Paul Andrew Spring 2025

PAUL ANDREW
*Fusing Fashion with Radical Creativity

written SARAH ARENDTS

Titled without fanfare but pulsing with intent, the new Paul Andrew Spring 2025 campaign—a collaboration with an eclectic cohort of contemporary artists—unfolds as a declaration. The campaign lands like a manifesto for the avant-garde, a space where creativity reshapes the narrative of luxury fashion.

This is a campaign of tension and raw edges. Andrew’s collaborators embody modern disruption: Erica Ohmi’s glitch-ridden 3D textures flow into Rei Nadal’s surreal narratives. Sungi Mlengeya’s stark black-and-white portraits pull you into a quiet intensity that feels meditative. Jet Swan’s lens captures moments that resonate—charged and electric.

(c) Paul Andrew

(c) Paul Andrew

The energy is tangible. The collection speaks through footwear that transcends utility to become sculptural artifacts. Paul Andrew’s design carries an understated boldness. Translucent materials fold into shapes that feel as ephemeral as memory, while sharp cuts command attention with visceral impact. These pieces resonate without forcing clarity, allowing the viewer to linger in their intricacies.

Visual artist Jorden Steward’s work bursts with hyper-saturated tableaus of color, while Natasha Stagg’s fragmented storytelling adds depth to the mood. The campaign unfolds as a layered experience between physicality and abstraction.

Sound designer Frederic Sanchez creates sonic compositions that distort the visual narrative, scraping and humming like fractured memories. Luna Conte’s choreographed motion disrupts stillness, infusing movement with defiance.

Andrew’s campaign functions as an orbit of interconnected ideas and moments. The collaboration, with its fractured yet cohesive aesthetic, invites the audience to immerse in its density and discover its core.

Paul Andrew’s Spring 2025 campaign presents an unfiltered vision. The artists, visuals, and sound converge in a charged interplay that transcends interpretation. It is an experience that lingers, shifting something within—even if its shape remains elusive.

(c) Paul Andrew

(c) Paul Andrew

(c) Paul Andrew

campaign credits

creative director PAUL ANDREW

artists ERICA OHMI, JORDEN STEWARD, SIENNA MURDOCH, NATASHA STAGG, SUNGI MLENGEYA, JET SWAN, FREDERIC SANCHEZ, JASA MULLER, JACK LOVATT, @_UNFOLLOWING, REI NADAL, LUNA CONTE

VALENTINO Valentine’s Day 2025

Avant les Débuts with VALENTINO
*A Love Letter Rewritten

written MONICA DE LUNA

Maison Valentino’s Valentine’s Day 2025 is a riot of intimacy and rebellion. Under Alessandro Michele’s audacious creative direction, the ‘Avant les Débuts’ collection fractures traditional romance and pieces it back together into something electrifying.

Michele crafts accessories as conduits for emotion. Valentino Garavani’s signature Rockstud evolves into jagged, elongated forms—a tactile declaration of passion’s complexity. The collection hums with tension: metal edges collide with supple leather, each piece demanding touch while resisting easy understanding. These are objects that engage with desire in its purest form.

MAISON VALENTINO
Valentine´s Day Gifts 2025

The campaign imagery pulses with energy, refusing stasis. Sienna Murdoch’s kinetic work infuses an almost spectral quality—earrings captured mid-motion, belts twisting as if alive. Natasha Stagg’s layered prose threads through the visuals, creating a fragmented narrative that invites curiosity and disorientation.

Color in this collection agitates rather than soothes. Deep carmine flares against muted blush, with threads of gold drawing the viewer into unexpected depths. Michele uses these tones to evoke the sensory aftermath of unforgettable connection, each shade alive with intent.

Sound becomes another layer of storytelling. Frederic Sanchez’s auditory composition infects the campaign, with metallic whispers and creaking leather forming an intimate, voyeuristic atmosphere. These pieces don’t merely exist; they resonate, breathe, and linger.

‘Avant les Débuts’ transcends Valentine’s Day conventions, reimagining love as an experience of power and vulnerability. Alessandro Michele invites us to let go of sentimentality and embrace something sharper and more vital. Maison Valentino’s latest creation provokes, unsettles, and demands to be felt.

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also read
GUCCI’s Cinematic Call to Emotion *Where Light Finds Us

GUCCI Spring 2025

GUCCI’s Cinematic Call to Emotion
* Where Light Finds Us

written AMANDA MORTENSON

GUCCI projects intensity and emotion. Spring 2025’s campaign, “Where Light Finds Us,” seen and directed by Xavier Dolan, pulses with raw tension and vulnerability. The actors Yara Shahidi and George MacKay anchor the scenes as glowing portraits of intimacy, caught in fleeting, luminous moments.

This isn’t a linear story. Instead, light takes on a transformative role, spilling through windows, cutting across walls, and touching brief, unspoken connections. Dolan’s lens captures moments of fleeting beauty, weaving shadows and light into a poetic visual experience.

GUCCI Spring 2025 Campaign
George MacKay

Gucci’s creative director, Sabato De Sarno, introduces a collection that moves fluidly between timelessness and modernity. Silhouettes include relaxed suiting and ethereal dresses that seem to float, creating a collection that refuses categorization. The iconic Bamboo 1947 bag reappears, embodying a sense of enduring elegance and thoughtful design. Every detail—from fabrics to stitching—is imbued with a quiet intensity, ready to resonate deeply.

Color choices feel deliberate, with soft blues and creams balanced by moments of vibrant citron and crimson. This intentional palette injects energy and emotional depth into the collection, offering a dynamic interplay of moods.

The campaign’s imagery thrives on ambiguity. Dolan’s still frames explore emotions through gestures and glances: hands brushing over fabric, light tracing a silhouette, or a gaze that holds untold stories. The camera lingers, urging viewers to delve deeper into its layers of meaning.

