SS26 Menswear - FUNCTION AND FINESSE with Umberto Villahermosa

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FUNCTION AND FINESSE
*with Umberto Villahermosa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

For Italian talent Umberto Villahermosa, a lifestyle pundit whose affection with outdoor sports and art goes back in time, the past year has marked a transition in his path. “I started a clothing brand and I’m learning how to manage my time around working as a model, while building a solid base,” he says, cosily, as we begin to settle into our conversation.

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA, pants by QUARTO ATTO, and shoes by CANALI

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

“It’s been a big challenge, but I’m willing to take it, and it brought a new fire of longing within me.” Since childhood, he’s always been a very creatively-driven kid, and aged fifteen he began building his own surfboards. “It’s only really when I moved over to Milano to study Economics that I understood I was drawn more towards creative disciplines like painting, photography and design,” he confesses. “I’ve always lived with the mentality of making something myself rather than buying it,” he adds. Umberto kicked off his modeling career because of his grandmother, who worked for the Italian house Fendi when she was younger. “She told me that I could work well as a model,” he says, “and took me, just like a scouter, to who’s still my current mother agency.”

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

He wasn’t considering that becoming reality at first, but as he began to work he realised that it was interesting and unique, and that he much preferred honing such practice than working as a finance professional or in a corporate office as his life was originally meant to be. “The uprise of socials during those years also gave me a further opportunity to express myself and release a vision of who I was under my own lens, and that was such a lovely medley of accumulated experiences and sources of inspiration that once again drove me more towards the realm of creativity,” he says. “At the time, I was also motivated by the love I gained on social media, which could also be a slippery slope for obvious mental health reasons,” he reflects. As for the rest? Well, there’s more to the story, which you’ll probably read here first. You’re welcome.

Umberto wears a coat by ACT N1, a shirt by CANAKU, pants by THE NOUR, shoes by JIMMY CHOO, and an archive tie

Chidozie Obasi
Could you unpack your biggest career feats?

Umberto Villahermosa
During the past twelve years of my career, I’d say some of my proudest jobs are my first lookbook shoots for brands such as Versace, Dolce&Gabbana but also shows during fashion week, for example my first ever shows such as MSGM or Philipp Plein. I'm talking about those beginning jobs because I still remember the enthusiasm levels to this day.

How about the complex moments you’ve had?

I would refer as complex moments the fact that modelling, such as a lot of other creative jobs, is not a super stable career, there’s lots of ups and downs and those downturns can be understandably harsh if you don’t have a solid mindset that comes with understanding the idea that you cannot have control over every single facet of your path.

As a model and talent with such a broad experience and portfolio, how did you manage to stay afloat amid the system’s downturns?

I highly believe in professionality and humanity as fundamental values, no matter what the work environment is. You can have your face on all the magazine covers and on the biggest brand campaigns, but if you show up at work late and you treat others badly because you think you are superior, I would personally not hire you to represent my brand. I think I have always respected that and it definitely helped to keep me afloat.

Umberto wears a total look by LORO PIANA

Moving onto your brand, could you expand on it and specify how you are hoping to scale it further?

During my climbing years, I noticed I couldn’t find a comfortable pair of pants to practice such activity outdoors and that would protect my knees and shins from scratches that you would get from hitting granite rock. Therefore, I started climbing with karate pants that were very comfortable in terms of flexibility, but that wouldn’t protect enough from scratches. I decided to make my own climbing because I like to experiment with patterns and create destructured designs that are now the most sold, and that’s how Sasso People was born. I also give the opportunity to customers to have a custom sizing for maximum comfort, and I’m committed to having the closest possible to zero waste repurposing the fabric scraps into accessories and climbing bags. I transformed my living room into my studio, and I currently make everything by hand. It’s doable but I’m at maximum capacity. The big challenge will be to expand with production outsourcing, but in a way that I can maintain the same level of craftsmanship and low environmental impact because these, together with building a healthy and inclusive community, are the main values of the brand.

What’s next for you?

I will surely continue working as a model, keep developing the brand and find solutions to get to a broader public and grow the community. On a more personal level, I promised myself to work on my mental health and take care of myself a little more.

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO and pants by THE LATEST

Umberto wears an overshirt by PAUL SMITH, a shirt and pants by LABO.ART, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Umberto wears a tank top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Umberto wears a blazer by HED MAYNER, pants by THE LATEST, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD and EUPHORIA NEW

Umberto wears a shirt by GRIFONI and pants by PHYSIQUE DU ROLE and MEIMEIJ

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model UMBERTO VILLAHERMOSA via INDEPENDENT MGMT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Womenswear - DANCING TIDES with Franceska Nuredini

.digital
DANCING TIDES
*with Franceska Nuredini

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Franceska Nuredini’s encounter with dance somewhat began as a joke. “As a child, I’d tried various sports, but my mother soon realised that dancing came naturally to me: I loved it and I also had a natural aptitude for it; I was very flexible,” she says. One day, Nuredini’s mother took her along for a trial lesson. “From that moment on, I literally immersed myself in my dance school: it became my whole world for seven years, years of intense study which, almost naturally, turned that passion into my career.”

Franceska wears a coat by DEAD COUTURE ICONS, a shirt by GRIFONI, skirts by MEIMEIJ and YALI, shoes by APEPAZZA, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Combining dance and fashion becomes an innovative way of telling a story, and in this shoot, Nuredini felt at her best to convey such feelings. “Yes, I think this connection between these art forms has grown significantly,” she reflects. “Today, even in fashion, there is an ever-increasing need for expression and movement: the body is no longer merely a backdrop for the garment, but a narrative tool that brings life and meaning to what is worn.”

Nuredini sees herself as someone who works through my body and my image, but for her the creative process leading up to the final result is also fundamental. “I worked in a very comfortable and stimulating environment. The music also played an important role: it changed along with the outfits I was wearing and, as a result, my interpretation and the way I moved changed too,” she says. “Over the past seven years of work, I’ve had quite a few memorable experiences. Among the most significant was the last tour I undertook with the artist Elodie,” she freely admits. “It was an extremely fulfilling experience, both artistically and personally. On stage, I felt free to truly be myself, something that isn’t always a given in my line of work.”

On hopes, she speaks with unguarded honesty. “I sincerely hope that expression, in all its forms, continues to grow ever more,” she concludes. “Beauty and art should never stop evolving and transforming. And, of course, I hope to continue being a part of it myself.”

Franceska wears a dress by MAX ZARA STERCK and a skirt by DRUMOHR

Franceska wears a top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shorts by MANUEL RITZ, and shoes by CASADEI

Franceska wears a top by DRUMOHR and a skirt and scarf by AVANT-TOI

Franceska wears a total look by MOSCHINO

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
talent FRANCESKA NUREDINNI via SOLO STUDIO MILANO
talent manager STEFANO MANCLOSSI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - SUBTLE BLOOM with James Yates

.digital
SUBTLE BOOM
*with James Yates

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

If you’re stuck wearing soft knits for lack of a better option across the minimalism spectrum – a cycle that’s doomed to repeat itself ad infinitum because nothing else quite measures up to a tried-and-tested subtle option – consider tailoring paired with shirts an equally comfortable alternative. Warm, fuss-free and willing to be paired with any essentials from Gant, Armani to Canali (as shown in the below edit), this multi-tasking staple will almost certainly edge ahead when it comes to registering as smart. Structure was present in abundance during Fashion Month, which saw several show-goers pair weighty styles with scarves, longline coats and basics.

James wears a total look by Gant

Would the same outfits have looked good with skinny options? Possibly. But there was something about the way the volumes fell, wrapping ever-so-slightly over the body but looking quite impeccable at first sight, that made those pairings look effortless. As for the shape? Roomy, which still appears to be the most popular, but, like any item in a transitional wardrobe, that’s only the entry point. From neutral-toned blazers, which look supremely chic with a breezy shirt, to wide-legged trousers, which go well with jackets, there’s a whole spectrum to acquaint yourself with this Spring. Scroll on for some of the best styles, edited by LE MILE’s Fashion Market Director. You’re welcome.

James wears blazer DRUMOHR, shirt and tie CANALI, shorts POLO RALPH LAUREN, shoes Gant

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears jacket CANALI, blazer POLO RALPH LAUREN, shirt DOLCE&GABBANA, pants QUARTO ATTO

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears sweatshirt HED MAYNER, shirt POLO RALPH LAUREN, pants EMPORIO ARMANI, shoes BEPOSITIVE

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears a total look by Gant with shoes AQVA ALTA

James wears blazer RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, shorts PHYSIQUE DU ROLE, jeans MOSCHINO

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model JAMES YATES via SPECIAL MANAGEMENT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants VALENTINA INVERARDI + SOFIA FARINA + VINCENZO VITELLO + LUIZA ANGELOVA + SEBASTIAN RAFAEL + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Womenswear - REBEL SOUL with Brydie Cleveringa

.digital
REBEL SOUL
*with Brydie Cleveringa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The hallmarks of painstaking tailoring include, but are not limited to a slimline silhouette, soft volumes and, usually, the addition of contrast accents found in sartorial textures. Designer brands were the initial catalysts for this trend, but it has since been fuelled by iterations from premium wear giants and high-street counterparts, too.

Brydie wears a total look by MCQUEEN

Emerging designers are also faithful adopters, and released their iterations throughout years of innovation. True to form, tailoring is very much in-keeping with the pared-back identity luxury has become known for, and pairs well with the puddling hemlines of the cosy separates seen across mainline collections. (The model’s shots on this story, styled by LE MILE’s very own Fashion Market Director, exemplify the multiple styling possibilities of these offerings.) Proof that they’ve been a hit? Wear-anywhere tailoring is available in several styles, as well as classic cuts that stand the test of a lifetime. As is the case with any cult high-street product, many Italians have welcomed these staples into their everyday wardrobes. I’ve seen them on the Tube, in pub gardens – and now that they’re included in the designer’s seasonal proposals, I expect they’ll become even more popular in no time.

Brydie wears blazers and pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shirt by TAGLIATORE

Brydie wears a total look by FERRAGAMO

Brydie wears a total look by VALENTINO

Brydie wears blazer and white shirt by MICHAEL KORS, striped shirt by ARTHUR ARBESSER, skirt by MEIMEIJ, shoes by APEPAZZA

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model BRYDIE CLEVERINGA via D MANAGEMENT GROUP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - WILD COMPOSURE with Luca Cobelli

.digital
WILD COMPOSURE
*with Luca Cobelli

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Every Spring, I find myself reaching instinctively for one of the best breezy separates that has carried me through countless cold mornings, commutes, late-night dinners and far-fetched trips. No matter how many trends cycles come and go, a body-hugging essential is a mid-season constant. That’s why when investing in one, you need to think carefully about what to look for, what to avoid and the wear-anywhere styles worth considering.

Luca wears a total look by MIU MIU

Luxury brands like MIU MIU, Paul Smith and Michael Kors have practically built their reputations on expertly crafted wardrobes, but there are plenty of more affordable and brilliantly made options on the high street, too. Brands such as BePositive, Avant-Toi and Canaku now offer exceptional quality in the daily wardrobe department without breaking the bank. Also worth noting: Fit is key. A gently oversized cut allows room for billowing shirts underneath and gives a more relaxed feel, while a slimmer or more tailored number offers polish for eveningwear, but isn’t the best for layering underneath on the coldest of days. Aim for a staple that skims the body without swamping it, and make sure the sleeves are the right length – small alterations at your local tailor can make an enormous difference. You’re welcome.

Luca wears a shirt by HED MAYNER, pants by ACT N.1 and shoes by PREMIATA

Luca wears a polo sweater by AVANT-TOI, a shirt by ALESSANDRO GHERARDI, pants by QUARTO ATTO, shorts by CALVIN KLEIN, shoes by CHURCH’S and a tie by THE FRANKIE SHOP

Luca wears a sweater and shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by PAUL SMITH and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Luca wears shirts by PAUL SMITH and LABO.ART, and pants by CANAKU

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model LUCA COBELLI via I LOVE MODELS MANAGEMENT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - DANCING TIDES with Simone Emili

.digital
DANCING TIDES
*with Simone Emili

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Simone Emili’s first approach to dance was quite unusual, and came almost by chance. “I was about ten years old, a very hyperactive kid, and I felt the need to practice a sport, but I couldn’t really find one that I saw myself in,” he tells LE MILE’s Fashion Director, Chidozie Obasi. “There was one thing, however, that came naturally to me: in every sport I tried, in moments of rest, I always ended up dancing.”

Simone wears a vest by FEDERICO CINA and pants by ISSEY MIYAKE MEN

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a tank top by SANDRO, a skirt by ACT N1, and pants by SETCHU

From then on, he never stopped: at first, it was simply a hobby, something that spontaneously became a part of his daily routine. Then, during adolescence, he began to understand that it could become much more. “I completely changed my mindset and approach: dance became a tool for transforming my body, my mind, and, ultimately, the person I am today.”

Emili believes that today, the relationship between fashion, expression, and dance is at its peak. “There’s an increasingly perceptible mutual contamination between these worlds, which now communicate naturally and continuously,” he reflects. “It’s as if they were a single form of expression: one doesn’t exclude the other, but rather complements it. Where there’s fashion, there’s also movement; and movement, ultimately, is the very essence of dance. Fashion, in my opinion, is a form of dance: it communicates through the body, lines, and attitude. Likewise, dance embodies an aesthetic, a sense of style and expression that deeply resonates with the language of fashion.”

The emotions Emili felt during the shoot were bountiful, but what struck him most was the stark contrast between them. “Wearing six different looks, I felt like I was experiencing six distinct emotional states,” he says. “Each outfit transported me to a different atmosphere, almost a new environment, capable of evoking specific sensations: from harmony to elegance, even a kind of anger,” he explains. “All these emotions then became part of my performance in front of the camera. It was precisely this emotional journey that allowed me to face a long and intense day with energy and awareness. My goal was to create a contrast between the looks: not just an outfit change, but a transformation of my entire personality time after time.”

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a shirt by CANAKU, shorts by HED MAYNER, and shoes by AQVA ALTA

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

Simone wears a sweater by MORDECAI, a shirt by MANUEL RITZ, pants by ACT N1, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Simone wears a total look by MOSCHINO

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model SIMONE EMILI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

WHITE Milano Fashion Week - Designers & Brands

.digital
Inside the Creative Pulse of WHITE Milano

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI

During Milan Fashion Week, the city develops a particular rhythm that anyone who has spent time there during those days immediately recognizes. Buyers move between appointments, designers present new collections, editors cross the city from showrooms to presentations, and conversations about fabrics, silhouettes, and ideas stretch late into the evening. In the Tortona district, one of the places where this movement gathers most visibly is WHITE Milano, a trade fair that has gradually become a regular stop in the fashion week calendar, bringing together a wide range of independent labels, designers, and contemporary brands in one shared space.

