solid mascarpone with accents of litchi. Somewhere in-between the classy, laid-back tennis lifestyle and street- evel subcultures, Lacoste × GOLF le FLEUR redefines conventional notions of elegance and casual style. 


This fresh, sport-oriented collection will drop on 17 July 2019 in Lacoste’s physical and online stores, as well as concept stores around the world. 

https://www.lacoste.com/



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SWD Schueller de Waal PARIS DURING COUTURE WEEK 2020


SWD Schueller de Waal PARIS DURING COUTURE WEEK 2020


 

 

SCHUELLER DE WAAL
*Collaborative Cleaning Initiative


july 019

For Paris Haute Couture 2019/2020 the Dutch fashion design duo Schueller de Waal teams up with Pik Pik Environnement to present its first Collaborative Cleaning Initiative named ‘Litter’, supported by the city of Paris.

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On tuesday 2 July, on a public square, right in front of the town-hall of the 15th arrondissement,
a group of 50 models, cool kids and volunteers started to clean the streets in an upbeat cleansing fashion performance. The models picked up trash from the streets, dressed head-to-toe in freshly made garments made from the studio’s leftover fabrics, deadstock and other remains from the fashion industry. The act of cleaning served as an inspiration for both the presentation as well as a design principle. With the performance, the initiators aim to make a powerful statement on the current state of the industry and inspire for change.

CLEANING (IN) HAUTE COUTURE

‘Litter’ elevates ‘the act of cleaning’ by combining different elements into a collective cleaning session. Rather than changing a location to meet the needs of a fashion show, SDW studio created an intervention that has a positive effect on the location. Collaborating with local NGO’s (PikPik Environnement, Green Bird Paris, FNE France Nature Environnement) educating about garbage separation and conscious living as part of city maintenance, and fashion professionals (stylists, fashion journalists etc.) supporting the mission, SDW Studio dressed a diverse group of people in an eclectic range of cleaning uniforms.

THE COLLECTION

Driven by the idea of re-using previous collections and giving them a new context, the collection translates the concept of ‘Litter’ into re-purposing. SCHUELLER DE WAAL re-purposes their body of work into a range of one-size-fits-all and multifunctional cleaning uniforms through various re-purposing design principles.

The foundation of the collection is the repetition of a singular silhouette, a workwear inspired overall. The symbolic meaning of ‘rolling up your sleeves’ to work defines the look and feel of the collection. Through belting systems the uniforms can be worn in various ways, creating different looks or silhouettes within a singular style.


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Schepperheyn SS20 Collection - An evening with friends


Schepperheyn SS20 Collection - An evening with friends


 

 

Schepperheyn
* an evening with friends


july 019

Schepperheyn continues to spread genderless vibes within the new Unisex collection, presenting a number of oversized styles, merging tailoring with work- and streetwear.

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An evening with friends - fun, comfortable, soothing, challenging, adventurous, reminiscing, magical and so much more. It can take you anywhere…

Prints are combined with fabrics such as cotton, silk, premium jerseys, organic & recycled denim and tech fabrics. The collection thrives on a variety of elements such as contrasting topstitching details, trimmings and colour blocking. The sharp colour palette of prussian blue, black, navy, off-white, caramel, lilac and white is accompanied by an interplay of technical fabrics and natural textiles. Printed silk scarfs complete the collection range.

During Berlin fashion week, they showcased the collection in their redesigned store.

credits_
seen Jaap Bräutigam
styled Theresa Gross
hair&make up Katharina Handel
models Huxley & Ellen

https://schepperheyn.com



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Paria FARZANEH Spring Summer 2020 * Virtual Signalling


Paria FARZANEH Spring Summer 2020 * Virtual Signalling


 

 

paria /FARZANEH
*s+s 2020


june 019

The fascination started in trying to find why someone would ever feel so attached to an item of clothing. What makes them obsess over it? Why would they make sacrifices for something they couldn’t have instantly? Perhaps they find it rewarding to work hard for that piece? 

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The collection was never intended to be something that didn’t resonate. There has been an extreme pressure to create ‘newness’ in uncertain times, however the act of being able to anecdote and to be able to tell the next chapter of the story has never been lost. 

Constant searching led to amicable feelings towards a certain colour that resonated, or a memory and an experience. The colours feel quite primary but this time there wasn’t too much ‘compromise’. Stains of orange, dirty purple, military khaki and acidic mustard yellow came in pairs. Each look had to follow one another in synchronicity. The silhouette is soft, modest perhaps, with elements of creative pattern cutting, slashing a shirt’s form, imitating an apple pastry. Solemn tailoring is stripped away and is concluded in vibrant offcuts from the entire collection to create a bold suit, broken into geometrical panels.


Sometimes I feel I should completely stop but then there is still so much that needs to be said. When you are a creative the biggest judge is yourself. I always think, if it isn’t good enough for me, then it won’t be good enough for anybody else. When reflecting on this again in the future, it will be looked at from a different perspective, a part of the story which helped to build the ongoing narrative. 



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ASTRID ANDERSEN Spring Summer 2020 Collection Lookbook


ASTRID ANDERSEN Spring Summer 2020 Collection Lookbook


 

 

ASTRID ANDERSEN
*s+s 2020


june 019

Astrid Andersen launches her Spring+Summer 2020 collection taking a slower, quieter approach to the creative process. 

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This calmer rhythm in the studio is echoed in a subtly focussed collection emphasising elements of handcrafting and a lighter touch with layered dip dying and more delicate fabrications. 

Leaning towards multi-step development techniques and lighter textiles demonstrates a conscious move to slowing the process down, taking time to breathe and take stock between each stage, and carefully consider every detail down to the individual seems and finishes.

Inspired by the ethereal and poetic, Astrid Andersen was deeply influenced by the visual universe of South Korean artist Do Ho Suh and the soundscapes of musician James Blake. Peacefully crafted hand-dyed organza anoraks, trenches and hoodies give a nod to this. A retrained palette of light greys into dusty blues, black and hints of ochre further flow into this season’s mindful and contemplative mood. Spring/Summer 20 reimagines pieces exploring the area of formal shirting and sweatshirts, applying custom tonal leopard print across silk sports shirts, signature seam-sealed tracksuits and shows a fresh perspective on the brand’s jersey/velour cut track suits with a retro-poetic feel.

credits_
Photographer_ Akram Shah
Stylist_ Simon Rasmussen
Hair & Make-up_ Jenna Scavone
Talent_ Mahi, Samuel Wilken, Symone Lu

https://astridandersen.com



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Denmark’s crown prince of fashion doesn’t care what you think.


Denmark’s crown prince of fashion doesn’t care what you think.


 

 

HENRIK VIBSKOV
*Denmark’s crown prince of fashion doesn’t care what you think


written
MALCOLM THOMAS

may 019

I was sweating. Beads of perspiration were pouring down my neck, my face, and back. Rolling down my gold and silver sequin blazer. The hot Parisian sun was unforgiving. The man beside me was wearing a leather trench coat.

Henrik Vibskov.  (c) Christian Larsen

Henrik Vibskov.
(c) Christian Larsen

Others looked like lost cast members of Willy Wonka and the Chocolate Factory. We all looked ridiculous. But we didn’t care. For some, it was as if Christmas had come early. One man raved to another about how far he had traveled just to see the show. The soles of my shoes seemed to be burning into the tar of the earth. Yet, here we were, a bunch of misfits standing in glamorous costume on an abandoned school playground, like school children to be ushered to morning homeroom. To the gymnasium of Lycée Henri-IV, one of France’s most prestigious secondary schools. Waiting for a fashion show to start. And as I looked around at the line that seemed to swerve around corners, I began to understand. For Henrik Vibskov the world was a show. A fantastical, bizarre universe where at 47, Vibskov remains a leader. And we were his sheeple.

Having produced more than thirty collections since his graduation from Central Saint Martins in 2001, the Danish multi-hyphenate is so much more than a poster boy for independent fashion. How many fingers do you have? A typical month for Vibskov includes an exhibition in Chicago, a visit to his New York flagship, England for more exhibitions, and then preparation for costumes he’s designing for the Swedish Royal Ballet. How does he do it? “I just like to explore my brain a bit,” he says with a nonchalance that can only be described as distinctly European or “North Scandi” to be exact. “Getting out on thin ice,” he calls it. 

With a whimsical boutique, selling more than 20 designers, from cult favorites like Comme des Garҫons to emerging labels like Eckhaus Latta, Vibskov has been in the business of doing it for yourself long before the notion of menswear received as much as head nod from a celebrity or discerning editor looking for the next big thing. Eons before entrepreneurialism became chic. For Vibskov, like many young brands, it was about survival. “It started many years ago when we didn’t have such big collections. We needed other products,” he says. “I like the mix of products, designers, colors, visions, and religions. Just as the world is.”