“Where Light Finds Us” challenges conventions and embraces an intimate, reflective tone. It invites the audience to sit with its layered beauty and absorb its quiet, human depth. Gucci’s Spring 2025 campaign transcends fashion, presenting a vision of raw emotion and light’s ability to reveal truth.

watch campaign film
GUCCI Spring 2025

campaign credits

GUCCI creative director SABATO DE SARNO
art director RICCARDO ZANOLA
seen + directed XAVIER DOLAN
models YARA SHAHIDI + GEORGE MACKAY
stylist FRANCESCA BURNS
hair JAWARA
makeup AARON DE MEY

GUCCI Spring 2025 Campaign
George MacKay

On x FKA twigs

From Form to Function with On
* The Body Is Art Training Campaign

written AMANDA MORTENSON

On teams up with the visionary FKA twigs to unveil The Body Is Art, Part II, the centerpiece of its Spring/Summer 25 Training Collection, presenting training as an evocative, immersive act of self-expression and artistry.

Under the creative direction of FKA twigs and through Jordan Hemingway’s lens, the campaign pulses with energy inside a raw, industrial London warehouse. Movement emerges as a powerful form of expression, channeling creativity and identity.

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

With Paralympic athlete Léa Bayekula, IFBB Pro bodybuilder Michelle Mensah, and dancer Nana Yaa, the visuals honor strength and individuality. Each participant embodies the vision of movement as art—a dynamic exploration of purpose and form.

“I’m drawn to bodies shaped by purpose, by life,” twigs reflects. “In The Body Is Art, Part II, strength becomes art. It’s about redefining beauty through function and celebrating what the body can do.” Her words resonate across the collection, which blends technical precision with a minimalist aesthetic to redefine training apparel.

On’s SS25 Training Collection delivers performance-driven designs with a striking edge. The campaign’s highlighted looks — from the streamlined Studio Cut Out Crop and Train Tights Short to the dynamic Train 2-in-1 Crop paired with Train Shorts — are engineered for freedom and resilience. Twigs herself embodies this duality, wearing pieces that flow seamlessly from performance to expression. Completing the aesthetic are On’s signature sneakers, including the versatile Cloudnova X and high-performance Cloud X 4. The wider SS25 line reflects On’s commitment to innovation and inclusivity. From high-intensity staples like the Train-T and Train Shorts to the ultra-soft Studio line tailored for yoga and barre, the collection addresses diverse movement needs while maintaining a sleek, modern look. It’s sportswear that not only adapts to the body but elevates it, making every movement an act of creativity.

watch campaign film
On x FKA twigs Present The Body Is Art, Part II Spring/Summer 2025

campaign credits

creative direction FKA twigs
seen Jordan Hemingway
film Robert Richardson
set design Jabez Bartlett
movement direction Zoï Tatopoulos
styling Georgia Pendlebury
mair Louis Souvestre
make up Tilda Mace

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

On x FKA twigs
The Body Is Art, Part II

On’s global momentum gains another layer with The Body Is Art, Part II, an expression of its philosophy: movement as a profound force of creativity. Partnering with FKA twigs, the brand shapes training into a multidimensional exploration, one that unites body and soul in dynamics.

PITTI UOMO 107 - 2025

Boys on Fire
*PITTI UOMO 107

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The winter edition of Pitti Uomo will be held at Florence's Fortezza da Basso from January 14 to 17, 2025. During these days, Fall/Winter 2025 collections from almost 790 brands—of which 45% are international—will showcase the new frontiers of menswear.

Menswear lovers, rejoice! PITTI Uomo is a journey into the world of menswear and its ongoing evolution, a stage for showcasing new ideas, trends, and collaborative projects through an exhibition path divided into five sections (Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out), and a curated calendar of special events, offering a comprehensive look at the many facets of men’s fashion.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

This season will feature two guest designers: Satoshi Kuwata, who has chosen Florence for the first runway show of his brand Setchu, and MM6 Maison Margiela, which has created an exclusive menswear collection for Pitti Uomo. Many other new projects will be presented at the Fortezza, also through special connections with the world of art and photography, from established names to the most innovative research-driven brands, not to mention the lifestyle segment, which is becoming increasingly influential.

This January, Pitti Immagine's winter shows embrace fire as a unifying element to capture the essence and spirit of the upcoming season. FIRE is the theme behind the new ad campaigns for Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo, and Pitti Filati, each uniquely tailored to reflect the character of each event under the creative direction of Angelo Figus, with graphic editing by Alessandro Gori. FIRE will also inspire the design setup at the Fortezza da Basso, curated by Alessandro Moradei.

“It's a recognition of the generative power of this primal element,” says Agostino Poletto, General Director of Pitti Immagine. “Fire brings people together, warming both body and soul, drawing attention and pointing the way. It serves to entertain, amaze, inspire, melt old ideas and habits, and forge new ones—just like fashion does. We'll spark excitement, ignite desires, and focus on challenges and solutions, just as Pitti Uomo always does.”

The Fortezza da Basso, like a grand department store, welcomes Pitti Uomo exhibitors and offers visitors a curated mix of brands and styles that meet market demands. The five sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out – are confirmed, showcasing the Fall/Winter 2025 collections: from classic to casual, including innovative and outdoor wear. This edition also introduces an exciting new addition: Knees Up Running Space @ Pitti Uomo 107.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

The evolution of classic style in its most refined and modern expression. From iconic Made in Italy brands to the pinnacle of international tailoring, this is a journey through the forms and materials of the classic wardrobe, always in touch with the contemporary. The destination: impeccable outfits and formal pieces made to be lived in now, yet crafted to last. A style for today’s gentleman and those of the past, defined by the rhythm of timeless elegance.

HEIGS Fall/Winter 2024 *Campaign

HEIGS Fall/Winter 2024 Campaign
*A Manifesto in Craft

written Sarah Arendts

The Alpine air holds secrets, and HEIGS knows how to listen. Their Fall/Winter 2024 campaign, “CODE SWISS,” takes its cues from the Aletsch Arena, a raw expanse of ice and earth. It’s a grounding force for the brand’s aesthetic—clean, intentional, and rooted.

Founded in 2021 by Johanna van der Drift and Daan van Luijn, HEIGS operates at the intersection of design and craft. Each piece emerges from 153 steps of haute maroquinerie, performed by a single artisan in France. The process unfolds with an attention to detail that reveals itself in every curve of leather and every precisely stitched seam.

HEIGS FW24 Campaign
(c) shot by Yuma Greco

The collection’s defining features include interchangeable linings, crafted from materials like antique Toile de Jouy or upcycled ballet fabrics. The use of full-grain “Safari” calfskin ensures that the bags mature over time, taking on a tactile richness that invites interaction. This season’s silhouettes, from “En Suisse” to “Petit Suisse,” reflect a commitment to simplicity without losing depth. For the “CODE SWISS” campaign, HEIGS chose the Aletsch Arena as its setting—a site where nature’s power and precision coexist. The location mirrors the ethos behind the designs, offering a visual narrative that feels timeless yet forward-thinking.

2025 marks a significant evolution for the brand as HEIGS prepares to launch its first outerwear collection. These pieces are being designed with the same philosophy that informs their handbags: deliberate, versatile, and crafted to leave a lasting impression.

HEIGS’ work resonates because it prioritizes material integrity and process over fleeting trends. The designs speak a language of restraint, where every element has purpose and intention. With a focus on expanding their global presence, HEIGS creates collections that connect to specific places while maintaining universal appeal.

“CODE SWISS” captures HEIGS’ essence—precision honed in the Alps and a craft philosophy that’s anything but ordinary. Each piece pulses with intent, stripping design back to its raw, tactile core. Beyond function, there’s a pull, a resonance that feels permanent, grounding, like the whisper of the mountains it’s born from.

Frank Gehry x Louis Vuitton *Art Basel 2024

Floating Vision with Louis Vuitton
Frank Gehry’s Architectural Dream at Art Basel

written Monica de Luna

Grand Palais, Art Basel Paris 2024—Louis Vuitton enters the scene with a bold vision that fuses fashion, art, and architecture into something entirely new.

Frank Gehry’s latest creation hovers above the space like an otherworldly presence, pushing past the expected and inviting us into a surreal, experimental universe. This is an awakening—a dynamic collision of creative forces that demands attention.

Perched on the Balcon d'Honneur, Gehry’s creations take command, embodying a raw force of nature. A colossal white fish hovers above the staircase, ghostly and alive with energy, fusing strength and fragility in a way that reflects Gehry’s signature approach.

The sculpture speaks to his relentless exploration of boundaries, where aerodynamics and chaotic elegance seamlessly converge, shifting our perception of space, function, and beauty into a realm that feels untouchable.

At the core of the exhibition is Louis Vuitton’s audacious vision, a bold move that embraces Gehry’s boundary-pushing creativity. Since 1854, Vuitton has thrived on fearless experimentation, and here they let Gehry fully unleash his architectural prowess.

His designs for the Capucines Mini Blossom and MM Concrete Pockets radiate with the same energy as his monumental structures. These bags transcend fashion, merging leather, glass, and metal into sculptural forms that carry the essence of Gehry’s architectural DNA.

Capucines BB Twisted Tower
seen (c) Philippe Lacombe

Capucines Mini Blossom
seen (c) Philippe Lacombe

Gehry’s Twisted Box is the exhibit’s undeniable centerpiece. The trunk, a Louis Vuitton icon, undergoes a radical transformation. Every corner, every curve defies logic, as if the object itself has been stretched, fractured, and reassembled with an electrifying tension. Yet somehow, amidst the chaos, there’s a harmonious balance—an unexpected unity within the deconstruction.

This tension is the essence of Gehry’s work with Louis Vuitton. His bags transcend function, embodying the spirit of his most legendary structures. The BB Analog pulls directly from the IAC Building in New York, while the MM Floating Fish bag draws inspiration from Gehry’s signature scales, intricately embedded into leather. His architectural language seamlessly flows into the world of high fashion, turning each piece into a wearable masterpiece. In this exhibition traditional craftsmanship meets experimental design, immersing viewers and wearers in a powerful experience.

Architectural sketch
(c) Frank Gehry

seen (c) Yong Joon Choi

Frank Gehry’s work with Louis Vuitton reshapes the concept of luxury itself. At Art Basel Paris 2024, the vision is unapologetically avant-garde and unsettling. Louis Vuitton and Gehry challenge conventions, leaving us curious for what follows.

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(c) Louis Vuitton & Frank Gehry for Art Basel 2024

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Shao New York

.new collection
Shao New York: For the Rebel in a Suit
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Shao New York's sophomore collection is a cut above.

Shao New York designer, Shao Yang is loosening up the seams of tradition. In fact, nothing about her calculated ascension in fashion is traditional at all, except for her clothing, sort of. (More on that later).

Having wrapped her second show (her first made headlines on the roof of Anna Delvey’s apartment), it’s clear that the emerging label is more than just hype. She proved that Wednesday evening, as she closed out the Spring/Summer 2025 season of New York Fashion Week with a show that her publicist, Kelly Cutrone, proudly coined over a microphone before it began, “from rooftop to runway.”    

The actual title is Class of 98: Rebellion Remastered. The program was printed on thick stock paper, and it felt and read like a cleverly written manifesto rather than show notes. However, Yang’s point of view is clearly laser focused. Yang described the collection as an antidote to the Instagram nostalgia social media is currently trapped in and more as a tribute to old-school teen angst before we spent more time curating our brand image on our phones than spending it at the park or driving around town with our friends. A simpler time, one could argue.

What’s not up for debate—Shao New York’s mastery of tailoring. She also owns another business, The Tailory, which designs bespoke suiting aimed at the LGBTQIA+ community, probably one if not the first of its kind. The thirty-five look collection—rooted in leather, denim, and cashmere, also has some really impressive trompe l’oeil shirting because as Yao states in the program, “let’s face it, the ’90s were all about illusion”. Of course, there was a lot of statement suiting, too. Call it a redux of the boss bitch energy archetype Donna Karan created in the 80s but bejeweled.

While inspired by the youth culture of the '90s, these were the kind of clothes that make you want to grow up fast. The kind of clothes a young Carrie Bradshaw might wear on a night out with Big, perhaps, as he rolls down the window of his town car, takes one last look at her and says, “Abso-fucking-lutely.”

also read Private Policy at Work *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) SHAO New York seen by Randy Brooke, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Private Policy

.new collection
Private Policy at Work
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

This season Private Policy tries to tackle AI and corporate oppression with a pop culture twist.

Everyone knows Theodore Shapiro’s now infamous compositions from the fashion classic, The Devil Wears Prada and can’t help but feel a certain wide-eyed excitement when they hear it. That’s probably precisely why it was playing over the speakers at The Altman Building before the Private Policy show on Wednesday, and certainly one of the reasons for the collection’s title, The Devil Is Here.