Viktoria wears a polo shirt by WOC paired with a skirt by MISENITHE

Walking through the halls means encountering very different design approaches within a few steps. Precise tailoring appears next to expressive knitwear, minimal silhouettes meet bold textures, and new labels stand alongside designers who have shaped their language over decades. It is this mix that makes the experience of moving through the fair feel less like a traditional trade environment and more like a condensed snapshot of the current fashion landscape.

Designers including Henrik Vibskov, Camper, Batakovic, Madalina Caminschi, Palo/Santo, Merryl Tielman, Misenithe, Lucille Thievr, Mii Collection, or Annette Görtz appear throughout this story, each representing a different perspective on contemporary design and together reflecting the diversity of ideas, silhouettes, and approaches that surface across the city during those days when Milan briefly turns into one large conversation about fashion.

Viktoria wears a shirt and skirt by MISENITHE

Viktoria wears a jacket by BATAKOVIC with a tank top by MISENITHE

iktoria wears a coat by BATAKOVIC and tights by CALZEDONIA

Viktoria wears a blazer and pants by LUCILLE THIEVRE with and shoes by CAMPER

Viktoria wears a blazer and skirt by MADALINA CAMINSCHI with a shirt by PALO/SANTO, a tie by BATAKOVIC, and a bag by MERRYL TIELMAN

Viktoria wears a tank top and blouse by GURDON&GURDON

Viktoria wears a total look by ANNETTE GÖRTZ

Viktoria wears a total look by MII COLLLECTION

Viktoria wears a dress by HENRIK VIBSKOV with pants by PALO/SANTO

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Matteo D’Agostino

seen MATTEO D’AGOSTINO
fashion director CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
styled EDWARD PUSCA
model VIKTORIA LULKO via LUV MGMT
make up & hair GIULIA MATARAZZO via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion assistants MARTINA MANENTI + SEBASTIAN RAFAEL

SS26 Menswear - SOFT PROJECTION with Matteo Guerrieri

.digital
SOFT PROJECTION
*with Matteo Guerrieri

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Wear-anywhere separates are something of a paradox. Whether you choose breezy numbers or a style that stretches, something in neutral shades or a more tempered hue, their practical aesthetic can appear effortless – see Matteo Guerrieri’s proposal for the taking – however, the flipside is that for all their daily effortlessness, they require significantly more upkeep than their structured counterparts.

Matteo wears a blazer by CANALI, a bomber and scarf by ETRO, a shirt by BOSS, pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Quite simply, they deliver something different to classic true staples, which is why 24/7 wearers of soft tailoring will always have an ample range in their rotation. I own many: blazers, sweats and cardigans styles from both the high street and premium houses, which have a subtle aesthetic that teams nicely over sneakers or formal footwear. They serve different purposes, as you can probably tell by their shapes, but, crucially, both deliver polish in a mode that’s easy and undone.

They could pretty much be styled with any toppers, from a chunky knit by day to a long-sleeved cotton offering by night. (I also love a shirt-meet-sweat moment, although that might be too much for a night out.) My only note would be to score on the low-effort proposals, as the key is not overdoing it. Minimal layers, a quiet necktie and comfortable shoes – a lived-in Church’s loafer or a funky trainer, such as BEPOSITIVE – are the way to go. All that is left to do now is finding your staple of choice, and you’ll become the embodiment of Spring in no time. You’re welcome.

Matteo wears a polo sweater by FERRAGAMO, a knit T shirt by AGNONA, pants by FIVEFOURFIVE, and shoes by FERRAGAMO

Matteo wears a total look by VALENTINO

Matteo wears a total look by DIOR HOMME

Matteo wears a tank top by ISABEL MARANT, a vest by LUCA LARENZA, a shirt by LABO.ART, pants by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Matteo wears a cardigan by EXTREME CASHMERE, a shirt by MORDECAI, pants by INSTITUTION, shorts by LUCA LARENZA, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model MATTEO GUERRIERI via MASC AGENCY
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

FW25 Womenswear - Shape Shifter with Mariana Goncalves

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SHAPE SHIFTER
*with Mariana Goncalves

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Everything feels darker in the winter. Not only do the nights draw in earlier, but the inclination to wear muted tones over vibrant offerings is more prevalent in colder months. As far as separates are concerned, neutral washes tend to dominate this time of year; replacing summer-leaning textures and bright finishes for fabrications in charcoal and black. But it’s not all doom and gloom: a muted palette can look striking against the backdrop of the low sun on a bright fall day, plus they’re more practical for the transitioning periods. Wearing a dark trouser hides any dirt or sogginess that might inevitably gather at the hemlines should you be faced with impromptu downpour or hail—you don’t have to worry about dark pieces as much as lighter shades.

Mariana wears a blazer by DEAD COUTURE ICONS ANARCHIVE, a shirt by TOMMY HILFIGER, a bra by DOLCE&GABBANA, pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, shoes by FRAU, bags by TOD’S and a hat by STETSON

Mariana wears a dress by TORY BURCH, pants by QUARTOATTO, hats by MONTEGALLO, LORO PIANA and ARCHIVE, and jewellery by VOODOO JEWELS

Baggy silhouettes appear especially good when rendered in a sharp hue: key in Tory Burch’s body-hugging volumes, Brioni’s duty-heavy skirts, Max Mara’s wear-anywhere toppers, QuartoAtto’s fuss-free practicality, or Ferragamo’s airy staples. The constant yearn for versatility has made way for several styles, with seams that fit close to the body but feel light to the touch. So whether you invest in a high-street iteration (see Labo.Art, Frau and Gant), a more premium piece (courtesy of Tod’s and McQueen) or choose our preferred option, exploring the many pieces out there, know that timelessness and versatility are two investments that you will not regret making. Just ask the old man on the tube, and head below for LE MILE’s best offerings to master your transitional style. You’re welcome.

Mariana wears a jacket by DAVII, a top by MAX MARA, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, a hat by TRIPPAT, jewellery by SWAROVSKI, a belt by GANT and tights by WOLFORD

Mariana wears a cardigan by TORY BURCH, a shirt by LOUIS VUITTON, shorts by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, pants by MORDECAI and glasses by CALVIN KLEIN JEANS

Mariana wears a coat by GIOVANNI GEROSA, a sweater by GAS JEANS, a shirt by TOMMY HILFIGER, a skirt by BRIONI, tights by CALZEDONIA and boots by GIUSEPPE ZANOTTI

Mariana wears a jumpsuit, shirt and shoes by MCQUEEN, and tights by CALZEDONIA

Mariana wears a blazer by MICHAEL KORS, a shirt and skirt by FERRAGAMO, a shirt by LABO.ART, shoes by A.BOCCA, a scarf by BRIONI and tights by CALZEDONIA

Mariana wears a cardigan by GANT, sweaters by TOMMY HILFIGER and MRZ, a maxi skirt by MAX MARA and a skirt by TORY BURCH

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model MARIANA GONCALVES via ELITE MILAN + ELITE MODEL WORLD
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
production assistant LORIS VOTTERO
fashion assistants JÁZMIN TÖRÖK + ANGELINA PERSIANI + ALESSANDRO GIANESIN + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + PAULINA LUISE GRUNWALD + VALENTINA INVERARDI

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

FW25 Womenswear - Winter Breath by Chris Saulnier

.digital
WINTER BREATH IN NEW YORK

Winter arrives without ceremony and breath becomes visible, movement slows, and the city begins to speak in smaller gestures. Streets empty, light softens, and New York settles into a different rhythm. A figure moves through this landscape, pausing, observing, carrying the weight of the season in posture. The cold presses close, sharpening senses and drawing attention to details often overlooked, the hush between buildings, the drag of fabric, the sound of wind against concrete.

Maria wears a dress by OOTO, a coat by Mola Walker, and a bag by Radica Studio

Nothing insists on being explained, instead, the city holds space for reflection, for quiet persistence, for the intimacy that winter creates. Winter Breath stays with that feeling, letting atmosphere guide the narrative and allowing the season to leave its mark slowly, deliberately, and without urgency.

Maria wears a trench coat and striped shirt by Wàngda, a bag by Behno, pants by Pence, and shoes by Femme Liberee

Maria wears a coat by Wàngda, a top with tie by Mola Walker, a skirt by Pier Antonio Gaspari, and shoes by Femme Liberee

Maria wears a green skirt and knit fur top by Pier Antonio Gaspari, a coat by Wàngda, and a bag by KALIEDDIE

photography + direction CHRIS SAULNIER
styling EDGAR LÓPEZ DÁVILA
stylist assistant CITLALI VILLANUEVA
model MJ MARTE
director of photography KENNY SULE
photography assistant JISHNU CHOWDHURY
hair styling HIDE SUZUKI
make up ANNA KURIHARA
producer KAITLIN BANAFSHEHA
color grading MAXIME VEIGNEAU

credits
all Images and film (c) LE MILE and Chris Saulnier

FW25 Menswear - Truly, Softly, Preppy with Simone Pollastri

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TRULY, SOFTLY, PREPPY
*with Simone Pollastri

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

For youngsters, in a society where the tides of change are evolving with increasingly ferocious pace, it’s a painful time to tell stories about the arts. For some, these are times shaped by transitions, informed by choices and decisions that helped define the state of our world—with a gumption to envision the future not as a destination, but as a point of greater clarity and a personal journey. For Milan-hailed creative Simone Pollastri, this year epitomised such an example: a time where he closed chapters, both professionally and personally, that no longer aligned with his vision or direction.

Simone wears a long-sleeved top by DSQUARED2, pants by SETCHU, shoes by ZEGNA, and jewellery by SWAROVSKI

Simone wears a jacket and pants by TAN, and shirts by MOSCHINO and ALESSANDRO GHERARDI

“I tend to set ambitious goals and see change as a necessary part of growth, rather than something to resist,” he tells me, with no peacocking braggadocio on display. “Both positive and challenging experiences contributed to a more focused mindset and a stronger sense of direction. Today, I feel more grounded and confident in the path I’m taking, aware that this phase is simply another step forward, not a final outcome.” His practice moves across a wealth of fields, all driven by the same approach to storytelling and aesthetics. “I’m naturally curious, drawn to movement, change and new challenges, and I try to channel my passions—namely, travel, sport and creativity—into a cohesive way of working and living,” he reflects. Pollastri works as a filmmaker and creative director through his production house, FilmVisual, where he develops visual campaigns and digital productions for fashion and sports brands.

“Alongside this, I recently co-founded TAN, an independent brand that represents a more personal extension of my creative vision,” he adds. “For me, creation is less about fitting into categorised roles and more about building a language that feels honest, dynamic and constantly evolving,” heconcludes, his face filled with excitement. But there’s more to the story, which you’ll probably read here first. You’re welcome.

Simone wears a brown sweater by ZEGNA, a black sweater by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, a shirt by TOM FORD, pants by DSQUARED2, shoes by CHURCH’S, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Simone wears a jacket by THE FRANKIE SHOP, a shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DIESEL, shoes by BEPOSITIVE, and a tie by TOM FORD

Chidozie Obasi
Taking a trip back memory lane: what’s your earliest approach with the creative field and with fashion, in particular?

Simone Pollastri
My earliest approach to creativity didn’t begin with fashion, but with images. At eighteen, I discovered photography and video almost by chance, and immediately felt drawn to the idea of using visuals as a personal language. What fascinated me wasn’t just the technical aspect, but the possibility of communicating what I had to say at that specific moment in my life through images, movement and storytelling. Over time, I started to realise how closely that process was tied to my own growth: how my perception of what felt beautiful or meaningful evolved alongside me. Fashion entered my path later, through visual work and collaborations, but always filtered through this lens. I never approached it as a system to belong to, but as a space where I could apply a subjective, evolving sense of aesthetics. That relationship with images remains the foundation of everything I do today.

You’re also a fond travel aficionado: how did such longing come about, and how has it blossomed over time?

I don’t think there was a precise moment when my desire to travel began: it has always felt like something inherent. Growing up, I often felt the need to look beyond my immediate surroundings. Travel represents the possibility to observe, understand and experience what exists outside of one’s own bubble. Over time, this curiosity became a driving force and naturally intertwined with my work.

Beside the fixtures of the fashion and travel realms, you’ve also dabbled into the world of film and motion storytelling...

Film and motion storytelling were never a separate ambition for me. Rather than stemming from a single moment, they emerged as a natural evolution of how I wanted to communicate ideas. Over time, I realised that still images alone weren’t enough: I was drawn to rhythm, sequencing and atmosphere. Motion allowed me to build narratives, not just visuals.

Today, film is less a discipline and more a framework, and that is precisely why I chose to found and work through my production house, FilmVisual. It’s the language I naturally return to when I want to translate a vision into something tangible.

As you’ve travelled and experienced many sides of the world, what values and lessons have you gained?

Travel has played a fundamental role in shaping both my personal and creative growth. I often see travel as a process of accumulation rather than escape. You leave with a blank page, and along the way it fills with impressions and perspectives. The most valuable lesson travel has taught me is inclusion; the ability to question your own point of view and remain open to complexities.

Simone wears a cardigan by NN.07, a sweater by EXTREME CASHMERE, a shirt by TOMMY HILFIGER, shorts by MOSCHINO, pants by CELINE, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Could you unpack your biggest pinch-me moment from your professional journey, thus far?

My biggest pinch-me moment wasn’t tied to a milestone client, but to an experience that made me fully realise the path I had chosen. It happened during a work trip to Alaska, where travel, extreme sport and visual storytelling converged. That moment made it clear to me that, had I followed a more conventional route, many of those experiences wouldn’t have been possible. It reminded me of the importance of listening to myself and trusting the direction I had chosen.

How do you envision the future of influence and of the digital world at large?

I believe the shift within this industry has already happened. Today, influence is less about reach and more about relevance. Projects like TAN and FilmVisual are built on credibility, continuity and long-term vision. In a saturated digital environment, value and authenticity are what endure.

Leaning on your newly-founded brand venture, how did it all come about?

TAN was born from a clear and shared decision: the desire to stop expressing our creativity solely through other brands and start building a world of our own. Together with close friends, we felt the need to create something that genuinely reflected who we are: our relationship with the sea, sport, movement and travel. From the beginning, TAN was never conceived as a conventional fashion project. It’s a lifestyle-driven platform where the product exists within a broader context of experiences, community and storytelling. TAN is, and will remain, an independent Italian brand developed by friends, rooted in our lifestyle and designed to evolve without losing its identity.

Is there a wish to scale it and expand its base to international markets?

Our priority is to build a tangible relationship with people and allow them to experience our world firsthand. International expansion is welcome, but not chased. If a vision is authentic and well-rooted, it naturally travels. Rather than pursuing rapid growth, we’re focused on building something that lasts.

Any other exciting projects in the pipeline?

At this stage, my focus doesn’t lie in unveiling new projects, but on consolidating what already exists. The priority is to continue building TAN with intention, allowing it to grow into a solid and independent reality. Alongside its digital evolution, we’re interested in making the project more tangible. In the future, we’d love to open a physical space; not conceived as a traditional store, but as a creative hub. A place that can act as a meeting point for our community, where we can host events, music, gatherings and collaborative moments, and where the brand can be experienced beyond the product itself. Similarly, I want to keep developing FilmVisual. These two realities complement each other and represent the space where I feel most aligned. Looking ahead, my ambition is to grow both projects with patience, clarity and consistency, while expanding TAN organically, creating spaces and experiences that allow people to genuinely connect with our vision.

Simone wears a blazer and pants by HED MAYNER, a shirt by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Simone wears a jacket by THE FRANKIE SHOP, a shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DIESEL, shoes by ZEGNA, and a tie by TOM FORD

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up KIM GUTIERREZ via STUDIO REPOSSI using FENTY BEAUTY and for skincare THE ORDINARY
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model SIMONE POLLASTRI via WANNABE MGMTP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
production assistant LORIS VOTTERO
fashion assistants ALESSANDRO GIANESIN + SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + DINA LABADI + MATILDE DALLA PIAZZA + MARIANA RAPOSO

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

FW25 Menswear - Retro Spotlight

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RETRO SPOTLIGHT
*with Simone Bredariol

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

As seen across the Fall runways, the appeal of pared-back minimalism has yet to wane – and, whatever your style-driven proclivities, this season has plenty to choose from.

Whether you prefer your slouchy tailoring with a twist, or your airy goods slightly functional, here’s how to wear this season’s minimal offerings with maximum impact. Our wardrobe will naturally shift throughout the year, but Fall is the season when the weather dictates your clothing choices the most: from Zegna’s pristine tailoring, Dolce&Gabbana’s clean-cut suiting to Etro’s wear-anywhere ease, you’ll want a roster of reliable, classic pieces to make getting ready every day so much easier. It can sometimes feel like a conundrum to remain snazzy amid the depths of winter, but these 7 looks are a failsafe way to keep things cool, and in line, for you. And the most important message? Keep it breezy. You’re welcome.

Simone wears a blazer by DOLCE & GABBANA, a jacket by CASCINELLI, a sweater by CALVIN KLEIN, a jumpsuit by HED MAYNER, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Simone wears a total look by ZEGNA

Simone wears a sweater by ZEGNA, a shirt by ALESSANDRO GHERARDI, and pants by SETCHU

Simone wears a blazer and vest by EMPORIO ARMANI, and pants by CANALI

Simone wears a sweater by ETRO, a shirt by BRIONI, and pants by SANDRO

Simone wears a cardigan by AVANT-TOI, and pants by ZEGNA

Simone wears a sweater by FILIPPO DE LAURENTIS, and pants by HED MAYNER

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up KIM GUTIERREZ via STUDIO REPOSSI using FENTY BEAUTY and for skincare THE ORDINARY
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model SIMONE BREDARIOL via DMANAGEMENTGROUP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
production assistant LORIS VOTTERO
fashion assistants ALESSANDRO GIANESIN + SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + DINA LABADI + MATILDE DALLA PIAZZA + MARIANA RAPOSO

FW25 Menswear - Home Break

.digital
HOME BREAK
*with Christian Frascaro + Francesco Crisitiano

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The longing for timelessness has been a forerunner in fashion’s stakes in recent years, making its presence felt across the sartorial spectrum: from the designer runways to the rails of high-street favourites, its wear-anywhere appeal has sparked the yearn of many.

Of course, this concept is by no means a modern phenomenon, and its history stretches back to the centuries of creativity of fuss-free apparel within the menswear arena, that have managed to retain that sense of ageless elegance right up to the present day: thanks to the wealth of options that span across tailored constructions to their structured credentials, clothes that last are an investment to a man’s wardrobe. But the question is: how do we make these classics feel directional in 2025? Brace yourselves.

As modeled ever brilliantly by Francesco Cristiano and Christian Frascaro, these versatile silhouettes come in everything from Prada’s skin-tight separates to swishy Brioni’s outerwear to structured canvas from Celine and cotton checks from Isabel Marant. Acting as a solid foundation for an everyday outfit – especially during the winter months – the right staple can truly smarten up any outfit, or add a touch of nonchalance to a formal essential. Below, LE MILE’s edit has you covered. You’re welcome.

Christian wears a blazer and shirt by ZEGNA with pants by CELINE. Francesco wears a coat by CELINE, a jacket by RIER, a shirt by ISABEL MARANT, and pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati.

Francesco wears a total look by PRADA

Christian wears a total look by PRADA

Christian wears a sweater by FERRAGAMO, a long-sleeved top by LABO.ART, and pants by QUARTO ATTO. Francesco wears a sweater by CELINE and pants by ZEGNA.

Kaisla wears a hat by LORO PIANA, a dress and bag by FERRAGAMO, and shoes by JIMMY CHOO

Francesco wears a total look by GUCCI

Christian wears a sweater by ZEGNA, a t-shirt by CELINE, and pants by BRIONI. Francesco wears a shirt by CELINE, a sweater by ZEGNA, and pants by CELINE.

Christian wears a coat, blazer, and scarf by BRIONI, a sweater by ISABEL MARANT, a shirt and pants by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Francesco D’Amico

seen FRANCESCO D’AMICO
creative fashion direction CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up MARTA CUPAIOLI via MKS MILANO
hair GIUSEPPE DI GUGLIELMO via MKS MILANO
talents CHRISTIAN FRASCARO + FRANCESCO CRISTIANO
photography assistant QUENTIN BUTTIN
fashion assistants CHARISSE ORDINARIA + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE + SIMONA VERNAZZA

FW25 Women and Men - Breathe & Behold

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BREATHE + BEHOLD
*by Kristian Presnal

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

As the Fall 2025 shows have proven, finding the perfect equation for a faraway escape is no mean feat: choosing to embrace playfulness, understanding proportion play and toying with volumes from a wealth of styles can come in handy to solve conundrums of these kinds.

Thus, brace yourselves: ever since the term quiet luxury was adopted by the luxury and medium houses, offerings have delivered uncomplicated versions of pieces we wear day-in-day-out: from classic dresses and separates to a heightened sense of ease and coats, to name but a few. While many trends have fallen by the wayside, several years on, the Nordic region remains strong in its timeless—yet subtly experimental—vision, and its landscapes as well as collections are no different.

LE MILE’s Fashion Director dipped into the Hanaholmen’s naturalesque setting and directed a visual story that’s worth your attention. Highlights include the perfect wool-blend structured jacket (pair with the equally lust-worthy skirt and loaders) from Loro Piana, a breezy option from Issey Miyake, nut-coloured blazers from Random Identities by Stefano Pilati, which will make for an appealing alternative to your usual true browns, tongue-in-cheek toppers from Rolf Ekroth and double-breasted piece from Valentino. Scroll on for these and many more gems, and become the embodiment of this season’s versatile spirit. You’re welcome.

both models wear total looks by VALENTINO

both models wear total looks by LORO PIANA with eyewear by TOM FORD

Aamos wears a hat by CELINE, eyewear by TOM FORD, blazer, shirt and pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, a jumper by AVANT TOI, and shoes by DOLCE & GABBANA

both models wear total looks by MCQUEEN with eyewear by TOM FORD

Aamos wears a shirt by MOSCHINO, and a top and trousers by ROLF EKROTH

Kaisla wears a total look by ISSEY MIYAKE

Aamos wears a striped shirt, pants and shoes by CELINE, a white shirt by BRIONI, a belt by DOLCE & GABBANA, and eyewear by TOM FORD

Kaisla wears a hat by LORO PIANA, a dress and bag by FERRAGAMO, and shoes by JIMMY CHOO

Kaisla wears a dress by JIL SANDER and shoes by JIMMY CHOO

Aamos wears a full look by MOSCHINO (also header image)

both models wear full looks by DOLCE & GABBANA

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Kristian Presnal

seen KRISTIAN PRESNAL
creative fashion direction CHIDOZIE OBASI
fashion LUCA ROSEI
make up MARIA BOUCHT
hair JONNA OJALA
photo assistant SEAN LEINO
models AAMOS VIKBERG + KAISLA VILJAKAINEN

Hotel Hanaholmen
Hanaholmen is both a cultural and cooperation centre for Sweden and Finland, as well as a boutique hotel with a renowned restaurant. Located just six kilometres from central Helsinki, it offers guests a serene escape amid the beauty of the archipelago atmosphere. The Hanaholmen Hotel is a distinctive fusion of 1970s modernism, Nordic art, and contemporary comfort. Its interiors reflect a thoughtful dialogue between classic Scandinavian design and modern craftsmanship, creating an atmosphere of understated elegance and calm.The hotel features a beautifully preserved 1970s pool and sauna area, complemented by a striking mirrored-glass sauna offering a 360-degree view of the surrounding nature. In early 2026, Hanaholmen will unveil ten new junior suites, designed by Jukka Halminen of KOKO3, further enhancing the hotel’s dialogue between heritage and innovation.