Visions that include a “Spaghetti Hand Job”, “Sticky Brick Fingers”, nude rhythmic movement, and most recently, “The Radish Arm Charm”, the designer’s Fall/Winter 2019 interpretation of futuristic farming. Of which Vogue called “amateur”. But the designer’s unique brand of eclecticism isn’t for everyone. “It’s not easy making cool commercial stuff that sells. But that’s not what I’m aiming for. I need passion,” he once told Scandinavian Traveler. “For graduation from Central Saint Martins I suggested to the teachers that I have real pigs on stage, but that was not an option,” he says, “So I made fake ones instead.” In case you haven’t gathered, Vibskov doesn’t care what you think.   


Yet since 2003, Vibskov has been a member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Mode Masculine, the official governing body of French menswear and is one of the most prolific menswear designers to come out of his beloved Denmark to date. Denmark is also where he lives with his family and where his studio is based. It’s also where Den Plettede Gris is, his café located in the center of Copenhagen, Danish for “The Spotted Pig”. 

And if you’ve also noticed, the designer has a bit of an unusual fascination with the rose toned creature. Perhaps a consequence of being raised by pig farmers. He even based a collection on his four legged friends, called “The Salami Kitchen.” And founded the P.I.G. (Practical. Intelligence. Genius) Foundation. “The aim is to focus on outstanding new talent, selected from across all creative fields, and to help them financially proceed with their work,” Vibskov says. "I had been doing a lot of talks around the world, participating in juries at schools and so on, and I decided that I wanted to start donating the fees for those activities to help foster some of the amazing creativity out there," he continues. 

In a landscape where change is the only constant, and funds always seem to be limited or non-existent for many independent brands, the Danish designer is somewhat of a unicorn. “There is always a limit,” Vibskov says, “but we always get our message across.”  


The PR girl aptly dressed in black ushered everyone to their seats. The humidity inside the gymnasium was equally as oppressive as it had been on the playground. Some guests were fanning themselves with programs. Three women in modest muslin began turning windmills. The ocean of commotion ceased. The models began to walk. Silence. The show had begun.


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WOOLRICH Outdoor Label A/W 2019 Collection Lookbook


WOOLRICH Outdoor Label A/W 2019 Collection Lookbook


 

 

WOOLRICH OUTDOOR LABEL
*coexistence of humanity and mother nature: Not a soul in sight, only the sound of falling snow fills the air


may 019

Woolrich draws inspiration from the coexistence of humanity and Mother Nature for a new outdoor wear collection. Channelling the tranquillity of falling snow amidst mountain fields of untouched nature, the Quiet Sports concept references Woolrich pieces from the 1980s and 90s, with a palette of neutral colours that blend with tones of sunrise & sunset, and also water & sky blue.

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Launching FW19, the Quiet Sports collection includes innovative garment-dyed down jackets with waterproof membranes, and technical knitwear with new insulation technology. Long coats insulate with layering options, and are finished with Woolrich’s acclaimed Chevron stitching and precise cutting and detailing. Weather-proof fabricated pants are constructed with advanced DWR (durable water repellent) technology.


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GUCCI Pre-Fall Campaign: Antiquity meets anarchy in the brand new campaign


GUCCI Pre-Fall Campaign: Antiquity meets anarchy in the brand new campaign


 

 

GUCCI pre-fall 2019
*neoclassicism


april 019

In the idyllic Selinute Archeological Park in Sicily, Jefferson Airplane’s ‘White Rabbit’ sounds, and time stops. Back in Ancient Greek times, people would gather after banquets to chat and dance by the temples.

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Portrayed through 
Glen Luchford’s
 
lens.



Between enigmatic and delirious vibrations Creative Director Alessandro Michele‘s neo-classical crew connects through love, culture and philosophy in a countercultural bubble that comes from Venice Beach. A few thousand centuries forward, Gucci now reignites that spirit for their pre-fall 019 campaign and gives the after banquet gatherings a modern twist. Alessandro Michele brings an eclectic crew of bodybuilders, punks, rollerbladers, and surfers to the ruins in order to chat about philosophy and poetry, dance together or play music. This surreal setting gives a contemporary look at the antiquity afterparty.


MORE ARCHIEVE fashion


MORE ARCHIEVE fashion