Berlin Fashion Week SS27
Six Shows That Proved Berlin Has Its Own System
written KLAAS HAMMER
Berlin may have been windy this season, but that did little to deter the city's fashion crowd—or the growing number of international guests—from filling the front rows of Berlin Fashion Week. Across the week, designers once again proved that creativity extended far beyond the clothes themselves. From Zehlendorf and Friedrichshain to the iconic ICC building and Reference Studios' Intervention at the Kronprinzenpalais, each venue became an integral part of the storytelling. On the runway, Berlin showcased what continues to define its fashion identity: sharp tailoring, diverse casting, politically engaged collections, and a new generation of designers confidently shaping the future of the city's creative scene.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer
William Fan
Opening Berlin Fashion Week with a bang, William Fan presented EXCHANGE, a collection inspired by the rituals of collecting and the memories attached to objects found while travelling. Referencing marketplaces from Marrakech to Tokyo, the Berlin designer translated the idea of cultural exchange into a wardrobe that felt both familiar and constantly evolving.
Instead of relying on standout looks, Fan built momentum through repetition. Relaxed cargo trousers anchored the collection, while layered styling, elongated proportions and subtle utilitarian details created a sense of effortless continuity. Delicate pleating introduced movement without overpowering the clean silhouettes, and small metallic charms appeared like keepsakes gathered over time—echoing the collection's central idea that clothes, much like souvenirs, carry the stories of where we've been.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Unvain
Following the success of its debut runway show earlier this year, expectations for Unvain's return to Berlin Fashion Week were high. Fashion insiders anticipated one of the week's standout presentations—and they were right.
The collection balanced rawness with precision. Sheer dresses met low-rise trousers, washed-out T-shirts contrasted with a silver-coated military parka, while unfinished edges and a restrained colour palette reinforced the label's understated aesthetic. Rather than chasing spectacle, Unvain found confidence in subtle styling and carefully considered proportions. Sustainability remained part of the brand's design language without becoming its headline. The fur pieces were created entirely from vintage garments, reconstructed in collaboration with resale platform Sellpy, giving existing materials a new purpose. The result was a collection that felt contemporary, self-assured, and confirmed that Unvain is quickly establishing itself as one of Berlin Fashion Week's most exciting emerging names.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Barragan
Without having followed Barragán closely before Berlin Fashion Week, the presentation at the Mexican Embassy came as a striking discovery. Set within the diplomatic surroundings of the embassy, the show offered more than a traditional runway moment—it created a space for reflection, questioning how identity is shaped, represented, and constantly transformed.
With its queer and Mexican heritage at the core, Barragán has created a distinctive visual language that challenges traditional ideas of identity, questions existing power structures, and reflects on the complexities of contemporary culture. One of the collection’s strongest elements was its casting. In a fashion landscape that increasingly seems to move back towards narrow beauty ideals, Barragán’s runway felt refreshingly open, bringing together different body types, ages, and expressions of individuality. The collection itself embraced contrast and tension.
Distressed T-shirts were paired with transparent fabrics, low-rise trousers with visible underwear, and glossy leather jackets with skin-tight neon-green catsuits. Second-hand inspired denim, heavy boots, and intentionally imperfect layering gave the looks a raw and expressive energy. Presented inside the Mexican Embassy, BARRAGÁN SS30 explored identity as something shaped through movement, politics, history, and cultural exchange. Rather than presenting nationality as a fixed concept, the collection reflected on belonging as something continuously negotiated—formed through experiences, memories, and the places we inhabit.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer
Dagger
After making its runway debut at Berlin Fashion Week last season, Dagger returned with another presentation created in collaboration with Reference Studios „Intervention“ and once again proved why the queer streetwear label has quickly become one of the most exciting emerging voices of the week. Following the overwhelming response to its first show, designer Luke Raine admits that the success came as a surprise. “Genuinely, it was a total shock,” he explains. “We had never done a fashion show before and didn’t know if, judged by an industry standard, people would connect with it.” The reaction ultimately became a defining moment for the designer, reinforcing his decision to trust his instincts and continue building Dagger on its own terms.
For SS27, Raine returned to the coastal seaside town of his youth, Portrush—a place shaped by early 2000s skate culture, summer crowds, and teenage memories. The collection captured those formative years: first jobs, first freedoms, late nights, and the feeling of discovering who you might become. Rather than documenting the town as it was, Raine explored a “rose-tinted version” of home, focusing on the optimism of youth and the moment when the world suddenly begins to feel bigger. Beyond the clothing itself, what stood out was Dagger’s ability to create a complete universe. Few brands manage to bring together casting, hair, makeup, styling, and music with such natural precision. Every element felt connected, reflecting the community-driven spirit at the heart of the label.
The collection translated this authenticity into clothes that appeared already lived in. Washed-out prints, over-dyed denim, college shirts, and sports jerseys came together with relaxed silhouettes and skate-inspired references. Between DIY aesthetics, streetwear codes, and working-class influences, Dagger celebrated the beauty of garments that carry memories—clothing not just made to be worn, but to become part of someone’s story.
For Raine, Dagger has always been about more than clothing. “DAGGER is about taking a chance on yourself no matter who or where you come from,” he says, reflecting on the brand’s beginnings after investing his final savings into printing his first T-shirts. That personal sense of belief has become part of the label’s identity, allowing its pieces to connect with a growing international audience, from Berlin’s creative scene to artists such as Tyla and Rema. With SS27, Dagger continues to prove that authenticity cannot be manufactured. It is built through community, personal history, and the stories people choose to carry with them.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer
GmbH
Closing Berlin Fashion Week’s Reference Studios “Intervention” with a powerful final statement, GmbH turned the runway into a dialogue between forgotten histories and the brand’s own visual language. For their anniversary collection Desire Paths, research into Berlin’s couture past including fashion historian Gesa Kessemeier’s work and archival garments from Julia Schwarz’s “Berliner Chic” collection became a starting point rather than a blueprint. The designers did not recreate the past; they filtered its silhouettes, craftsmanship, and attitude through the unmistakable codes of GmbH.
While remaining anchored in the distinctive GmbH menswear aesthetic, Desire Paths expanded the brand’s visual language with selected womenswear looks, including a memorable appearance by DJ Arca. Across the collection, archival influences met familiar GmbH signatures: cropped bomber jackets, over-the-knee boots, short shorts, and precisely constructed silhouettes were united through a restrained palette of black, grey, and cream. Custom footwear created with UGG and archival-inspired eyewear developed in collaboration with ic! berlin subtly reinforced the collection’s dialogue between craftsmanship, heritage, and contemporary design.
What made the presentation particularly memorable was the emotional connection between fashion, music, and history. When the soundtrack shifted to Hildegard Knef after some looks, the relationship between Berlin’s past and present felt complete—a rare runway moment where every element came together.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer
Marie Louise Müller
One of the newcomers on this season's Berlin Fashion Week schedule, Marie-Louise Müller transformed the rooftop of Lobe Block into a poetic garden for her SS27 collection Escapist Garden. Against the backdrop of raw concrete, dried flower petals welcomed guests while soft house music and playful melodies created the feeling of a warm summer afternoon. Inspired by childhood memories of long days spent barefoot in the garden, Müller presented a collection that celebrated nature through craftsmanship rather than spectacle. Around 2,500 hours of handwork went into the looks, with crochet, embroidery, hand knitting, and upcycled natural fibres forming the foundation of a wardrobe designed to outlast seasonal trends.
The collection unfolded in a palette drawn directly from the natural world, moving from soft creams and earthy greens to delicate pinks, raspberry reds, and sky blues. Floral embroidery and insect motifs appeared throughout the garments, while sculptural pieces—including a skirt constructed from a garden hose—introduced a playful contrast to the collection's otherwise delicate aesthetic. Watering cans carried by several models reinforced the show's whimsical storytelling without feeling overly literal. Rather than chasing novelty, Escapist Garden found its strength in patience, craftsmanship, and emotional storytelling. Marie-Louise Müller delivered one of the week's most quietly memorable debuts, proving that slow fashion and imaginative design can still captivate a Berlin Fashion Week audience.
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer
Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer