*Runway
Emporio Armani ATLANTIC
Charting New Sartorial Horizons in Fall/Winter 2024/25
written Sarah Arendts
Emporio Armani's Fall/Winter 2024/25 Men’s Collection, christened Atlantic, is a narrative woven into the very fabric of maritime adventure and open-minded exploration. Set against the backdrop of a wintry, tumultuous sea, the collection takes us on a sartorial voyage across the rugged elegance of oceanic life, merging the realms of the seafarer with urban sophistication.
As models walked the runway, transformed into a ship's deck, each step echoed the collection's central theme - a journey across the ocean.
The models, dressed as sailors, cabin boys, engineers, and officers, brought to life a maritime epic through the unmistakable lens of Armani's aesthetic. The silhouettes were bold and unapologetic, with broad, well-defined shoulders 'anchored' by lace-ups with high soles, transforming into soft boots when paired with gaiters. This interplay of style and functionality was a nod to the ruggedness and practicality of sea life.
The harbourside elegance was palpable in every piece - long coats, abbreviated jackets, trousers with generous volumes, and greatcoats, all reminiscent of those brave enough to cross seas. Leather sailor jackets and hats paid homage to a timeless dress code, while gilets and bibs layered over jackets and peacots added layers of functionality. In a striking departure from convention, shirts were replaced by tops in matching fabrics to blazers and trousers, presenting a new, decisive monochrome uniform.
Emporio Armani's palette for "Atlantic" was a deep, mysterious mix of navy blue, steel grey, ice white, and midnight black, reflecting the profound depths of the ocean. This chromatic narrative was enhanced with tweed motifs, pinstriping, and flocking, all unified in singular color schemes. The metallic embroidery on jackets, shirts, and coats added an adventurous flair, reminiscent of the sea's transformative impact on ships.
A standout feature of the collection was its bold approach to gender fluidity. Emporio Armani redefined traditional gender boundaries by adapting and re-proportioning select garments for women, blending them seamlessly into the collection. This radical move not only challenged the norms of masculine and feminine fashion but did so with a natural elegance, epitomizing Armani's commitment to exploring new horizons in fashion and identity.
Bags resembling hand luggage with robust mesh details, and large seabags, were integral parts of the collection's narrative. For women, the incorporation of stiletto heels alongside rugged attire boldly stated that strength and femininity are not at odds but can coexist harmoniously.
Emporio Armani
Runway Fall/Winter 2024/2025
Emporio Armani's Atlantic show was a celebration of the adventurous spirit, a tribute to the resilience and romance of the sea translated into fashion. This collection is a beacon of innovation, steering menswear into unexplored territories where adventure and elegance coexist, where masculine and feminine lines blur, and where fashion is a reflection of identity and aspiration.
all images
FW 2024/2025 Runway (c) Emporio Armani, SGP