SS26 Menswear - THE QUIET POWER of Mergim Shabani

.digital

The Quiet Power Of Mërgim Shabani

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Kosovo-born, Vienna-hailed talent Mërgim Shabani kicked off his creative path that didn’t follow the customary trajectory in this realm. “I was very focused on sports and football growing up, but maybe because I’m left-handed and played football with my left foot, I had to learn early on how to adapt — and approach things in a more creative way,” he says.

Mërgim wears blazer, pants and belt by LOUIS VUITTON, shirts by CARUSO and ZEGNA and shoes by CHURCH’S

At the same time, Shabani was in touch with fashion from a young age, especially with Prada. “My uncle, who owned a variety of Prada shoes, had a strong influence on me,” he recalls, the moment we begin to settle in our conversation. “It was probably my first experience with something that felt more premium and intentional compared to other clothing, and it stayed with me,” he adds. Below, LE MILE grabs five with Shabani; unpacking all things influence, mental health and future hopes. You’re welcome.

Mërgim wears a total look by GUCCI

Mërgim wears a total look by PRADA

Chidozie Obasi
In an age permeated by saturation and social downturns, the word ‘influence’ - and its wealth of denotations - acquires a huge relevance and, in turn, prominence nowadays. How do you use your platforms and position to inform what’s going on in the world, and how/where do you see the future of socials heading to?

Mergim Shabani
We are all dependent on platforms today, but that also means they are an opportunity — and for me, that opportunity is a gift. There were people who inspired me and made it possible for me to even have a platform and a certain level of influence. The more I appreciate that, the more I want to be my most authentic self. I believe that when you are truly yourself, you can step away from competition more easily. When it comes to informing others, I don’t see myself in a position to lecture people about the complex state of the world. There’s a phrase I believe in: you can’t fix your home and you’re trying to fix the world. For me, that means doing the inner work first — becoming someone who contributes positively to their own community and tribe, instead of speaking on situations you don’t really have influence over.

Could you unpack what the most complex moments of your job are, and how you grapple with your mental health - particularly in a sea of numbers dictated by tractions?

I think the most complex moments are the ones where you have to constantly develop new skill sets and reach new levels, because you always want to become better.
Through that process, I learned an important lesson for my mental health: I never question myself as a human — my character or my value — but I do question my skills in a tough, honest way. That distinction is important. It allows me to improve without losing stability. I can be critical of my work, but still stay grounded in who I am.

Mërgim wears a jacket and top by CELINE and pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati

Mërgim wears a tank top by LOUIS VUITTON, a hat by PAUL SMITH and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Mërgim wears a jacket by ISABEL MARANT, tank top by EXTREME CASHMERE, shirt by CANALI, pants by QUARTO ATTO, hat by LORO PIANA and tie by POLO RALPH LAUREN

What are you focusing on right now?

There are a few things I can speak about, and others I still prefer to keep quiet for now.
I have a store called Odë in Vienna with a partner, and we are now moving into online sales and worldwide shipping. It’s not just a fashion store or a boutique — it’s a space where people can experience our taste and perspective. I’m also developing Tempo Wellness Club, which is my own sports and movement brand. It will include a lot of my routines, workouts, and overall philosophy. Alongside that, I’m working on other product-based projects that I’m personally very connected to. I’m not ready to speak on them yet, but they will be visible soon.

What’s next for you? Any future hopes?

I’m constantly developing new skills and perspectives, so I see this as a phase where I’m stepping into a new level. At the same time, I see myself as a lifelong student of life. I want to stay productive, continue building, and provide for my people — my tribe — but also create moments where I can step back and appreciate the life I’ve built with those around me.
Hope is something that has a strong meaning to me. You can see it in a person’s eyes when it’s still there, and it’s something worth protecting. My hope for the future is to become a version of myself that gives more than he takes.

Mërgim wears shorts and hat by LORO PIANA

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seen COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion EDWARD PUSCA
make up KIM GUTIERREZ via STUDIO REPOSSI using DOLCE&GABBANA BEAUTY
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
talent MËRGIM SHABANI via NEXT MILAN
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SOFIA FARINA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + ISABELLA RUIZ

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - IVAN, UNFILTERED with Ivan Ugrin

.digital

IVAN, UNFILTERED
*with Ivan Ugrin

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Croatian-born, Amsterdam-hailed multidisciplinary artist Ivan Ugrin spent the last decade finding and shaping his stride. “I’ve been a professional contemporary dancer for fifteen years, with stints as a movement director and a model,” he tells LE MILE’s Fashion Market Director, Chidozie Obasi, the moment they meet in Spring, during a sun-soaked day in Milan ahead.

Ivan wears a total look by DIOR

The past year was a rough one for everyone around him, himself included. “It was a year of monumental changes, but also a year of big personal growth,” he shares, adding how he feels very proud of how far he’s come. “I changed my creative field, going from the contemporary dance world into a more fashion-driven realm,” he says. “My modeling career kicked off, and I honestly feel very grateful and blessed to be where I am right now,” he adds. Below, we grabbed five with Ugrin to unpack influences, career feats and future hopes.

Ivan wears a sweater by MICHAEL KORS and underwear by ISABEL MARANT

Chidozie Obasi
Who’s been your biggest influence while growing up?

Ivan Ugrin
Growing up, I was a very goofy kid that would play out scenes from Jim Carrey movies, especially Ace Ventura, as I really admired him. To this day, I still quote a lot of the jokes and physical humor.

Could you unpack your biggest career feats so far?

I don't really look at my career as one big feat after the other. But rather, I take pride in a lot of small, but equally meaningful events, like every time I premiere a piece. Or when my mom came to see me perform for the first time when I was twenty five years old (and then secondly when I was thirty three (she only saw me on stage twice). I’m also thrilled when a person who attends the show comes to me after it, telling me how the performance impacted them. I’m also elated when I catch a glance of a friend in the audience that I had no clue he was going to be there that night. In the past, I performed a lot for kids, and putting up a show for them made me fall in love with performing even more. I performed this kids’ play titled TETRIS by Erik Kaiel in a Palestinian refugee camp in Jordan. It was one of the most beautiful and heartwarming experiences of my career; the kind of experience that reminds you of the power of art.

And touching on the complex moments and, in turn, rejections, how have they shaped your persona?

No one likes rejections, but no one knows rejections better than performing artists. I personally have been rejected a lot of times. So much so that I have not passed a single audition in my career. I don’t do well under that kind of pressure, and I feel in the audition setting I’m unable to show my full potential. For all the jobs I’ve undertaken, I was either recommended by my peers or I personally wrote to choreographers directly, expressing my desire to work with them. So I’d say that these situations have impacted me a lot as a young dancer. I had to deal with most of them on my own, understanding I should not take every rejection to heart. Some things are just a matter of timing and luck.

Ivan wears a total look by PRADA

Ivan wears a sweater by ISABEL MARANT, shirt by LOUIS VUITTON, shorts by LESSICO FAMILIARE and shoes by CHURCH’S

Where did you study, and how has your path in dance been?

When I was eighteen, I moved to Zagreb to study Veterinary medicine. That same year I started dancing Jazz twice a week at TALA Dance Center in Zagreb. I didn't know much about dance at that time apart from how it felt in my body and how it made me feel. Dancing felt good, it felt right: It felt like I finally found my passion. Those hours spent in the studio made me feel free without any worry. I was told by my teachers that I was talented, but it was hard for me to understand that at the time. All I knew is that I wanted to be as good as I can be and I wanted to dance. I enrolled at Amsterdam School of The Arts, at the Modern Theater Dance department. I skipped a year, so I finished 4 years of education in three years, landing a graduation in 2013. After that moment, I worked mainly as a freelancer, most noticeably with Arno Schuitemaker and Connor Schumacher. I was part of a ICK/Emio Greco Pieter Scholten company in 2016 for a year, while they were artistic directors of Ballet National de Marseilles.

