CHURCH’S x MIU MIU *Heritage and Haute Couture

*New Collection
CHURCH’S x MIU MIU
The Dance of Heritage and Haute Couture

written Sarah Arendts

Tradition meets rebellion in the most unexpected union of the season. For Fall/Winter 2023, Miu Miu and Church’s are blurring the boundaries between the time-honored and the audacious. The marriage of Church’s timelessness with Miu Miu’s fearless essence produces a collection that is equal parts regal and renegade.

CELINE WOMEN WINTER 23
KAIA by Hedi Slimane
(c) Celine

At the heart of the campaign, an ornate gentleman's armchair takes center stage. This isn't just any armchair—it's swathed in decadent archive Miu Miu fabric, speaking of opulence from bygone days. And it's here, upon this chair of heritage, where our models don the newest fashion dare: the Church’s X Miu Miu brogue and double monk strap shoe.

Against the plush backdrop of the chair, our models lounge, their postures oozing ease, upending the traditional propriety these shoes have long stood for. Each pose is an echo of Miu Miu's signature defiance—a playful nod to bending the 'rules.'

Meticulously crafted in glossed brushed leather, the shoes arrive in enduring black and tobacco. Their shape is a nuanced departure from the original Church’s—broader and more substantial. Yet, even as the design pushes boundaries, elements like the characteristic patterned serration remain. But the real eye-catcher? A sports-inspired, malleable rubber sole boldly replacing the classic leather one.

And in an ode to their collaboration, both the Miu Miu and Church’s X Miu Miu logos are strategically showcased—imprinted on tongues, embossed on the sides, and printed within the shoe, exuding the luxury and opulence of the partnership.

credits

seen Lengua
creative direction Edward Quarmby
styled Lotta Volkova
models Rejoice Chuol & Annabelle Weatherly

(c) MIUMIU x Church´s

Especially intriguing is the double monk strap shoe, adorned with the iconic wing-tip motif — a heartfelt nod to Church's British roots and craftsmanship.

Miu Miu's love for dancing between the known and the new shines through. This collection is a flirtation with the comfort of the known while reveling in the thrill of reinvention. As always, the brand revels in and reinvents the familiar, ensuring fashion enthusiasts are always on their toes.

Fashion's newest paradox is here, and it's unmissably chic.

Interview *Ani Bagdasaryan / AYANI

*Interview
AYANI
- Crafting Sustainable Wardrobes for the Modern Woman

written + interview Sarah Arendts

Founded in the bustling metropolis of Berlin in 2018, AYANI has quickly emerged as the ultimate fashion destination for the modern woman. Under the creative direction of its founder, Ani Bagdasaryan, AYANI strives to provide an effortless "5-minute work wear fix" that embodies style, comfort, and responsibility, allowing women to focus more on the things that truly matter to them.

AYANI
MANE | Elegant midi dress with kimono belt in green

AYANI
Isabel | Wrap Dress with balloon sleeves in Saffron

AYANI's unique brand ethos is centered around crafting dresses that encapsulate the essence of a woman's daily routine – versatile, functional, and tastefully stylish. Characterized by flattering shapes, vibrant hues, generous pockets, and perfect lengths, the brand offers the ideal sartorial solution for women who value both aesthetics and convenience.

The brand proudly upholds the ethos of sustainable fashion, ensuring their pieces not only look and feel good but also respect the planet.

From the use of eco-friendly fabrics to supporting ethical production methods, AYANI is a testament to the seamless marriage of fashion and sustainability.

With a strong focus on community and a commitment to making a difference, AYANI goes beyond being just a clothing line. It's a community of driven women, a contributor to social causes, and a passionate advocate for sustainable living and slow fashion.

AYANI
Emilia | Midi A-line dress with linen in red

Sarah Arendts
What inspired you to start AYANI and how has your Armenian heritage influenced your design and business approach?

Ani Bagdasaryan
The inspiration behind AYANI is rooted in the realization that the women's workwear market is shockingly underserved and lacking in options that truly cater to the needs of modern working women. Women invest at least 50% of their time in the workplace, and yet an absolute majority of clothing options available in the market are geared towards casual wear, falling short when it comes to meeting the demands of professional work settings. Having personally experienced this scarcity of suitable choices, I felt compelled to create a clothing brand that addresses this gap.

