Valentino The Narrative
*Pierpaolo Piccioli´s Menswear Spring Summer 2024

written Chidozie Obasi

 

A constant in Pierpaolo Piccioli’s career has been his fascination with romantic, fluid-like elegance. Perhaps it was something to do with growing up in Rome, but it later matured into the inspiration for some desirable menswear and equally covetable shows.

 

Last fall’s army of poise—and the breezy clothing that accompanied it—were a tour de force. Piccioli returned to the same soft spot for his new show. This time, the set was Milan’s Università degli Studi courtyard, complete with white fixtures and a band set-up that had Labrinth turning up the volume on the subtle offerings.

Piccioli explained that he was keen to take a moment to "redefine an identity," that of men, while re-assessing the denotation of masculinity to unravel a new, raw level. He loved the idea of shape-shifting sartorial codes and that one could contaminate the other. He achieved a touch of lightness with a two-piece white boiler suit with a cinched waistcoat and sharp hems. Other staples were transformed by billowing volumes and zipped fastenings. Tongue was firmly in cheek when Piccioli expanded on the tonal usage of pink into silks and neutral hues, merging the odd and the familiar ever so sublimely.

 
 
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine shirts
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine flower shirt and flower shorts green
 
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine blue coat
 
 
 

The designer is a master of catwalk theatrics; but his Spring 2024 show—done under a scorching sun that had press and celebrities sitting in a diagonal setting—brought a sense of discomfort among invitees. Despite the heat, the clothes were commendable: he strengthened key silhouettes by gently volumising outerwear, toppers, and pants, which continue their journey into chic practicality from previous seasons.

The collection began with the most classic shapes and fabrics, but there’s more to the story. This season saw Piccioli exploring the Japanese concept of Kintsugi (which refers to “golden seams”), describing imperfection as a means of reinvention: because from fragility comes authenticity, and Piccioli is well aware of the power of symbolism, a concept often used as an undercurrent in his men’s collections.

 
 
 
 
 

Breeziness might have seemed like a way to put a new spin on the sartorial theme that dominates menswear for Spring 2024. Is there one designer who didn’t show a blazer this season or make ties the accessory of choice?

 
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine pink coat
 
 
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine-banner Milan Fashion Week 2023 male models show runway
 
 
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine runway look black coat with flower
 
 
Valentino Spring-Summer 2024 show report LE MILE Magazine grey coat and shorts
 
 

Piccioli was no exception, but his new collection also offered a refresher course in the qualities that make him a quiet force in the menswear spectrum. He can cut a compelling suit, has a prowess in twisting a basic shirt into a hyper-elegant blazer and owns a soulful depth that sits at the crossroads of emotion and execution. All those qualities were present today, along with Piccioli’s usually artful reversibles, canny sportswear, and fuss-free cuts. Fortunately, all of this brought a sweeter chapter to the house’s story.

 
 

credits
all images (c) Valentino, 2023