You’re also taking ballet classes, correct?

Yes, I still take ballet classes a bunch of times a week. During the week, as my daily practice I mix Yoga, Ballet and weight training at the gym. Nothing prepares you for dancing like classical training.

What projects are you working on?

This is a good opportunity to say that I am free and ready to work on new projects as I’m about to perform the last shows in the Netherlands, in beautiful pieces I am part of.

What’s next for you?

The next thing for me is to start new exciting dance projects in Europe. And together with my amazing agent Jane, we are focusing on my career as a model and movement director within the fashion space.

Ivan wears a blazer by FENDI, shirt by SANDRO, shorts by PHYSIQUE DU ROLE and shoes by CHURCH's

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photography ANDREA CENETIEMPO
fashion market director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up EDOARDO DE FALCO via WM MANAGEMENT
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
talent IVAN UGRIN via DEJAPRIS AGENCY
fashion assistants VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + SEBASTIAN RAFAEL

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Andrea Cenetiempo

SS26 Menswear - Summer Edit of Timeless Classics with Fabio D’Addona

.digital

CLEAN SLATE
*with Fabio D’Addona

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Like all codified fashion trends that reach the point of parody – a cycle that seems to happen with increasingly ferocious pace these days – “quiet luxury” found itself in the proverbial bin over the years along with the Y2K fashion, gorpcore and office sirens.

Fabio wears a shirt by GIORGIO ARMANI, pants by QUARTO ATTO and tie by LORO PIANA

Yet, there’s something about the tenets of the stealth wealth movement that still seems to resonate with a grand and overstimulated shopping public, in a way that’s allowed it to transcend the usual lifecycle of your average fashion “core”. In fact, only this week, trends and 'fits across the world reported that “summer” apparel isn't just a matter of peacocking braggadocio at an all-time high; rather, it's about maintaining the margin between “minimalism" and “chic” with a subtly subversive feel.

Fabio wears a cardigan by LEVI’S, shirt by POLO RALPH LAUREN and shorts by THE NOUR

Fabio wears a total look by LORO PIANA

Your wardrobe will naturally shift throughout the year, but Summer is the season when the weather dictates your clothing choices the most. For your breezy capsule wardrobe, you'll want a concise edit of classic pieces to make getting ready every day so much easier. It can sometimes feel like a challenge to remain stylish throughout Summer, but these three pairings will keep you snazzy and comfortable, in style. You're welcome.

Fabio wears a total look by LORO PIANA

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photography ANDREA CENETIEMPO
fashion market director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up EDOARDO DE FALCO via WM MANAGEMENT
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model FABIO D’ADDONA
fashion assistants VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + SEBASTIAN RAFAEL

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Andrea Cenetiempo

SS26 Menswear - STITCHES OF FREEDOM with Michelangelo Vizzini

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STITCHES OF FREEDOM
*with Michelangelo Vizzini

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Michelangelo Vizzini’s first dabs within the creative sphere took place from an early age, when music—in the first instance—became a pivotal tool for expression and freedom. “Over time I found acting as another equally powerful language,” he confesses, as we settle into our conversation.

Michelangelo wears a total look by MIU MIU

“I see myself as someone constantly exploring; I love nature, staying with my family and chocolate,” he exclaims, his face filled with excitement. “Growing up, I’ve been influenced by a mix of music and cinema: Musicals were probably the strongest presence early on, as they shaped my sensitivity.” Vizzini has always been deeply inspired by artists who were able to be honest and vulnerable in their work: namely Daniel Caesar, whose music carries a deeply raw and emotional truth in its lyricism.

Michelangelo wears a total look by CELINE

“In general, I’m drawn to people who create from a genuine place, regardless of the medium,” he says. “Creativity has always been part of my life,” he opines, adding how, “Music came first and very naturally, while acting came late, but it didn’t feel like a shift, but more of an expansion.” LE MILE’s Fashion Director caught up with the rising creative force, unpacking everything from career feats to future hopes. You’re welcome.

Michelangelo wears a blazer by GIORGIO ARMANI, a sweater by SON OF A TAILOR, shirts by MOSCHINO and MICHAEL KORS, shorts by POLO RALPH LAUREN, shoes by CHURCH’S, and a belt by CELINE

Chidozie Obasi
When was the pivotal moment you realised you wanted to pursue the creative path as a full time profession?

Michelangelo Vizzini
I think I’ve always known, in a way. This path requires courage, and I never really had a plan B. I could spend hours singing or studying musicals without ever feeling tired, and that feeling made it clear to me that this was what I wanted to do with my life.

Leaning on to the crucial moment that changed your path forever: could you unpack it with us?

I think the crucial moment was when I decided to put music slightly aside for a while and focus more on cinema. It wasn’t an easy choice, because music has always been a big part of me, but I felt the need to explore acting more deeply.

At a time when the social and cultural phenomena are wreaked by havoc at an increasingly ferocious pace, how do you navigate the system and stay afloat?

I try to stay grounded and connected to what feels real. It’s easy to get distracted by noise, but I think it’s important to come back to the work, to the process, and to your own voice. For me, it’s about focusing on authenticity rather than external validation.

Could you unpack your most ‘complex’, dare I say, moment of your journey?

The most complex moments are often the ones where you doubt yourself. There are times when things feel uncertain, when you question your path. But I’ve learned that those moments are also necessary, they push you to grow, to redefine who you are, both as an artist and as a person.

Michelangelo wears jeans by HED MAYNER, shorts by ESSENTIEL ANTWERP, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

And now, talk to us about Love Me, Love Me: how did it all happen? And what did you expect when you first read the script?

I immediately connected with the emotional core of Love Me, Love Me. It asked me to be completely honest, especially in portraying love and vulnerability. I wanted to respect the character while making him real for me, focusing on personal connections. It was also a key experience that taught me to trust the process and stay present.

You’re also quite passionate about fashion: is that something you've learned to embrace over time, and what's your relationship with it?

Fashion is something I’ve grown into over time. At first, it was more instinctive, but now I see it as another form of expression. It’s a way to communicate something without words, an extension of identity and mood.

What's next for you, and where are you hoping to take your career in time to come?

I want to continue exploring characters, stories that are intimate but also challenging. I’m interested in roles that push me out of my comfort zone and allow me to grow. At the same time, I’ll keep developing my music, because it’s such a personal space for me. I don’t want to limit myself. I just want to keep evolving and searching for something real.

Any final reflections?

If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s the importance of staying open, open to change, to doubt, to growth. This path is unpredictable, but that’s also what makes it meaningful. In the end, it’s all about being honest with yourself and with what you want to express. Anyway, life will guide me, and wherever I end up, I’ll trust the process.

Michelangelo wears shirts by SON OF A TAILOR and POLO RALPH LAUREN, pants by MOSCHINO, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

photography ANDREA CENETIEMPO
fashion market director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
talent MICHELANGELO VIZZINI
fashion assistants SOFIA FARINA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + SEBASTIAN SCHIAVO

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Andrea Cenetiempo

SS26 Menswear - FUNCTION AND FINESSE with Umberto Villahermosa

.digital

FUNCTION AND FINESSE
*with Umberto Villahermosa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

For Italian talent Umberto Villahermosa, a lifestyle pundit whose affection with outdoor sports and art goes back in time, the past year has marked a transition in his path. “I started a clothing brand and I’m learning how to manage my time around working as a model, while building a solid base,” he says, cosily, as we begin to settle into our conversation.

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA, pants by QUARTO ATTO, and shoes by CANALI

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

“It’s been a big challenge, but I’m willing to take it, and it brought a new fire of longing within me.” Since childhood, he’s always been a very creatively-driven kid, and aged fifteen he began building his own surfboards. “It’s only really when I moved over to Milano to study Economics that I understood I was drawn more towards creative disciplines like painting, photography and design,” he confesses. “I’ve always lived with the mentality of making something myself rather than buying it,” he adds. Umberto kicked off his modeling career because of his grandmother, who worked for the Italian house Fendi when she was younger. “She told me that I could work well as a model,” he says, “and took me, just like a scouter, to who’s still my current mother agency.”