Speaking about my background, the Armenian culture has profoundly shaped the heart and soul of AYANI. Firstly, my Armenian heritage has filled me with a deep appreciation for craftsmanship which serves as the cornerstone of my design ethos. Secondly, growing up in an Armenian family, I was instilled with the belief that true happiness lies in helping others, and this principle profoundly influenced the way I approach my work. In embracing the spirit of community and genuine care for our partners and clients, I foster a compassionate and empathetic approach that drives us to create a brand that deeply resonates with our customers' aspirations and empowers women in their daily lives. The strong community values present in Armenian culture have led me to place a paramount emphasis on our customers' needs, valuing customer wishes over profit.

How does AYANI address the needs of the modern woman through its unique "5-minute workwear fix" concept?

Our "5-minute workwear fix" concept encapsulates my dedication to empowering the modern woman with versatile and time-efficient fashion choices. We recognize the dynamic lifestyles that many women lead today, often balancing multiple roles. With this in mind, we endeavor to reflect a harmonious fusion of elegance and practicality in our designs, offering affordable luxury that transcend traditional workwear, enabling women to effortlessly transition from client meetings to weekend trips and celebratory occasions.
Our aim is to provide the modern working woman with a well-rounded wardrobe that meets her diverse needs, offering functional and stylish options that resonate with her sense of style and practicality.

Can you share your thoughts on why AYANI focuses exclusively on dresses and how it contributes to a woman's confidence and comfort?

AYANI's exclusive focus on dresses is a conscious decision rooted in my belief that dresses are inherently versatile garments. With dresses, there's no need to spend time matching tops to bottoms, allowing women to effortlessly slip into a complete outfit. Also, when thoughtfully designed, dresses offer unparalleled freedom of movement and utmost comfort, making them, in my opinion, far more comfortable than any other piece of clothing. By concentrating on this stylistic staple, we can refine our expertise, ensuring that every design embodies the highest standards of comfort, elegance, and functionality.

I truly believe that dresses have the unique ability to evoke a sense of empowerment and ease. A well-designed dress can accentuate a woman's natural beauty and highlight her best features, giving her a sense of empowerment and self-assurance. This is clearly visible in our designs. Moreover, an elegant and flattering silhouette of a dress can enhance a woman's posture and body language, creating a poised and confident demeanor. There is no doubt that when a woman feels confident in her appearance, it strikingly radiates through her interactions and adds to her overall sense of confidence.

Could you tell us more about your choice of sustainable fabrics and the role they play in AYANI's mission towards eco-friendliness?

Our choice of sustainable fabrics is both a reflection of our commitment to eco-friendliness and a response to the prevailing disregard for the environment within the fashion industry. To achieve this, I carefully select a handful of eco-friendly materials for my collections. In particular, Viscose Ecovero holds a special place in our sustainable fabric choices. This innovative fiber is derived from sustainably managed wood sources, primarily from certified and controlled wood forests. The production process of Viscose Ecovero boasts an impressively low environmental impact, utilizing efficient resource management and closed-loop manufacturing, which significantly reduces water consumption and carbon emissions compared to traditional viscose production.

It is important to mention that our commitment to sustainability extends beyond fabric choices. From buttons to care labels, we diligently select sustainably made alternatives to conventional options. As a brand dedicated to continuous improvement, with each new collection, we strive to elevate the sustainable profile of our garments and minimize our garment's impact on the environment.

AYANI
Lilit | Formal Midi Dress with Wrap Optic in Black

AYANI appears to be much more than a clothing brand, with strong emphasis on community and social causes. Could you expand on these aspects of your brand?

Beyond being a clothing brand, AYANI is an embodiment of my belief in the transformative power of fashion. In my opinion, the lack of options for women in the workwear market is not just a mere oversight but a larger representation of the unaddressed needs and aspirations of women in their professional lives. A prime example of how we strive to tackle this issue is through AYANIWomen talks. These are a series of enlightening discussions and free knowledge-sharing events organized by us in the past. Dedicated to nurturing various skills that enhance female confidence, our talks encompass diverse topics, ranging from financial literacy to developing strong presentation skills. The great success of these events has inspired us to continue organizing more such engagements in the future, growing the sense of community that lies at the core of AYANI's values.

Furthermore, AYANI actively engages in supporting social causes in Armenia in the fields of education, environmental conservation, and women's empowerment. We are proud to have supported several meaningful initiatives, including local environmental activists, who in 2019 worked tirelessly to stop the development of the Amulsar gold mine and to save the precious ecosystem surrounding it. In 2020 during the war we have actively donated to charities dedicated to helping displaced women and children affected by the war that Azerbaijan unleashed on the independent region of Nagorno-Karabakh (Artsakh) with predominantly Armenian population. Recently, we made a significant contribution to an NGO that worked towards providing a semblance of normality to Armenian children living in Artsakh, a region currently blockaded for over 300 days by the Azerbaijani government. I am deeply moved by the inhumane circumstances these children face, with limited access to food and basic necessities, unable to leave the region and for many to reunite with their relatives.
I strongly believe that every business (and person) can make a difference in the lives of others not only choosing with whom they work but also by contributing part of the profit to causes they support. I am humbled by the opportunity to contribute to these critical causes, and it remains an integral part of my brand philosophy to continue making a positive difference in the lives of those in need.

As a supporter of the slow fashion movement, what are your future plans to promote sustainability and a mindful approach to living through AYANI?

Above all, our foremost commitment remains focused on prioritizing the creation of timeless and enduring designs that transcend passing trends. We are resolute in crafting clothing that women genuinely desire to wear, infusing each piece with purpose and a problem-solving intention. As we continue to evolve, our intention is to maintain deliberately small collections, offering only a handful of styles each season, in a fervent bid to combat overproduction and thereby reduce our environmental impact.

This approach serves a dual purpose, as it not only aligns with our sustainability goals but also serves as a catalyst in educating our cherished customers about the merits of a thoughtfully curated wardrobe over an extensive one. By fostering a conscious consumer mindset through education, we endeavor to liberate our clientele from the allure of fast fashion and nurture a profound appreciation for long-lasting, high-quality garments. In doing so, we want to redefine the narrative of fashion consumption, inspiring a shift towards mindful choices and a deeper connection to the intrinsic value of enduring style.
Needless to say, transparency and responsibility will continue to guide our actions. We will continue to work directly and closely with factories having a safe work environment and where every person is receiving a fair wage. We will also amplify our efforts in raising awareness about sustainable fashion and the environmental impact of consumer choices. Through various initiatives, we seek to empower our customers with the knowledge to make informed decisions and embrace mindful living.

discover www.ayani.co
follow @ayaniclothing

Celine Winter 2023 Show Revels in Indie Sleaze Glamour

*New Collection
CELINE Winter 2023
Decoding Indie Sleaze in High Fashion's Winter Rebellion

written Sarah Arendts

The fashion world waits with bated breath as CELINE's Winter 2023 co-ed show, dubbed 'CELINE at The Wiltern,' illuminates the iconic Los Angeles theatre. Marrying the vintage glamour of the art deco venue with CELINE's modern edgy sartorial prowess, this show promises a spectacle of high fashion underscored by rebellious indie undertones.

CELINE WOMEN WINTER 23
KAIA by Hedi Slimane
(c) Celine

The Wiltern, standing tall at the intersection of Wilshire Boulevard and Western Avenue, has a rich history bathed in transformations. Originally designed as a vaudeville theatre by Stiles O. Clements of Morgan, Walls & Clements, it's a shining testament to the art deco architectural style in the United States. As we step into this history-soaked theatre, we are welcomed by a burst of richly colored murals, decorative plaster, and ornate tile work that adorn the interiors, the pièce de résistance being the theatre's signature sunburst ceiling.

The show finds a rhythm in the offbeat backdrop of the theatre, which has played host to legendary acts like Prince, Nina Simone, Beck, Lou Reed, and Patti Smith, among others. The echo of these music icons resonates within the new collection, as CELINE's Hedi Slimane imbues the Winter 2023 show with undertones of rock chic and indie sleaze.

The collection takes off with a tailored suit, a beacon of Slimane's vision of indie luxury, adorned with gold buttons running from collar to hem. This is quickly followed by off-duty rock star essentials such as fringed accessories, bohemian slouchy leather bags, and riding boots that radiate a glamorized grunge aesthetic.

Embracing the gold feathers on faux fur jackets and the quintessential tight leather pants, Slimane's collection sparks an era of indie decadence. Jeans as skinny as they can be, and leather boy jackets blend into an electric vision of luxurious rebellion, where indie sleaze dances with high fashion.

The menswear collection oozes with a current of rock 'n' roll royalty. A red blazer adorned with gold trims feels like a call-back to Freddy Mercury's flamboyant style, and loose ties worn on undone white shirts under checkered car coats transport us to the Northern British indie rock scene.

Dive into CELINE's Winter 2023 Show at The Wiltern, where high fashion collides with indie sleaze in a captivating co-ed spectacle. Brace for a style revolution, CELINE style:

(c) Celine

Tributes to the music legends who have graced The Wiltern stage are not left out of Slimane's fashion narrative. A black power suit, shoulders sharp and ready for a performance, gives a nod to Prince's bold style. Silver-trimmed sparkling suits, sheer tops with bow ties and ruffles, and a standout gold lamé suit, serve as Slimane’s study on stage-worthy rock star attire.

As the final curtain falls on CELINE's Winter 2023 Show, we are left with Slimane's sartorial genius, embodying rock 'n' roll chic and indie sleaze. It's a powerful collection that transcends the boundary between high fashion and rock culture, further solidifying Slimane’s unique style identity that has carried him from House to House. CELINE at The Wiltern is, in essence, a celebration of music, fashion, and the rich history of an iconic Los Angeles landmark. As the soundtrack, "Hello Operator" by The White Stripes, fades out, the audience is left with an indelible impression of Slimane's vision: indie has indeed never looked so luxurious.

Valentino ESCAPE Capsule Collection 2023

*New Collection
Escape The Ordinary
Valentino's 2023 Capsule Collection

written Sarah Arendts

Prepare to embark on a stylish journey through time with Valentino’s innovative Escape 2023 capsule collection. Reimagining iconic prints from their vast archives, the Maison brings an enchanting interplay of past and present to the season's wardrobe staples.

(c) VALENTINO 2023
seen Marie Schuller

From lightweight caftans to breathable mini dresses, the revitalized Animalier, Loop, and Panther prints turn everyday vacation looks into memorable fashion moments. Classic staples are reborn with a modern twist, promising to turn heads wherever your summer adventures take you.

The iconic Animalier print, first revealed in 1967, brings the power of animal print to sheer coverups, flowing caftans, and statement accessories. The panther print, steeped in sartorial history, comes back to life on sequin-embroidered tops and beachwear, while the hypnotic Loop print adds vibrant hues to crop tops, dresses, and clutches.

Beyond the wardrobe, Valentino has envisioned immersive global experiences that transport and inspire. These curated adventures promise to blend heritage with exciting new experiences in picturesque locales such as Ravello, Saint-Tropez, Forte Dei Marmi, Mykonos, Dubai, and the Hamptons.

(c) VALENTINO 2023
seen Marie Schuller

So gear up to escape the ordinary this summer. The Valentino Escape 2023 capsule collection, available in select boutiques and online from mid-May 2023, is your passport to an unforgettable fashion journey.

MIU MIU AW 2023 CAMPAIGN

*New Campaign
Miu Miu LIVE!
Unveils Fashion's Future in a Timeless Void

written Sarah Arendts

Prepare for lift-off! Miu Miu is catapulting us into the future, melding the past with the now and the time to come in its Fall/Winter 2023 campaign, 'Miu Miu Live!'. The fashion powerhouse is redefining the runway, turning transient democratic spaces into a surrealist time portal. Is it an airport? A TV studio? Or a time machine revving to transport you into an era where fashion bends and transcends time?

Zhao Jinmai for MIU MIU FW23

seen Zoë Ghertner
creative direction Edward Quarmby
styling Lotta Volkova

The beings that inhabit this world are an enigma, a juxtaposition of the outward and inward. One moment they're in full-throttle performance mode, living the 'Live!', the next they're retreating into self-absorbed shells, exuding an intriguing remoteness. It's a studied disorientation, a familiar disruption that dares to veer off the path beaten by time.

Their attire follows this daring divergence. Imagine elegant twinsets, knee-length pencil skirts and oversized tailoring in dry, heavyweight wools that conspire to both cover and uncover the body. Miu Miu turns the fashion world on its head, as the ordinarily hidden – waistbands of stockings, signature panties sans skirts, and delicate petticoats – strut into the limelight. It's a flirtation between spontaneity, languor, and ease veiled in mystery, a testament to the self-absorbed, peaceful solitude of the human being.

In 'Miu Miu Live!', everyone from avatars to real-life personas oscillates between the abstract and the intimate, foreground and background. The campaign weaves an elusive narrative, showing enough but never revealing too much. The universally recognised – the sincere – is turned inside out and scrutinised under a different lens.

This multidimensional drama of Miu Miu enlists a star-studded cast. Singer-songwriter Ethel Cain adds her haunting vocals to the mix. The thespian charm of Emma Corrin, Mia Goth, and Zhao Jinmai amps up the campaign's cinematic feel. Models Amelia Gray Hamlin and Annabelle Weatherly, with their timeless beauty, further elevate the experience. And LGBTQ+ advocate and model, Zaya Wade, lends her bold advocacy and individuality to the campaign.

Zaya Wade for MIU MIU FW23

Under the masterful eye of photographer Zoë Ghertner, 'Miu Miu Live!' manifests as a mesmerising fashion paradox, both immediate and timeless, engaging yet elusive. It's not just a campaign, it's a new era of fashion — a journey through time where Miu Miu rewrites the rules of the game.

So strap in and prepare for a future where fashion knows no bounds.