Dior's Haute Couture AW 2023

*New Collection
A Visionary Homage to Feminine Power
- Dior's Haute Couture AW 2023/2024 Collection

written John Heath

With every tick of time, haute couture shapes its own epoch, consistently breathing new life into the past. This continuum of history and excellence is epitomized in Dior’s newly unveiled Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2023/2024 Collection. With this daring assembly, Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Artistic Director, spins a fresh tale of haute couture, drawing inspiration from the seminal wardrobe archetypes: the tunic, the peplum, the cape, and the stole.

credits
DIOR Haute Couture AW23
Scenography

(c) Laura Sciacovelli

Every model in this collection conjures an otherworldly divinity, walking in the footprints of goddesses who have, in their time, wielded power over our world. The lines are clean, vertical, contrasted with flat shoes. The colour palette – predominantly white, beige, silver, and pale gold – speaks of regality and refinement, as well as a sublime tranquility.

Chiuri's distinctive touch, ever-present in this collection, pays homage to the essence of femininity, an interplay of strength and vulnerability. With each new look, she pushes the boundaries of haute couture, challenging and reinterpreting the quintessential symbols of Antiquity. The défilé becomes a contemporary ritual, a cyclical representation of the female form as a nurturing pillar of the community, powerful yet delicately crafted.

Yet, this collection is not just about reviving the past, but rather, it serves as a compass pointing us towards a future steeped in sensitivity and conscientious attention to detail. The garments are, in essence, a poetic embodiment of a world where the feminine spirit is revered and celebrated, where strength and fragility are not binary, but coexist in harmony.

This Dior haute couture line transcends the temporal, positioning itself in the realm of timeless fashion. It not only magnifies the vision of Maria Grazia Chiuri but also amplifies the voice of every woman who dares to dress as the deity she is. The Autumn-Winter 2023/2024 collection is a grand manifesto, declaring the evolving aesthetic of Dior, and undeniably leaving a lasting imprint on the haute couture landscape.

A standing ovation for Maria Grazia Chiuri and the House of Dior, for once again, they have managed to blend the old with the new, and reimagined the familiar with the fantastic, a feat that deserves nothing but acclaim. This new collection is a statement: one that pays tribute to the past, stands firmly in the present, and guides us towards a luminously couture future.

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE

.new collection
HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE SS24
A New Wave of Pleats

written John Heath

Echoing through the artistic haven of Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris, the vibrant hum of anticipation crescendoed as the unfolding revelation of HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE's Spring Summer 2024 Collection made its debut. Titled 'Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter', the collection is an ode to the brand's roots in garment pleating, beautifully encapsulating its core ethos of innovative design.

all images (c) HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE

HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE has always carved out a unique path in the sphere of high fashion. Rejecting the ephemeral, the brand staunchly pursues a creative journey towards timeless, yet innovative designs that become inherent to daily life. This collection serves as a testament to this philosophy, presenting an array of pleated masterpieces that amalgamate simplicity with ingenious craftsmanship.

The show opened with a distinctive flourish – a large roll of pleated paper unfurling across the museum gallery. This curious object laid the groundwork for the spectacle that was about to unfold, sparking curiosity among the audience. As the pleated roll unveiled itself, an array of garments emerged, each piece a celebration of the brand's signature pleats.

Each garment breathed a life of its own – an innovative blend of simplicity and technology-infused design. From everyday outfits to one-of-a-kind pieces, the collection served as a canvas for a breathtaking spectrum of fresh, spring-inspired colors. Each piece, born from the brand's avant-garde techniques, beautifully epitomized the HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE philosophy – infusing life into each outfit, transforming the wearer into a walking masterpiece.

Following the reveal of the garments, the design team emerged on stage, dressing the models in an act that was part-performance, part-demonstration. The audience witnessed firsthand the transformation of each garment from a two-dimensional structure to a three-dimensional silhouette – a stunning testament to the potential of the brand's pleating technology.

In a world filled with fleeting trends, HOMME PLISSÉ ISSEY MIYAKE's 'Everyday, One of a Kind, Now and Hereafter' collection resonated with the timeless allure of simplicity, ingeniously merged with the prowess of technology.

The Spring Summer 2024 Collection, while rooted in the brand's origins, emerged as a groundbreaking ode to the future – capturing the very essence of the everyday, the one-of-a-kind, and everything that lies hereafter. This collection is not just a fashion statement but a poignant reminder of the brand's relentless quest for innovative beauty, a manifesto of their unique blend of art, design, and technology.

Pharrell Williams' Debut at Louis Vuitton Men’s SS24

*New Collection
Orbiting the Sun
- Pharrell Williams' Debut at Louis Vuitton Men’s SS24

written Sarah Arendts

In a blaze of creativity and sun-kissed hues, Louis Vuitton's Spring-Summer 2024 Men's Collection marks the dawn of Pharrell Williams' tenure as the Men’s Creative Director for the fashion house. Presented on Paris's Pont Neuf, the collection traces a radiant arc from Paris to Williams' native Virginia, infusing French sophistication with a touch of American sporty verve.

credits

creative director Pharrell Williams 

styling  Cactus  & Matthew Henson 

collection artists Henry Taylor  & E.T Artist 

make up Pat Mcgrath

nails Dawn Sterling 

hair Kareem Belghiran

all images (c) Louis Vuitton

Williams melds the Damier heritage pattern with street-wise camo, birthing the unique 'Damoflage'. Evoking his personal style lexicon, it permeates the collection, flowing effortlessly from accessories to tailoring. Sharply-cut suits, oversized trousers, and collarless tunics reveal a dandy ethos, while a new adaptation of the iconic Louis Vuitton Speedy bag pays tribute to the hustle of Canal Street, NYC.

The collection offers a rich tapestry of detail, from 'Super Zoom' sunglasses to ornate costume jewellery. An homage to his home state, Virginia, is seen in the transformation of the LV initials into an emblem for a culture of LVERS - an inclusive mindset radiating warmth and wellbeing.

Interwoven with the designs are intimate micro embroideries, featuring the art of Henry Taylor. These elements, together with a filmic prelude, 'Pupil King', and an original soundtrack by Pharrell Williams, create a multi-layered narrative.

Culminating in a performance by Pharrell Williams and Jay-Z, this collection asserts Williams' radiant vision for Louis Vuitton, casting the iconic fashion house in a whole new light.

Christopher Kane Resort 2024 Collection

*New Collection
Christopher Kane Resort 2024 Collection
- Unleashing Chic Humor and Unexpected Elegance

written John Heath

Renowned for his knack of blending unexpected elements into stunning fashion statements, designer Christopher Kane, along with his sister and co-creative director, Tammy Kane, introduces a daringly playful note to the Resort 2024 Collection. Captured through the lens of photographer Douglas Irvine, the collection effortlessly elevates the conventional boundaries of high fashion.

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seen Douglas Irvine
creative direction Christopher Kane & Tammy Kane

(c) Christopher Kane

The Resort 2024 Collection sparks intrigue at every turn. A prime example of Kane's distinct flair is the effortless blend of elegance and irreverence: oversized bows grace the hemlines of tailored shifts, and powder-puffs punctuate the necklines of slinky petrol-blue jersey slip dresses. Trousers and blazers feature whimsically cut-out circles at the knees and elbows, adorned with marabou feathers.

But beyond the glossy exterior of this collection, the Kanes incorporate a deeper narrative. The inspiration stemmed from the documentary "All the Beauty and the Bloodshed," which centers on photographer Nan Goldin's advocacy against opioid addiction. The documentary struck a chord with the Kane siblings, highlighting the poignant connection between society's extremes - wealth and deprivation.

Kane's collection mirrors the inherent resilience and style of the impoverished LGBTQ community documented in Goldin's works, where second-hand couture becomes a symbol of survival and beauty amidst adversity. Echoing their childhood memories of Glasgow's post-industrial communities, the designers articulate a socio-economic commentary: "The poorest people are the best-dressed."

The collection nostalgically harks back to the mid-to-late '80s, drawing inspiration from the glamorous, synthetic attires of barmaids serving in Working Men's Clubs. However, Kane cleverly repurposes these references into high-fashion narratives that feel fresh, relevant, and unapologetically audacious. A gold fan-pleated evening dress, named "The Gold Bullion," serves as an abstract reflection of the opulence that perpetually exists within society, as in the '80s New York.

By pushing the creative boundaries and masterfully weaving in socio-cultural narratives, Christopher Kane's Resort 2024 Collection portrays high fashion as a platform for storytelling – an intriguing blend of humor, audacity, and elegance.

Montblanc *New Leather Symphony in Subtle Tones

New Collection
MONTBLANC SOFT A New Leather Symphony in Subtle Tones

written Sarah Arendts

Renowned luxury Maison, Montblanc, has reimagined its celebrated Soft collection. Infusing it with new colors and shapes, the collection now showcases practical models crafted for modern-day travel in Dusty Grey, Brick Red, Spicy Orange, Scottish Green, and Ottanio (Petrol Blue) alongside their trademark black.

Montblanc's Artistic Director, Marco Tomasetta, commented,

"We aimed for comfort, lightness, and style, using soft, supple leather in unique colors and shapes that evoke playfulness and elegance."

In this redefined collection, Montblanc has moved functional features like compartments to the exterior, aligning the designs with the Meisterstück product line's aesthetics.

From large travel bags to small everyday accessories, all exhibit design elements reminiscent of the iconic Meisterstück writing instrument.

These redesigned, soft, and lightweight creations offer a seamless blend of luxury and practicality, promising to become ideal companions for your travel journey. The reimagined Soft collection is now available in Montblanc boutiques worldwide and online.

Get ready to travel in style with Montblanc.