It was also one of many inspirations for the brand’s most recent collection. Iconic easter eggs like the famous Miranda Priestly line, “Everybody wants to be us,” was printed across a polo, and another line, “Florals, for spring?” inspired the brand’s signature checker prints to be updated with, you guessed it, florals.

However, the Private Policy designers, Haoran Li and Siying Qu’s sole intention was not to take us on a trip down memory lane, but to try to tackle a daunting conversation, one that has caused widespread fear in the heart of many creatives, AI. Where is it going? How will it impact us? Whether that question was answered was debatable, but it segued into another fear, going to the office.

The show opened with two employees clocking in, the daily rhythm most of us are slaves to and have dreaded even more post-pandemic, complete with disembodied ringing phones, computer clacking, Mac desktops, and even cubicles where the two performers pretended to type away as models burst through the seemingly corporate drudgery, key fobs dangled from pockets with empty plastic ID sleeves, work shirts were styled with combo jersey shorts and mini-skirts and even glittering hot pants made an appearance at the office. For context, this was a fashion office.

According to the program, the takeaway is this, “Perhaps what today’s generation truly seeks is not a return to the rigid hierarchies of Y2K corporate life, but the unapologetic ambition and dream-big energy of the Y2K era, reimagined for a future that prioritizes creativity and self-expression over outdated notions of obedience and submission.”

Then suddenly the performers promptly strutted down and off the runway. I guess it’s time to clock out.

also read Shao New York: For the Rebel in Suit *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) Private Policy New York seen by Adriana Kaegi / NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

MFW - WHITE Milano 2024

WHITE Milano 2024
*A New Chapter in Contemporary Fashion

written Sarah Arendts

As Milan Fashion Week approaches, all eyes are on WHITE Milano, the event that has become a global hub for showcasing cutting-edge women’s prêt-à-porter fashion.

Running from September 19 to 22, WHITE Milano returns with more than 300 brands, pushing the boundaries of style, sustainability, and innovation. Hosted at iconic venues Superstudio Più and BASE Ex-Ansaldo, the event promises a potent mix of established labels and rising stars ready to shape the future of fashion.

WHITE MILANO 2024
MIAORAN STUDIO

WHITE MILANO 2024
THE WHITE RAVEN

The buzz around this year’s WHITE edition is electrifying, thanks to its carefully curated lineup of designers who challenge conventional norms. The show’s emphasis on sustainability and originality sets a new benchmark for contemporary fashion. Alessia Cappello, Milan’s Councilor for Economic Development and Labor Policies, underscores the significance of this moment: "Fashion is Milan’s asset. WHITE continues to be a powerful force in driving forward employment and reputation for the city, with a clear focus on future-forward trends and innovative solutions."

WHITE’s famous "Secret Rooms" are back, spotlighting emerging designers who have been carefully handpicked for their vision and bold approach. This season, talents like YANGKEHAN, MIAORAN, and PROTOTYPE: AM are at the forefront, each transforming traditional craftsmanship into something new and daring.

Secret Rooms Where Emerging Talents Shine

WHITE MILANO 2024
PROTOTYPE: AM

YANGKEHAN blends classic oriental aesthetics with a fresh, contemporary twist, offering intricate handmade garments that radiate feminine power. Meanwhile, MIAORAN’s SS25 collection, "La Tempesta," channels nature’s raw elements through macramé techniques and sustainable practices. From stormy seas to delicate sands, MIAORAN’s vision of genderless clothing marks a new frontier in fashion’s fluidity.

Berlin-based PROTOTYPE: AM flips the script on office wear with its "OUT OF OFFICE" collection, playfully subverting corporate dress codes with a palette dominated by olive green and striking silhouettes.

WHITE’s Loft and Basement spaces have long been where boundary-pushing collections find their home. This year is no different. South African designers—like FIKILE SOKHULU and GOOD FRIDAY—bring a global perspective to the Loft, combining craftsmanship with striking feminine elegance. On the other hand, the Basement is reserved for those pushing the limits of avant-garde design. VANDERWILT’s leather sculptures and VUSCICHÈ’s botany-inspired creations are testament to the growing demand for sustainable, circular fashion practices that still feel luxe and tactile.

WHITE MILANO 2024
CAVIA

WHITE MILANO 2024
YID'PHROGMA

WHITE MILANO 2024
YID'PHROGMA

With ExpoWHITE, the boundaries of fashion are extended far beyond Italy. This season, WHITE welcomes emerging designers from South Korea, Latin America, and Armenia. The global scope is undeniable, with designers like MAN.G from Korea and VERDI from Colombia showcasing collections that merge local heritage with global appeal.

In a major first, WHITE also partners with Istituto Marangoni for the debut edition of the “I’M TALENT SHOWROOM,” spotlighting the institute’s most promising alumni. This collaboration highlights WHITE’s commitment to nurturing the next generation of designers, offering a platform for young creatives like Victoria Jenkins of UNHIDDEN and Jun Zhou of PRONOUNCE to connect with international buyers and fashion industry heavyweights.

ExpoWHITE
A Global Stage for Emerging Markets

WHITE is a cultural platform where fashion, music, and business intersect. With a diverse of events, WHITE solidifies its role in shaping industry trends and future outlooks. WHITE Milano 2024 os going to reflect fashion’s evolving landscape, driving sustainability, creativity, and innovation, and influencing the future of the industry.

credit all images
(c) WHITE MIlano, 2024 and Brands

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Aknvas

.new collection
Aknvas With a View
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Office chic, camp, and fluidity were the themes at Aknvas.

From the 37th floor of Tapestry at 10 Hudson Yards, Danish designer Christian Juul Nielsen, the designer behind Aknvas (a Danish play on “canvas”) proved that he knows all about strong points of view with an impressive resume that spans stints at John Galliano for Dior to Oscar de la Renta, Nielsen’s work under the tutelage of fashion’s modern masters gives him major bragging rights. However, Aknvas doesn’t promise the same kind of pointed perfection of his predecessors but something much more inviting—freedom.

The freedom lies not just in the designers’ clothes but the people wearing them. The type of genderless and youthful fluidity that acts as an honest reflection of the mirepoix of talent working in the industry and those inspired by it. These clothes are pretty but not delicate, tough but not mean, these clothes are for everyone.

The official title of the collection was Nordic Midsummer Camp, and Aknvas inventive takes on denim and his liberal use of floral appliques, his vegan leather peplum jackets, and shimmering sequin ensembles seemed loud enough to make this a camp of dreams and speaking of the office, Nielsen’s pinstripe shirt dress and pinstripe padded shoulder cropped shirt with matching skirt will definitely fight off any Sunday scaries, indeed. Gen Z eat your heart out.

There is also great skill in choosing the right venue for your show, as is the right fabric for a collection, and no one would argue an office building might not be the most summery choice, especially when competing against a panoramic backdrop of the Manhattan skyline. Think about it: there is something inherently imposing. The sharp cornered edges, the machine-cut glass, the sound the ground makes when you tiptoe down the lacquered lobby, yet Nielsen’s collection shone through like I imagine it always does.

also read Bad Binch Tong Tong Goes to Church (and Space) *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) Aknvas, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

NYFW *Spring/Summer 2025 Bad Binch Tong Tong

.new collection
Bad Binch Tong Tong Goes to Church (and Space)
*NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

written Malcolm Thomas

Aliens, divinity, and love were at the heart of Bad Binch Tong Tong’s latest collection.

Like a great roll of spandex, the crowd stretched outside St. Bartholomew’s Church and around the corner of 325 Park Avenue on a balmy Saturday afternoon. At first glance, a passerby might be more curious as to how a church had managed to attract such an unlikely crowd and such blatant attention from the public in a city that has quite literally seen it all, that was until Bad Binch Tong Tong took over one of Manhattan’s most exclusive zip codes for a fashion show, of course. Let me set the scene: the front steps of the church were filled with news cameras and paparazzi; the guests: the famous and the infamous, including America’s favorite bad girl, Anna Delvey (who was working the door) and the ringleader responsible for gathering up such a double-take-worthy group of fashion counter culturists no other than the Queen of New York PR, Kelly Cutrone. In short, a time would not only be had but ordained.

Now let’s talk about the show because the Forbes 30 under 30 designer, Terrence Zhou, whose label’s moniker is a combination of a childhood nickname and his birth name, did not only give us a collection, he gave us a show! Much like the designer’s fashion persona that lives somewhere between satire and mad genius, his Spring/Summer 2025 collection, Whisper Across Dimensions was unequivocally out of this world.

Inspired by aliens, think The Day The Earth Stood Still meets The Fifth Element, Zhou imagined a reality where aliens finally make contact with the earth, culminating into a cautious trek, the alien’s shimmering air membranes protecting them from the harshness of our world communicated through what can only be described as pumpkin-shaped pods turned into sculptural improbabilities in the many shapes and sizes of sci-fi dresses and even wearable flowers.

Told through music composed by Katie Jenkins that belonged in a blockbuster epic and led by dancers choreographed by Stefanie Nelson, the Parsons and Central Saint Martins alum ended his Iliad with a dance of his own, unsurprisingly with fabric, before inviting the cast onto the stage which erupted the audience into applause and then to their feet as they rushed for a second chance to marvel at the collection up close.

I went into Bad Binch Tong Tong with no expectations but was thrilled to be allowed to escape the worries and fears of these times, if even just for a moment; to sum it up best, there was one particular line from the program that I found quite poignant. It reads, “The show is not just a display of fashion but a sacred communion, a place where we can feel the presence of higher beings, where the dimensions overlap, and where love is the only truth that matters.”

also read Aknvas With a View *NYFW Spring/Summer 2025

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(c) Bad Binch Tong Tong, NYFW 2025 - Spring/Summer 2025

Calvin Klein x Alexander Skarsgård

.new collection
Calvin Klein Fall 2024 Campaign
with Alexander Skarsgård

written Amanda Mortenson

Calvin Klein’s Fall 2024 menswear campaign is a vibe—an unapologetic nod to the brand’s DNA, but sharper, bolder, and anchored by none other than Alexander Skarsgård.

At the heart of Calvin Klein’s Fall 2024 campaign lies Calvin Klein Studio—a collection that takes minimalism and levels it up with luxe materials and razor-sharp cuts. Think slim suiting, smooth outerwear, and Alexander Skarsgård’s effortless swagger, all wrapped in a vibe that screams quiet power. It’s sleek, it’s modern, and it’s unmistakably Calvin.

The visuals drip with a kind of sophisticated ease, where the fabrics do the talking—clean lines, rich textures, and a no-fuss approach to style that feels at home anywhere, from city streets to intimate late-night gatherings. Calvin Klein is owning the dawn-to-dusk vibe, and Skarsgård is the man to take us there.

(c) Calvin Klein with Alexander Skarsgard
Directed and seen by Mert Alas
Styled by Emmanuelle Alt

Calvin Klein Studio flips the script on minimalism, injecting it with fresh energy through high-end materials like soft wools and crisp cottons. It’s understated, but far from simple—this is about craftsmanship and detail, the kind you can feel. Skarsgård moves through it all with his signature nonchalance. He makes every piece look like it was made for Mr. Skarsgård!

Skarsgård and CK are a match made in minimalist heaven—two icons of understated masculinity, cool without even trying.

“It felt sophisticated and sleek, but still very relaxed and playful,”

Alexander Skarsgård

(c) Calvin Klein

(c) Calvin Klein

Bottega Veneta - A Desert Dreamscape

.new campaign
Bottega Veneta Winter 24
*Alec Soth Shoots Ad Campaign in the Desert Wilds

written Monica de Luna

Bottega Veneta’s Winter 2024 campaign lands in the American West with an impact that feels strange and inevitable. Creative Director Matthieu Blazy teams up with photographer Alec Soth to create a visual dialogue between the desert’s stark beauty and the brand’s vision of luxury.

Captured in Nevada and Utah, locations notorious for UFO sightings, the campaign blends the eerie with the elegant. Models Mariacarla Boscono, Zayna Cisse, Imaan Hammam, and others inhabit the cloths, merging with the barren landscape like they belong there, yet stand out as otherworldly beings.

Blazy’s designs—feather-light skirts and imposing, sculptural coats—create a powerful contrast against the desert’s raw backdrop. They are protective, almost armor-like, yet fluid, interacting with the environment in a way that feels at once familiar and alien.

Alec Soth’s photography leans into this tension, capturing every detail with a clarity that makes the desert’s rough textures feel palpable. The intertwined craftsmanship of Bottega Veneta’s signature intrecciato accessories echoes the twisted resilience of desert flora. These elements—hardy yet intricate—ground the campaign in a tactile reality, even as it flirts with the supernatural.

Rahim Fortune’s accompanying film amplifies the campaign’s mood of quiet anticipation. Sweeping shots of the desert give way to closeups of models moving through the landscape with a sense of purpose, as though on the brink of a revelation. The soundtrack by Le Motel adds to the suspense, mixing ambient sounds of crackling fire and wind with an electronic hum that feels like a signal from beyond. The film creates a sense of impending discovery, of something hidden just out of sight.

Thew new Fall 2024 ad campaign is a stark reminder of Bottega Veneta’s refusal to conform to digital noise. Blazy and Soth have crafted a narrative that commands attention, drawing the viewer into a world where the line between reality and the unknown blurs. It’s a visual exploration of craft, design, and environment, where each element enhances the other. The visuals unfold in the endless expanse of the desert, challenging you to see beyond the horizon.

Hair
Duffy

Makeup
Dame Pat McGrath

Casting Director
Anita Bitton

Music
Le Motel

Bottega Veneta Creative Director
Matthieu Blazy

Photographer
Alec Soth

Film Director
Rahim Fortune

Location
Utah and Nevada

all content (c) Bottega Veneta 2024

Talents + Models
Mariacarla Boscono, Zayna Cisse, Luke Clod, Walid Fiher, Imaan Hammam, Liz Kennedy, Hoyong Kim, Hejia Li, Mamuor Majeng, Rolf Schrader, Hedi Ben Tekaya & Penelope Ternes

Marni Fall 2024 Ad Campaign

.new campaign
Marni Fall 2024 Vol. 1 Ad Campaign
seen by Colin Dodgson

written Amanda Mortenson

Marni’s Fall 2024 Ad Campaign, seen through the raw and unfiltered eye of Colin Dodgson, rips away the gloss to reveal a gritty, urban narrative that pulses with life. The first volume ditches the sanitized perfection of high fashion, plunging straight into the city's core, where every crack and crease tells a story.

Dodgson’s lens frames a series of intimate portraits that strip back the layers, exposing the beauty found in the imperfect, the unpolished, and the unapologetically real.

Framed by the decaying beauty of industrial landscapes, models Chiara Pino, Jessica Bagnall, Ghali, and Ileana embody a raw, eclectic style that feels both instinctive and intentional. The rusted scaffolding and crumbling walls become part of the narrative, reflecting the textured layers and warm neutral tones of Marni’s Fall 2024 collection. Here, the environment and clothing meld into a seamless dialogue of urban resilience.

Marni’s Fall 2024 collection rides the edge of contrast, where grunge-fueled rebellion collides head-on with sharp, tailored sophistication. Oversized knits collide with sharp blazers, while distressed trousers find unexpected harmony with polished leather shoes. This dynamic interplay of styles pulses at the core of the campaign, capturing the chaotic yet undeniably stylish essence of modern urban life—where messiness and complexity are embraced as hallmarks of true style.

A striking element is the hand-painted logo, a red cursive scrawl that’s both intimate and deliberately imperfect.

This touch, much like the campaign itself, shuns the overly polished in favor of raw authenticity, injecting a layer of depth and individuality into every frame.
Dodgson’s lens captures a cinematic world where the characters feel vividly real. These models are the living, breathing essence of Marni—dreamers, rebels, and artists who walk the line between society’s edges with quiet defiance.

Marni’s Fall 2024 campaign makes imperfection its signature. It’s a daring tribute to the raw, the unfiltered, and the unapologetically real. Marni proves that true style transcends fabric—it's about the stories woven into every thread.

all images (c) Marni, 2024

creative direction Francesco Risso
art director Sergio Cattivelli
seen Colin Dodgson
styled Carlos Nazario
talents Chiara Pino + Jessica Bagnall + Ghali + Ileana

Calvin Klein - CK One Essence

*New Campaign
Calvin Klein
CK One Essence

written Amanda Mortenson

Calvin Klein's summer 2024 Ad Campaign, "CK One Essence," is a hypnotic exploration of modern sensuality and timeless allure.

With visionary direction by Ben Keren and the evocative eye of Alasdair McLellan, the new campaign reshapes the CK One legacy, making a fierce declaration for the new era. Alasdair McLellan’s photographic brilliance dazzles as he assembles an eclectic ensemble featuring Abby Champion, Blesnya Minher, Cheikh Dia, Finley Prentice, Kit Butler, Mathilda Gvarliani, Noor Mutsaers, Troy Untalan, and Yenni Schwan. Each model pulses with the campaign's core mantra: intensity for all.

creative direction BEN KEREN
seen ALASDAIR MCLELLAN
styled CAMILLA NICKERSON
casting direction MARK FOLTZ

In a nostalgic nod to the revolutionary 1994 CK One launch, the campaign embraces the minimalist aesthetic that cemented its place as a cultural icon. McLellan, however, breathes new life into this iteration, imbuing it with heightened intimacy and vibrancy. The iconic black-and-white palette remains, but the compositions are tighter, gazes more piercing, and movements more fluid, mirroring a deeper connection to the fragrance's intensified essence.

The genius choice of New Order’s "Blue Monday" as the soundtrack ties the campaign to a musical legacy that spans generations. Thanks to this!
Its pulsating beats and haunting vocals provide the perfect backdrop to the dynamic visuals, amplifying the campaign's sense of urgency and passion.

The models, adorned in Calvin Klein's iconic minimalist threads, move and interact in a choreography that blurs the boundaries between dance and intimacy. Each frame exudes raw emotion and effortless cool, illustrating a world where gender fluidity and personal expression are celebrated.

models
ABBY CHAMPION + BLESNYA MINGER + CHEIKH DIA + FINLEY PRENTICE + KIT BUTLER + MATHILDA GVARLIANI + NOOR MUTSAERS + TROY UNTALAN + YENNI SCHWAN

watch campaign film

The brilliance of this campaign lies in its deft balance of staying true to the original CK One ethos while pushing the envelope to reflect contemporary sensibilities. The fragrance, with its increased concentration, promises a deeper sensory experience, much like the campaign's visuals. It’s a symphony of scent and sight, resonating with the intensity and clarity of modern identity.

"CK One Essence" transcends being just a fragrance campaign, it speaks to a generation that cherishes authenticity, inclusivity, and the power of personal connection. With Ben Keren's creative direction and Alasdair McLellan's sharp eye, Calvin Klein has woven a narrative that is timeless and urgently relevant.

Trends may fade, but the CK One Essence campaign exemplifies the lasting impact of reimagining iconic moments with a minimalist approach. Calvin Klein's latest campaign underscores the brand's commitment to enduring style, demonstrating that true essence and a refined vision have a profound effect beyond fleeting trends.

(c) Calvin Klein seen by Alasdair McLellan

Ferragamo in Florence 2024 Campaign

.new campaign
Ferragamo in Florence
2024 Ad Campaign by Juergen Teller

written Adriana Lang

Ferragamo’s Fall 2024 campaign "Ferragamo in Florence," presents a blend of historical and contemporary elements, orchestrated by Creative Director Ferdinando Verderi and seen by Juergen Teller.

The new campaign situates Ferragamo’s designs within the rich cultural context of Florence, drawing on the city’s iconic art and architecture.

A notable feature of the campaign is the inclusion of Peter Saville, the graphic designer responsible for Ferragamo’s new logo. Photographed at the Galleria Romanelli, Saville stands amidst neo-Hellenistic sculptures, creating a visual dialogue between the historical art forms and the modernity the designer represents. This comparison highlights the ongoing relevance of classical artistry in contemporary fashion and culture.

The campaign also features models Lina Zhang, Raquel Zimmerman, Yasmine Warsame, and Tim Schuhmacher. Each portrait is set against significant Florentine backdrops, from grand architectural structures to intimate gallery spaces.

(c) Ferragamo

(c) Ferragamo
Peter Saville, Galleria Romanelli

These settings enhance the narrative of Florence as a hub of artistic heritage and modern creativity, emphasizing the continuity between past and present.

Verderi’s creative direction focuses on capturing the essence of Florence through the lens of Juergen Teller. The clothing designs reflect Ferragamo’s signature elegance while integrating elements that resonate with Florence’s artistic legacy, honoring its own historical roots.

Teller’s photographic style, known for its candid and raw quality, brings an unfiltered perspective to the campaign. His images capture the natural beauty of the models and the settings, avoiding excessive stylization.

(c) Ferragamo
Yasmine Warsame, Piazza S.ta Trinita

(c) Ferragamo
Lina Zhang, Caffè Rivoire

(c) Ferragamo
Galleria Romanelli

McQueen AW24 Campaign by Seán McGirr

.new campaign
McQueen AW24
Urban Primal by Seán McGirr

written Alban E. Smajli

McQueen's Autum/Winter 2024 new ad campaign unleashes an untamed narrative, celebrating the visceral essence of East London's youth.

Under the new creative direction of Seán McGirr, the collection embodies raw energy and eclecticism, pulling no punches in its representation of the city's primal and poetic heartbeat.

“McQueen is a London-born brand and has always represented an idea of London that I’m deeply attached to. It has a very visceral kind of energy, driven by the eclectic cast of characters you see here. I want to bring that energy to life with the rigour and raw feeling that makes the city’s air hum, leaning deep into its tensions — something that feels poetic and primal; powerful and real. Something that comes from people. I want to bring light to that.”

— Seán McGirr, London, 10th July 2024
Creative Director at McQueen

McQueen AW24 Ad Campaign

creative direction SEÀN McGIRR
art direction CHRISTOPHER SIMMONDS
seen GLEN LOUCHFORD
styled MARIE CHAIX

(c) McQueen

(c) McQueen

Shot by Glen Luchford and styled by Marie Chaix, the campaign is a fierce tribute to London's renegade spirit. Each frame captures the raw essence of East London's urban nomads, the diverse souls navigating concrete jungles and sprawling streets in search of primal pleasures. McGirr's vision ignites with raw textures, twisted silhouettes, and taut designs that pulse with power and authenticity.

From the shattered jet-stone embroidery on sleek black wool mohair suits to the tufted denim and oxblood leather, each piece is crafted for those who embrace instinctual living. The hard metal T-bar buckle, a recurring motif, is both functional and symbolic, capturing the duality of restraint and rebellion on London's streets. This detail graces everything from the tightly strapped Sling bag to the trailing tendrils of the Fringe loafer, perfectly balancing swaddling comfort with urban resilience.

The tactile allure of the collection is unmistakable. McGirr's use of rich materials like natural shearling, honey shearling seams, and black leather studded bomber jackets offer a sensuous pleasure that clashes beautifully with the hardened fragments of city life. It's a wardrobe for the modern urbanite, one who navigates the vagaries of London with a style that is both primal and poetic.

McGirr, a Central Saint Martins alum and former Head of Ready-to-Wear at JW Anderson, injects a fierce new energy into McQueen. His debut collection is a love letter to London, a city throbbing with raw, visceral energy—an ideal canvas for a brand synonymous with subversive strength and untamed power.

watch campaign film
AW 2024

(c) McQueen

(c) McQueen

The new McQueen AW24 collection transcends mere clothing, delving into the essence of character. Featuring an eclectic lineup including Awwal Adeoti, Libby Bennett, and Nyajouk Gatdet, each figure embodies McQueen’s audacious spirit. From the smashed chandelier and bicycle reflector embroidery on a tulle dress to exaggerated padded collars and sleek fedoras, every look narrates a tale of urban grit and raw glamour.

McQueen’s Autumn/Winter 2024 campaign is a potent reminder that true style is born from the streets, from the eclectic souls who wear their individuality like armor. With Seán McGirr at the helm, McQueen’s legacy of fierce, unapologetic fashion not only endures but evolves.

Lucca *Tuscany’s Tasteful Tradition

Fashion Weekend
LUCCA 2024
Tuscany’s Tasteful Tradition

written Chidozie Obasi

Tuscany is a treasure-trove of ancient culture: from art to craftsmanship, it beholds a quiet potency that has developed through centuries of history.

Lucca Fashion Weekend is one such example: the format created a dynamic encounter between art and the city's historic spaces, tracing new and innovative exploratory paths with the aim of enhancing the local territory and artisanal know-how.

Bottega Bernard

LUCCA Fashion Weekend 2024
Bottega Bernard

Craft tradition and new contemporary visions were the lanes that carried the event along, becoming crossroads and meeting points between generations. A two-day program full of appointments saw a calendar of high artistic and cultural value: installations, talks, exhibitions and presentations were hosted in the most prestigious historical locations.

Three pillars added a firm structure to the event, united by innovation and sustainability: firstly, LFW End was container of presentations for young independent brands, ateliers and local and national craft realities, and talks with independent magazines; LFW Exp, was intended for exhibitions and installations spread among the city’s streets, art and urban fabric in privileged conversation; Lastly, LFW Off promoted initiatives and events by the commercial activities, along the main shopping streets will animate the city streets with presentations and extraordinary openings.

Among the things worthy of note in the first section was: Sotterranea, an exhibition project that saw the city's basement hosting independent brands and prestigious craft realities.

Among the independent brands, once could have found: Damiano Marini, Invaerso, Leight Studio, Maison Lamoureux, Maria Patrizia Marra for accessories; Saman Loira and Aza Lea for clothing. Rovi Lucca, with the Herbarium collection, was the protagonist of an elegant and sophisticated installation in the setting of the Botanical Garden; Bottega Bernard with the UNMUTE collection created a conceptual and contemporary catwalk in the basement of the Baluardo San Regolo.

Rovi Lucca

LUCCA Fashion Weekend 2024
L'Eight Studio

Saman Loira

The Loggiato Pretorio was the stage for a three-day masterclass curated by Le vanità Profumerie and Armani Beauty. More weaving with the exhibition at the Palazzo Mansi National Museum of the ancient rustic weaving workshop Maria Niemack, who is credited with recovering and enhancing the ancient technique of rustic weaving. On display were ancient nineteenth and twentieth-century looms and tools recovered from the area along with a sampler of the various types of fabrics, trimmings and balloons made with these tools.

credit all images
(c) Lucca 2024 and brands

DIOR Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 Haute Couture Show celebrating Faith Ringgold

.new collection
Threads of Freedom
DIOR AW24-25 Homage to Faith Ringgold

written Monica de Luna

Dior’s Autumn-Winter 2024-2025 Haute Couture Show emerges from the fusion of art and fashion, a poignant tribute to the late Faith Ringgold. Her prolific legacy of activism and creativity continues to inspire. Under Maria Grazia Chiuri’s visionary guidance, Dior’s Creative Director, the collection celebrates Ringgold’s indomitable spirit, seamlessly blending Haute Couture with powerful narratives of female empowerment and artistic rebellion.

Faith Ringgold, born in 1930 in Harlem, New York, passed away in April 2024, leaving behind a legacy that spanned over seven decades. Her multifaceted career as a painter, sculptor, performance artist, writer, and educator was marked by a relentless pursuit of social justice. Ringgold’s work, deeply rooted in African American identity and gender equality, found a resonant echo in Chiuri’s latest collection for Dior.

Read why!

“You can’t sit around and wait for somebody to say who you are. You need to write it and paint it and do it.”

— Faith Ringgold

SCENOGRAPHY © ADRIEN DIRAND
© Faith Ringgold @acagalleries
© Chanakya School of Craft (12)

SCENOGRAPHY © ADRIEN DIRAND
© Faith Ringgold @acagalleries
© Chanakya School of Craft (3)

The show was a dazzling spectacle, merging the elegance of Haute Couture with the raw energy of Ringgold’s artistic legacy. Chiuri’s audacious use of jersey—a material traditionally shunned by couture—defied conventions and redefined luxury. Metallic hues of gold, silver, and white jersey cascaded over models, with ultra-light bustiers sculpting their silhouettes, creating a symphony of classical aesthetics and modern innovation.

The scenography with installations showcasing some of Ringgold’s most iconic series: Freedom Woman Now and Woman Free Yourself. These political posters, born in the early 1970s, were potent reminders of Ringgold’s enduring feminist and activist spirit. Freedom Woman Now, with its interlocking triangles and bold declarations, remains a clarion call for gender equality—a message as powerful today as it was over fifty years ago.

Chiuri’s collection also paid homage to the classical peplum, reimagining this historically significant garment within the context of contemporary women’s political freedom. The intricate draping and pleating of the pieces echoed the fluidity of movement, nodding to athletes from antiquity to the present day who have continually pushed boundaries and shattered barriers.

One standout feature of the show was the reinterpretation of Ringgold’s Windows of the Wedding #1: Woman, a series that celebrated the collaboration between Ringgold and her mother, Madame Willi Posey. Banners inspired by this work highlighted the symbiotic relationship between art and fashion, weaving together personal and collective histories. The thangkas, traditionally used in Tibetan art, were transformed into vibrant backdrops, underscoring the collection’s rich thematic depth. Simply fabulous!

also read DIOR HC SS 2024 Collection Review

The collaboration with the Chanakya ateliers and the Chanakya School of Craft brought Ringgold’s Civic Center L.A. Subway Commission mosaics to life, reimagined as stunning embroideries. These life-sized recreations adorned the runway, blurring the lines between art and Haute Couture, celebrating the unifying power of creativity ahead of the 2024 Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games.

Red, Christian Dior’s “color of life,” pulsed through the collection, infusing it with vitality and defiance. A bathrobe embellished with mosaic mirrors stood out, transforming a mundane item into a statement of artistic rebellion. This fusion of couture and sportswear, classicism and rebellion, showcased Chiuri’s knack for crafting a narrative that is reflective and visionary. Chiuri’s homage encapsulated Ringgold’s legacy, underscoring Haute Couture’s power to challenge perceptions and inspire change.

As Ringgold herself said,

“The most important thing, to me, in life is inspiration. I want to inspire others and I want to be inspired.”

all content
(c) DIOR HC AW24-25