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

He wasn’t considering that becoming reality at first, but as he began to work he realised that it was interesting and unique, and that he much preferred honing such practice than working as a finance professional or in a corporate office as his life was originally meant to be. “The uprise of socials during those years also gave me a further opportunity to express myself and release a vision of who I was under my own lens, and that was such a lovely medley of accumulated experiences and sources of inspiration that once again drove me more towards the realm of creativity,” he says. “At the time, I was also motivated by the love I gained on social media, which could also be a slippery slope for obvious mental health reasons,” he reflects. As for the rest? Well, there’s more to the story, which you’ll probably read here first. You’re welcome.

Umberto wears a coat by ACT N1, a shirt by CANAKU, pants by THE NOUR, shoes by JIMMY CHOO, and an archive tie

Chidozie Obasi
Could you unpack your biggest career feats?

Umberto Villahermosa
During the past twelve years of my career, I’d say some of my proudest jobs are my first lookbook shoots for brands such as Versace, Dolce&Gabbana but also shows during fashion week, for example my first ever shows such as MSGM or Philipp Plein. I'm talking about those beginning jobs because I still remember the enthusiasm levels to this day.

How about the complex moments you’ve had?

I would refer as complex moments the fact that modelling, such as a lot of other creative jobs, is not a super stable career, there’s lots of ups and downs and those downturns can be understandably harsh if you don’t have a solid mindset that comes with understanding the idea that you cannot have control over every single facet of your path.

As a model and talent with such a broad experience and portfolio, how did you manage to stay afloat amid the system’s downturns?

I highly believe in professionality and humanity as fundamental values, no matter what the work environment is. You can have your face on all the magazine covers and on the biggest brand campaigns, but if you show up at work late and you treat others badly because you think you are superior, I would personally not hire you to represent my brand. I think I have always respected that and it definitely helped to keep me afloat.

Umberto wears a total look by LORO PIANA

Moving onto your brand, could you expand on it and specify how you are hoping to scale it further?

During my climbing years, I noticed I couldn’t find a comfortable pair of pants to practice such activity outdoors and that would protect my knees and shins from scratches that you would get from hitting granite rock. Therefore, I started climbing with karate pants that were very comfortable in terms of flexibility, but that wouldn’t protect enough from scratches. I decided to make my own climbing because I like to experiment with patterns and create destructured designs that are now the most sold, and that’s how Sasso People was born. I also give the opportunity to customers to have a custom sizing for maximum comfort, and I’m committed to having the closest possible to zero waste repurposing the fabric scraps into accessories and climbing bags. I transformed my living room into my studio, and I currently make everything by hand. It’s doable but I’m at maximum capacity. The big challenge will be to expand with production outsourcing, but in a way that I can maintain the same level of craftsmanship and low environmental impact because these, together with building a healthy and inclusive community, are the main values of the brand.

What’s next for you?

I will surely continue working as a model, keep developing the brand and find solutions to get to a broader public and grow the community. On a more personal level, I promised myself to work on my mental health and take care of myself a little more.

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO and pants by THE LATEST

Umberto wears an overshirt by PAUL SMITH, a shirt and pants by LABO.ART, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Umberto wears a tank top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Umberto wears a blazer by HED MAYNER, pants by THE LATEST, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD and EUPHORIA NEW

Umberto wears a shirt by GRIFONI and pants by PHYSIQUE DU ROLE and MEIMEIJ

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model UMBERTO VILLAHERMOSA via INDEPENDENT MGMT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Womenswear - DANCING TIDES with Franceska Nuredini

.digital

DANCING TIDES
*with Franceska Nuredini

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Franceska Nuredini’s encounter with dance somewhat began as a joke. “As a child, I’d tried various sports, but my mother soon realised that dancing came naturally to me: I loved it and I also had a natural aptitude for it; I was very flexible,” she says. One day, Nuredini’s mother took her along for a trial lesson. “From that moment on, I literally immersed myself in my dance school: it became my whole world for seven years, years of intense study which, almost naturally, turned that passion into my career.”

Franceska wears a coat by DEAD COUTURE ICONS, a shirt by GRIFONI, skirts by MEIMEIJ and YALI, shoes by APEPAZZA, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Combining dance and fashion becomes an innovative way of telling a story, and in this shoot, Nuredini felt at her best to convey such feelings. “Yes, I think this connection between these art forms has grown significantly,” she reflects. “Today, even in fashion, there is an ever-increasing need for expression and movement: the body is no longer merely a backdrop for the garment, but a narrative tool that brings life and meaning to what is worn.”

Nuredini sees herself as someone who works through my body and my image, but for her the creative process leading up to the final result is also fundamental. “I worked in a very comfortable and stimulating environment. The music also played an important role: it changed along with the outfits I was wearing and, as a result, my interpretation and the way I moved changed too,” she says. “Over the past seven years of work, I’ve had quite a few memorable experiences. Among the most significant was the last tour I undertook with the artist Elodie,” she freely admits. “It was an extremely fulfilling experience, both artistically and personally. On stage, I felt free to truly be myself, something that isn’t always a given in my line of work.”

On hopes, she speaks with unguarded honesty. “I sincerely hope that expression, in all its forms, continues to grow ever more,” she concludes. “Beauty and art should never stop evolving and transforming. And, of course, I hope to continue being a part of it myself.”

Franceska wears a dress by MAX ZARA STERCK and a skirt by DRUMOHR

Franceska wears a top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shorts by MANUEL RITZ, and shoes by CASADEI

Franceska wears a top by DRUMOHR and a skirt and scarf by AVANT-TOI

Franceska wears a total look by MOSCHINO

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
talent FRANCESKA NUREDINNI via SOLO STUDIO MILANO
talent manager STEFANO MANCLOSSI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - SUBTLE BLOOM with James Yates

.digital

SUBTLE BOOM
*with James Yates

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

If you’re stuck wearing soft knits for lack of a better option across the minimalism spectrum – a cycle that’s doomed to repeat itself ad infinitum because nothing else quite measures up to a tried-and-tested subtle option – consider tailoring paired with shirts an equally comfortable alternative. Warm, fuss-free and willing to be paired with any essentials from Gant, Armani to Canali (as shown in the below edit), this multi-tasking staple will almost certainly edge ahead when it comes to registering as smart. Structure was present in abundance during Fashion Month, which saw several show-goers pair weighty styles with scarves, longline coats and basics.

James wears a total look by Gant

Would the same outfits have looked good with skinny options? Possibly. But there was something about the way the volumes fell, wrapping ever-so-slightly over the body but looking quite impeccable at first sight, that made those pairings look effortless. As for the shape? Roomy, which still appears to be the most popular, but, like any item in a transitional wardrobe, that’s only the entry point. From neutral-toned blazers, which look supremely chic with a breezy shirt, to wide-legged trousers, which go well with jackets, there’s a whole spectrum to acquaint yourself with this Spring. Scroll on for some of the best styles, edited by LE MILE’s Fashion Market Director. You’re welcome.

James wears blazer DRUMOHR, shirt and tie CANALI, shorts POLO RALPH LAUREN, shoes Gant

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears jacket CANALI, blazer POLO RALPH LAUREN, shirt DOLCE&GABBANA, pants QUARTO ATTO

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears sweatshirt HED MAYNER, shirt POLO RALPH LAUREN, pants EMPORIO ARMANI, shoes BEPOSITIVE

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears a total look by Gant with shoes AQVA ALTA

James wears blazer RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, shorts PHYSIQUE DU ROLE, jeans MOSCHINO

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model JAMES YATES via SPECIAL MANAGEMENT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants VALENTINA INVERARDI + SOFIA FARINA + VINCENZO VITELLO + LUIZA ANGELOVA + SEBASTIAN RAFAEL + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Womenswear - REBEL SOUL with Brydie Cleveringa

.digital

REBEL SOUL
*with Brydie Cleveringa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The hallmarks of painstaking tailoring include, but are not limited to a slimline silhouette, soft volumes and, usually, the addition of contrast accents found in sartorial textures. Designer brands were the initial catalysts for this trend, but it has since been fuelled by iterations from premium wear giants and high-street counterparts, too.

Brydie wears a total look by MCQUEEN

Emerging designers are also faithful adopters, and released their iterations throughout years of innovation. True to form, tailoring is very much in-keeping with the pared-back identity luxury has become known for, and pairs well with the puddling hemlines of the cosy separates seen across mainline collections. (The model’s shots on this story, styled by LE MILE’s very own Fashion Market Director, exemplify the multiple styling possibilities of these offerings.) Proof that they’ve been a hit? Wear-anywhere tailoring is available in several styles, as well as classic cuts that stand the test of a lifetime. As is the case with any cult high-street product, many Italians have welcomed these staples into their everyday wardrobes. I’ve seen them on the Tube, in pub gardens – and now that they’re included in the designer’s seasonal proposals, I expect they’ll become even more popular in no time.

Brydie wears blazers and pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shirt by TAGLIATORE

Brydie wears a total look by FERRAGAMO

Brydie wears a total look by VALENTINO

Brydie wears blazer and white shirt by MICHAEL KORS, striped shirt by ARTHUR ARBESSER, skirt by MEIMEIJ, shoes by APEPAZZA

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model BRYDIE CLEVERINGA via D MANAGEMENT GROUP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - WILD COMPOSURE with Luca Cobelli

.digital

WILD COMPOSURE
*with Luca Cobelli

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Every Spring, I find myself reaching instinctively for one of the best breezy separates that has carried me through countless cold mornings, commutes, late-night dinners and far-fetched trips. No matter how many trends cycles come and go, a body-hugging essential is a mid-season constant. That’s why when investing in one, you need to think carefully about what to look for, what to avoid and the wear-anywhere styles worth considering.

Luca wears a total look by MIU MIU

Luxury brands like MIU MIU, Paul Smith and Michael Kors have practically built their reputations on expertly crafted wardrobes, but there are plenty of more affordable and brilliantly made options on the high street, too. Brands such as BePositive, Avant-Toi and Canaku now offer exceptional quality in the daily wardrobe department without breaking the bank. Also worth noting: Fit is key. A gently oversized cut allows room for billowing shirts underneath and gives a more relaxed feel, while a slimmer or more tailored number offers polish for eveningwear, but isn’t the best for layering underneath on the coldest of days. Aim for a staple that skims the body without swamping it, and make sure the sleeves are the right length – small alterations at your local tailor can make an enormous difference. You’re welcome.

Luca wears a shirt by HED MAYNER, pants by ACT N.1 and shoes by PREMIATA

Luca wears a polo sweater by AVANT-TOI, a shirt by ALESSANDRO GHERARDI, pants by QUARTO ATTO, shorts by CALVIN KLEIN, shoes by CHURCH’S and a tie by THE FRANKIE SHOP

Luca wears a sweater and shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by PAUL SMITH and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Luca wears shirts by PAUL SMITH and LABO.ART, and pants by CANAKU

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model LUCA COBELLI via I LOVE MODELS MANAGEMENT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - DANCING TIDES with Simone Emili

.digital
DANCING TIDES
*with Simone Emili

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Simone Emili’s first approach to dance was quite unusual, and came almost by chance. “I was about ten years old, a very hyperactive kid, and I felt the need to practice a sport, but I couldn’t really find one that I saw myself in,” he tells LE MILE’s Fashion Director, Chidozie Obasi. “There was one thing, however, that came naturally to me: in every sport I tried, in moments of rest, I always ended up dancing.”

Simone wears a vest by FEDERICO CINA and pants by ISSEY MIYAKE MEN

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a tank top by SANDRO, a skirt by ACT N1, and pants by SETCHU

From then on, he never stopped: at first, it was simply a hobby, something that spontaneously became a part of his daily routine. Then, during adolescence, he began to understand that it could become much more. “I completely changed my mindset and approach: dance became a tool for transforming my body, my mind, and, ultimately, the person I am today.”

Emili believes that today, the relationship between fashion, expression, and dance is at its peak. “There’s an increasingly perceptible mutual contamination between these worlds, which now communicate naturally and continuously,” he reflects. “It’s as if they were a single form of expression: one doesn’t exclude the other, but rather complements it. Where there’s fashion, there’s also movement; and movement, ultimately, is the very essence of dance. Fashion, in my opinion, is a form of dance: it communicates through the body, lines, and attitude. Likewise, dance embodies an aesthetic, a sense of style and expression that deeply resonates with the language of fashion.”

The emotions Emili felt during the shoot were bountiful, but what struck him most was the stark contrast between them. “Wearing six different looks, I felt like I was experiencing six distinct emotional states,” he says. “Each outfit transported me to a different atmosphere, almost a new environment, capable of evoking specific sensations: from harmony to elegance, even a kind of anger,” he explains. “All these emotions then became part of my performance in front of the camera. It was precisely this emotional journey that allowed me to face a long and intense day with energy and awareness. My goal was to create a contrast between the looks: not just an outfit change, but a transformation of my entire personality time after time.”

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a shirt by CANAKU, shorts by HED MAYNER, and shoes by AQVA ALTA

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

Simone wears a sweater by MORDECAI, a shirt by MANUEL RITZ, pants by ACT N1, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Simone wears a total look by MOSCHINO

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model SIMONE EMILI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - SOFT PROJECTION with Matteo Guerrieri

.digital
SOFT PROJECTION
*with Matteo Guerrieri

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Wear-anywhere separates are something of a paradox. Whether you choose breezy numbers or a style that stretches, something in neutral shades or a more tempered hue, their practical aesthetic can appear effortless – see Matteo Guerrieri’s proposal for the taking – however, the flipside is that for all their daily effortlessness, they require significantly more upkeep than their structured counterparts.

Matteo wears a blazer by CANALI, a bomber and scarf by ETRO, a shirt by BOSS, pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Quite simply, they deliver something different to classic true staples, which is why 24/7 wearers of soft tailoring will always have an ample range in their rotation. I own many: blazers, sweats and cardigans styles from both the high street and premium houses, which have a subtle aesthetic that teams nicely over sneakers or formal footwear. They serve different purposes, as you can probably tell by their shapes, but, crucially, both deliver polish in a mode that’s easy and undone.

They could pretty much be styled with any toppers, from a chunky knit by day to a long-sleeved cotton offering by night. (I also love a shirt-meet-sweat moment, although that might be too much for a night out.) My only note would be to score on the low-effort proposals, as the key is not overdoing it. Minimal layers, a quiet necktie and comfortable shoes – a lived-in Church’s loafer or a funky trainer, such as BEPOSITIVE – are the way to go. All that is left to do now is finding your staple of choice, and you’ll become the embodiment of Spring in no time. You’re welcome.

Matteo wears a polo sweater by FERRAGAMO, a knit T shirt by AGNONA, pants by FIVEFOURFIVE, and shoes by FERRAGAMO

Matteo wears a total look by VALENTINO

Matteo wears a total look by DIOR HOMME

Matteo wears a tank top by ISABEL MARANT, a vest by LUCA LARENZA, a shirt by LABO.ART, pants by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Matteo wears a cardigan by EXTREME CASHMERE, a shirt by MORDECAI, pants by INSTITUTION, shorts by LUCA LARENZA, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model MATTEO GUERRIERI via MASC AGENCY
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri