SS26 Menswear - FUNCTION AND FINESSE with Umberto Villahermosa

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FUNCTION AND FINESSE
*with Umberto Villahermosa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

For Italian talent Umberto Villahermosa, a lifestyle pundit whose affection with outdoor sports and art goes back in time, the past year has marked a transition in his path. “I started a clothing brand and I’m learning how to manage my time around working as a model, while building a solid base,” he says, cosily, as we begin to settle into our conversation.

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA, pants by QUARTO ATTO, and shoes by CANALI

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

“It’s been a big challenge, but I’m willing to take it, and it brought a new fire of longing within me.” Since childhood, he’s always been a very creatively-driven kid, and aged fifteen he began building his own surfboards. “It’s only really when I moved over to Milano to study Economics that I understood I was drawn more towards creative disciplines like painting, photography and design,” he confesses. “I’ve always lived with the mentality of making something myself rather than buying it,” he adds. Umberto kicked off his modeling career because of his grandmother, who worked for the Italian house Fendi when she was younger. “She told me that I could work well as a model,” he says, “and took me, just like a scouter, to who’s still my current mother agency.”

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

He wasn’t considering that becoming reality at first, but as he began to work he realised that it was interesting and unique, and that he much preferred honing such practice than working as a finance professional or in a corporate office as his life was originally meant to be. “The uprise of socials during those years also gave me a further opportunity to express myself and release a vision of who I was under my own lens, and that was such a lovely medley of accumulated experiences and sources of inspiration that once again drove me more towards the realm of creativity,” he says. “At the time, I was also motivated by the love I gained on social media, which could also be a slippery slope for obvious mental health reasons,” he reflects. As for the rest? Well, there’s more to the story, which you’ll probably read here first. You’re welcome.

Umberto wears a coat by ACT N1, a shirt by CANAKU, pants by THE NOUR, shoes by JIMMY CHOO, and an archive tie

Chidozie Obasi
Could you unpack your biggest career feats?

Umberto Villahermosa
During the past twelve years of my career, I’d say some of my proudest jobs are my first lookbook shoots for brands such as Versace, Dolce&Gabbana but also shows during fashion week, for example my first ever shows such as MSGM or Philipp Plein. I'm talking about those beginning jobs because I still remember the enthusiasm levels to this day.

How about the complex moments you’ve had?

I would refer as complex moments the fact that modelling, such as a lot of other creative jobs, is not a super stable career, there’s lots of ups and downs and those downturns can be understandably harsh if you don’t have a solid mindset that comes with understanding the idea that you cannot have control over every single facet of your path.

As a model and talent with such a broad experience and portfolio, how did you manage to stay afloat amid the system’s downturns?

I highly believe in professionality and humanity as fundamental values, no matter what the work environment is. You can have your face on all the magazine covers and on the biggest brand campaigns, but if you show up at work late and you treat others badly because you think you are superior, I would personally not hire you to represent my brand. I think I have always respected that and it definitely helped to keep me afloat.

Umberto wears a total look by LORO PIANA

Moving onto your brand, could you expand on it and specify how you are hoping to scale it further?

During my climbing years, I noticed I couldn’t find a comfortable pair of pants to practice such activity outdoors and that would protect my knees and shins from scratches that you would get from hitting granite rock. Therefore, I started climbing with karate pants that were very comfortable in terms of flexibility, but that wouldn’t protect enough from scratches. I decided to make my own climbing because I like to experiment with patterns and create destructured designs that are now the most sold, and that’s how Sasso People was born. I also give the opportunity to customers to have a custom sizing for maximum comfort, and I’m committed to having the closest possible to zero waste repurposing the fabric scraps into accessories and climbing bags. I transformed my living room into my studio, and I currently make everything by hand. It’s doable but I’m at maximum capacity. The big challenge will be to expand with production outsourcing, but in a way that I can maintain the same level of craftsmanship and low environmental impact because these, together with building a healthy and inclusive community, are the main values of the brand.

What’s next for you?

I will surely continue working as a model, keep developing the brand and find solutions to get to a broader public and grow the community. On a more personal level, I promised myself to work on my mental health and take care of myself a little more.

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO and pants by THE LATEST

Umberto wears an overshirt by PAUL SMITH, a shirt and pants by LABO.ART, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Umberto wears a tank top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Umberto wears a blazer by HED MAYNER, pants by THE LATEST, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD and EUPHORIA NEW

Umberto wears a shirt by GRIFONI and pants by PHYSIQUE DU ROLE and MEIMEIJ

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model UMBERTO VILLAHERMOSA via INDEPENDENT MGMT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

FW25 Menswear - Truly, Softly, Preppy with Simone Pollastri

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TRULY, SOFTLY, PREPPY
*with Simone Pollastri

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

For youngsters, in a society where the tides of change are evolving with increasingly ferocious pace, it’s a painful time to tell stories about the arts. For some, these are times shaped by transitions, informed by choices and decisions that helped define the state of our world—with a gumption to envision the future not as a destination, but as a point of greater clarity and a personal journey. For Milan-hailed creative Simone Pollastri, this year epitomised such an example: a time where he closed chapters, both professionally and personally, that no longer aligned with his vision or direction.

Simone wears a long-sleeved top by DSQUARED2, pants by SETCHU, shoes by ZEGNA, and jewellery by SWAROVSKI

Simone wears a jacket and pants by TAN, and shirts by MOSCHINO and ALESSANDRO GHERARDI

“I tend to set ambitious goals and see change as a necessary part of growth, rather than something to resist,” he tells me, with no peacocking braggadocio on display. “Both positive and challenging experiences contributed to a more focused mindset and a stronger sense of direction. Today, I feel more grounded and confident in the path I’m taking, aware that this phase is simply another step forward, not a final outcome.” His practice moves across a wealth of fields, all driven by the same approach to storytelling and aesthetics. “I’m naturally curious, drawn to movement, change and new challenges, and I try to channel my passions—namely, travel, sport and creativity—into a cohesive way of working and living,” he reflects. Pollastri works as a filmmaker and creative director through his production house, FilmVisual, where he develops visual campaigns and digital productions for fashion and sports brands.

“Alongside this, I recently co-founded TAN, an independent brand that represents a more personal extension of my creative vision,” he adds. “For me, creation is less about fitting into categorised roles and more about building a language that feels honest, dynamic and constantly evolving,” heconcludes, his face filled with excitement. But there’s more to the story, which you’ll probably read here first. You’re welcome.

Simone wears a brown sweater by ZEGNA, a black sweater by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, a shirt by TOM FORD, pants by DSQUARED2, shoes by CHURCH’S, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Simone wears a jacket by THE FRANKIE SHOP, a shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DIESEL, shoes by BEPOSITIVE, and a tie by TOM FORD

Chidozie Obasi
Taking a trip back memory lane: what’s your earliest approach with the creative field and with fashion, in particular?

Simone Pollastri
My earliest approach to creativity didn’t begin with fashion, but with images. At eighteen, I discovered photography and video almost by chance, and immediately felt drawn to the idea of using visuals as a personal language. What fascinated me wasn’t just the technical aspect, but the possibility of communicating what I had to say at that specific moment in my life through images, movement and storytelling. Over time, I started to realise how closely that process was tied to my own growth: how my perception of what felt beautiful or meaningful evolved alongside me. Fashion entered my path later, through visual work and collaborations, but always filtered through this lens. I never approached it as a system to belong to, but as a space where I could apply a subjective, evolving sense of aesthetics. That relationship with images remains the foundation of everything I do today.

You’re also a fond travel aficionado: how did such longing come about, and how has it blossomed over time?

I don’t think there was a precise moment when my desire to travel began: it has always felt like something inherent. Growing up, I often felt the need to look beyond my immediate surroundings. Travel represents the possibility to observe, understand and experience what exists outside of one’s own bubble. Over time, this curiosity became a driving force and naturally intertwined with my work.

Beside the fixtures of the fashion and travel realms, you’ve also dabbled into the world of film and motion storytelling...

Film and motion storytelling were never a separate ambition for me. Rather than stemming from a single moment, they emerged as a natural evolution of how I wanted to communicate ideas. Over time, I realised that still images alone weren’t enough: I was drawn to rhythm, sequencing and atmosphere. Motion allowed me to build narratives, not just visuals.

Today, film is less a discipline and more a framework, and that is precisely why I chose to found and work through my production house, FilmVisual. It’s the language I naturally return to when I want to translate a vision into something tangible.

As you’ve travelled and experienced many sides of the world, what values and lessons have you gained?

Travel has played a fundamental role in shaping both my personal and creative growth. I often see travel as a process of accumulation rather than escape. You leave with a blank page, and along the way it fills with impressions and perspectives. The most valuable lesson travel has taught me is inclusion; the ability to question your own point of view and remain open to complexities.

Simone wears a cardigan by NN.07, a sweater by EXTREME CASHMERE, a shirt by TOMMY HILFIGER, shorts by MOSCHINO, pants by CELINE, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Could you unpack your biggest pinch-me moment from your professional journey, thus far?

My biggest pinch-me moment wasn’t tied to a milestone client, but to an experience that made me fully realise the path I had chosen. It happened during a work trip to Alaska, where travel, extreme sport and visual storytelling converged. That moment made it clear to me that, had I followed a more conventional route, many of those experiences wouldn’t have been possible. It reminded me of the importance of listening to myself and trusting the direction I had chosen.

How do you envision the future of influence and of the digital world at large?

I believe the shift within this industry has already happened. Today, influence is less about reach and more about relevance. Projects like TAN and FilmVisual are built on credibility, continuity and long-term vision. In a saturated digital environment, value and authenticity are what endure.

Leaning on your newly-founded brand venture, how did it all come about?

TAN was born from a clear and shared decision: the desire to stop expressing our creativity solely through other brands and start building a world of our own. Together with close friends, we felt the need to create something that genuinely reflected who we are: our relationship with the sea, sport, movement and travel. From the beginning, TAN was never conceived as a conventional fashion project. It’s a lifestyle-driven platform where the product exists within a broader context of experiences, community and storytelling. TAN is, and will remain, an independent Italian brand developed by friends, rooted in our lifestyle and designed to evolve without losing its identity.

Is there a wish to scale it and expand its base to international markets?

Our priority is to build a tangible relationship with people and allow them to experience our world firsthand. International expansion is welcome, but not chased. If a vision is authentic and well-rooted, it naturally travels. Rather than pursuing rapid growth, we’re focused on building something that lasts.

Any other exciting projects in the pipeline?

At this stage, my focus doesn’t lie in unveiling new projects, but on consolidating what already exists. The priority is to continue building TAN with intention, allowing it to grow into a solid and independent reality. Alongside its digital evolution, we’re interested in making the project more tangible. In the future, we’d love to open a physical space; not conceived as a traditional store, but as a creative hub. A place that can act as a meeting point for our community, where we can host events, music, gatherings and collaborative moments, and where the brand can be experienced beyond the product itself. Similarly, I want to keep developing FilmVisual. These two realities complement each other and represent the space where I feel most aligned. Looking ahead, my ambition is to grow both projects with patience, clarity and consistency, while expanding TAN organically, creating spaces and experiences that allow people to genuinely connect with our vision.

Simone wears a blazer and pants by HED MAYNER, a shirt by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Simone wears a jacket by THE FRANKIE SHOP, a shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DIESEL, shoes by ZEGNA, and a tie by TOM FORD

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up KIM GUTIERREZ via STUDIO REPOSSI using FENTY BEAUTY and for skincare THE ORDINARY
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model SIMONE POLLASTRI via WANNABE MGMTP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
production assistant LORIS VOTTERO
fashion assistants ALESSANDRO GIANESIN + SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + DINA LABADI + MATILDE DALLA PIAZZA + MARIANA RAPOSO

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

FW25 Menswear - Retro Spotlight

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RETRO SPOTLIGHT
*with Simone Bredariol

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

As seen across the Fall runways, the appeal of pared-back minimalism has yet to wane – and, whatever your style-driven proclivities, this season has plenty to choose from.

Whether you prefer your slouchy tailoring with a twist, or your airy goods slightly functional, here’s how to wear this season’s minimal offerings with maximum impact. Our wardrobe will naturally shift throughout the year, but Fall is the season when the weather dictates your clothing choices the most: from Zegna’s pristine tailoring, Dolce&Gabbana’s clean-cut suiting to Etro’s wear-anywhere ease, you’ll want a roster of reliable, classic pieces to make getting ready every day so much easier. It can sometimes feel like a conundrum to remain snazzy amid the depths of winter, but these 7 looks are a failsafe way to keep things cool, and in line, for you. And the most important message? Keep it breezy. You’re welcome.

Simone wears a blazer by DOLCE & GABBANA, a jacket by CASCINELLI, a sweater by CALVIN KLEIN, a jumpsuit by HED MAYNER, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Simone wears a total look by ZEGNA

Simone wears a sweater by ZEGNA, a shirt by ALESSANDRO GHERARDI, and pants by SETCHU

Simone wears a blazer and vest by EMPORIO ARMANI, and pants by CANALI

Simone wears a sweater by ETRO, a shirt by BRIONI, and pants by SANDRO

Simone wears a cardigan by AVANT-TOI, and pants by ZEGNA

Simone wears a sweater by FILIPPO DE LAURENTIS, and pants by HED MAYNER

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up KIM GUTIERREZ via STUDIO REPOSSI using FENTY BEAUTY and for skincare THE ORDINARY
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model SIMONE BREDARIOL via DMANAGEMENTGROUP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
production assistant LORIS VOTTERO
fashion assistants ALESSANDRO GIANESIN + SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + DINA LABADI + MATILDE DALLA PIAZZA + MARIANA RAPOSO