.BRAND DNA
* A Form That Breathes
ISSEY MIYAKE S/S 2023

written Mark Ashkins

 
 

The ISSEY MIYAKE Spring/Summer 2023 collection, A Form That Breathes, was presented on September 30 in Paris. The collection is based on an exploration of making sculptures. By experiencing the creative process—the freedom of shaping and forming with one’s own hands—the collection incorporates ideas, elements, and textures inspired by the sculpting process to develop original garment forms. Each piece of clothing created this way is a sculpture made of fabric that seems rigid at first, but turns into a soft, fluid form as soon as it moves, so lively as if it is about to breathe.

 
 
ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week Show LE MILE Magazine dance performance
 
 
ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week Show LE MILE Magazine Runway look
 
 

The TORSO series for Spring Summer 2023 is defined by its striking sculptural form. The design team crafted the torso shape out of one piece of fabric, making it both firm and flexible. The three-dimensional silhouette and draping effect is achieved by putting the garment on, like a sculpture coming to life.

The TORSO JUXTAPOSE features prints in bold colors, applied by hand to the same fabric as the TORSO series. The print has a thick, textured look, inspired by the stately appearance of a sculpture. The R COAT and R SHIRT are designed with sleek lines from the shoulders to the cuffs. The R COAT is made of a lightweight, stretchy fabric that is water-resistant for great function. The R SHIRT is made with cotton on the outside and special nylon stretch yarn on the inside that is soft and fine. To add volume on the shoulders, piping tape made from extra fabric is sewn on to create a curved look that goes down to the cuffs.

 
ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week Show LE MILE Magazine Runway look red
 
ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week Show LE MILE Magazine Runway look coat neon
 
ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week Show LE MILE Magazine Runway look coat green
 

RESONANT SUIT is made from fabric that is first folded and then partly hand-pleated in a circular pattern. The design has a series of circular pleats that are inspired by life cycles and rebirth. LINKAGE is a series of seamless knitwear that makes use of the roundness and sharpness that appear when different knitting techniques are combined. The fabric is made from recycled polyester. The garments' patterns are created by mixing yarn in two different colors. Its vertical bounciness changes with the wearer's movement, reminiscent of a living statue. ASSEMBLAGE is a series of seamless knitwear characterized by its transparency and three-dimensionality inspired by abstract molded forms. The light, bouncy design features delicate yarn and combines various knitting techniques. By layering the same material or combining colors, items can be worn in a variety of ways.

 
 

The clothing brand NUDE created a line of knitwear inspired by sculptures of the human body. The inner panels of the clothing are made with sheer yarn, creating a draping and three-dimensional effect in a straight silhouette. The items can also be worn backwards, allowing them to be enjoyed from various angles, like viewing a sculpture.

 
ISSEY MIYAKE Spring Summer 2023 Paris Fashion Week Show LE MILE Magazine Runway look dress knit
 

The SCULPTURES line of jewelry features designs based on a series of sculptures. The design team used 3D scanning to reduce the size of the sculptures so they could be worn as jewelry. The jewelry is made of brass and/or tin alloy, which faithfully reproduces the delicate forms of the original sculptures.

You can find ISSEY MIYAKE's upcoming Spring Summer 2023 collection on their website, along with the full runway show featuring garments that are designed to look like sculptures.

 

credits
all images (c) ISSEY MIYAKE