SS26 Womenswear - REBEL SOUL with Brydie Cleveringa

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REBEL SOUL
*with Brydie Cleveringa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The hallmarks of painstaking tailoring include, but are not limited to a slimline silhouette, soft volumes and, usually, the addition of contrast accents found in sartorial textures. Designer brands were the initial catalysts for this trend, but it has since been fuelled by iterations from premium wear giants and high-street counterparts, too.

Brydie wears a total look by MCQUEEN

Emerging designers are also faithful adopters, and released their iterations throughout years of innovation. True to form, tailoring is very much in-keeping with the pared-back identity luxury has become known for, and pairs well with the puddling hemlines of the cosy separates seen across mainline collections. (The model’s shots on this story, styled by LE MILE’s very own Fashion Market Director, exemplify the multiple styling possibilities of these offerings.) Proof that they’ve been a hit? Wear-anywhere tailoring is available in several styles, as well as classic cuts that stand the test of a lifetime. As is the case with any cult high-street product, many Italians have welcomed these staples into their everyday wardrobes. I’ve seen them on the Tube, in pub gardens – and now that they’re included in the designer’s seasonal proposals, I expect they’ll become even more popular in no time.

Brydie wears blazers and pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shirt by TAGLIATORE

Brydie wears a total look by FERRAGAMO

Brydie wears a total look by VALENTINO

Brydie wears blazer and white shirt by MICHAEL KORS, striped shirt by ARTHUR ARBESSER, skirt by MEIMEIJ, shoes by APEPAZZA

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model BRYDIE CLEVERINGA via D MANAGEMENT GROUP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - DANCING TIDES with Simone Emili

.digital
DANCING TIDES
*with Simone Emili

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Simone Emili’s first approach to dance was quite unusual, and came almost by chance. “I was about ten years old, a very hyperactive kid, and I felt the need to practice a sport, but I couldn’t really find one that I saw myself in,” he tells LE MILE’s Fashion Director, Chidozie Obasi. “There was one thing, however, that came naturally to me: in every sport I tried, in moments of rest, I always ended up dancing.”

Simone wears a vest by FEDERICO CINA and pants by ISSEY MIYAKE MEN

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a tank top by SANDRO, a skirt by ACT N1, and pants by SETCHU

From then on, he never stopped: at first, it was simply a hobby, something that spontaneously became a part of his daily routine. Then, during adolescence, he began to understand that it could become much more. “I completely changed my mindset and approach: dance became a tool for transforming my body, my mind, and, ultimately, the person I am today.”

Emili believes that today, the relationship between fashion, expression, and dance is at its peak. “There’s an increasingly perceptible mutual contamination between these worlds, which now communicate naturally and continuously,” he reflects. “It’s as if they were a single form of expression: one doesn’t exclude the other, but rather complements it. Where there’s fashion, there’s also movement; and movement, ultimately, is the very essence of dance. Fashion, in my opinion, is a form of dance: it communicates through the body, lines, and attitude. Likewise, dance embodies an aesthetic, a sense of style and expression that deeply resonates with the language of fashion.”

The emotions Emili felt during the shoot were bountiful, but what struck him most was the stark contrast between them. “Wearing six different looks, I felt like I was experiencing six distinct emotional states,” he says. “Each outfit transported me to a different atmosphere, almost a new environment, capable of evoking specific sensations: from harmony to elegance, even a kind of anger,” he explains. “All these emotions then became part of my performance in front of the camera. It was precisely this emotional journey that allowed me to face a long and intense day with energy and awareness. My goal was to create a contrast between the looks: not just an outfit change, but a transformation of my entire personality time after time.”

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a shirt by CANAKU, shorts by HED MAYNER, and shoes by AQVA ALTA

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

Simone wears a sweater by MORDECAI, a shirt by MANUEL RITZ, pants by ACT N1, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Simone wears a total look by MOSCHINO

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model SIMONE EMILI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - SOFT PROJECTION with Matteo Guerrieri

.digital
SOFT PROJECTION
*with Matteo Guerrieri

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Wear-anywhere separates are something of a paradox. Whether you choose breezy numbers or a style that stretches, something in neutral shades or a more tempered hue, their practical aesthetic can appear effortless – see Matteo Guerrieri’s proposal for the taking – however, the flipside is that for all their daily effortlessness, they require significantly more upkeep than their structured counterparts.

Matteo wears a blazer by CANALI, a bomber and scarf by ETRO, a shirt by BOSS, pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Quite simply, they deliver something different to classic true staples, which is why 24/7 wearers of soft tailoring will always have an ample range in their rotation. I own many: blazers, sweats and cardigans styles from both the high street and premium houses, which have a subtle aesthetic that teams nicely over sneakers or formal footwear. They serve different purposes, as you can probably tell by their shapes, but, crucially, both deliver polish in a mode that’s easy and undone.

They could pretty much be styled with any toppers, from a chunky knit by day to a long-sleeved cotton offering by night. (I also love a shirt-meet-sweat moment, although that might be too much for a night out.) My only note would be to score on the low-effort proposals, as the key is not overdoing it. Minimal layers, a quiet necktie and comfortable shoes – a lived-in Church’s loafer or a funky trainer, such as BEPOSITIVE – are the way to go. All that is left to do now is finding your staple of choice, and you’ll become the embodiment of Spring in no time. You’re welcome.

Matteo wears a polo sweater by FERRAGAMO, a knit T shirt by AGNONA, pants by FIVEFOURFIVE, and shoes by FERRAGAMO

Matteo wears a total look by VALENTINO

Matteo wears a total look by DIOR HOMME

Matteo wears a tank top by ISABEL MARANT, a vest by LUCA LARENZA, a shirt by LABO.ART, pants by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Matteo wears a cardigan by EXTREME CASHMERE, a shirt by MORDECAI, pants by INSTITUTION, shorts by LUCA LARENZA, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model MATTEO GUERRIERI via MASC AGENCY
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri