SS26 Menswear - FUNCTION AND FINESSE with Umberto Villahermosa

.digital
FUNCTION AND FINESSE
*with Umberto Villahermosa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

For Italian talent Umberto Villahermosa, a lifestyle pundit whose affection with outdoor sports and art goes back in time, the past year has marked a transition in his path. “I started a clothing brand and I’m learning how to manage my time around working as a model, while building a solid base,” he says, cosily, as we begin to settle into our conversation.

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA, pants by QUARTO ATTO, and shoes by CANALI

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

“It’s been a big challenge, but I’m willing to take it, and it brought a new fire of longing within me.” Since childhood, he’s always been a very creatively-driven kid, and aged fifteen he began building his own surfboards. “It’s only really when I moved over to Milano to study Economics that I understood I was drawn more towards creative disciplines like painting, photography and design,” he confesses. “I’ve always lived with the mentality of making something myself rather than buying it,” he adds. Umberto kicked off his modeling career because of his grandmother, who worked for the Italian house Fendi when she was younger. “She told me that I could work well as a model,” he says, “and took me, just like a scouter, to who’s still my current mother agency.”

Umberto wears a blazer and shirt by DOLCE&GABBANA

He wasn’t considering that becoming reality at first, but as he began to work he realised that it was interesting and unique, and that he much preferred honing such practice than working as a finance professional or in a corporate office as his life was originally meant to be. “The uprise of socials during those years also gave me a further opportunity to express myself and release a vision of who I was under my own lens, and that was such a lovely medley of accumulated experiences and sources of inspiration that once again drove me more towards the realm of creativity,” he says. “At the time, I was also motivated by the love I gained on social media, which could also be a slippery slope for obvious mental health reasons,” he reflects. As for the rest? Well, there’s more to the story, which you’ll probably read here first. You’re welcome.

Umberto wears a coat by ACT N1, a shirt by CANAKU, pants by THE NOUR, shoes by JIMMY CHOO, and an archive tie

Chidozie Obasi
Could you unpack your biggest career feats?

Umberto Villahermosa
During the past twelve years of my career, I’d say some of my proudest jobs are my first lookbook shoots for brands such as Versace, Dolce&Gabbana but also shows during fashion week, for example my first ever shows such as MSGM or Philipp Plein. I'm talking about those beginning jobs because I still remember the enthusiasm levels to this day.

How about the complex moments you’ve had?

I would refer as complex moments the fact that modelling, such as a lot of other creative jobs, is not a super stable career, there’s lots of ups and downs and those downturns can be understandably harsh if you don’t have a solid mindset that comes with understanding the idea that you cannot have control over every single facet of your path.

As a model and talent with such a broad experience and portfolio, how did you manage to stay afloat amid the system’s downturns?

I highly believe in professionality and humanity as fundamental values, no matter what the work environment is. You can have your face on all the magazine covers and on the biggest brand campaigns, but if you show up at work late and you treat others badly because you think you are superior, I would personally not hire you to represent my brand. I think I have always respected that and it definitely helped to keep me afloat.

Umberto wears a total look by LORO PIANA

Moving onto your brand, could you expand on it and specify how you are hoping to scale it further?

During my climbing years, I noticed I couldn’t find a comfortable pair of pants to practice such activity outdoors and that would protect my knees and shins from scratches that you would get from hitting granite rock. Therefore, I started climbing with karate pants that were very comfortable in terms of flexibility, but that wouldn’t protect enough from scratches. I decided to make my own climbing because I like to experiment with patterns and create destructured designs that are now the most sold, and that’s how Sasso People was born. I also give the opportunity to customers to have a custom sizing for maximum comfort, and I’m committed to having the closest possible to zero waste repurposing the fabric scraps into accessories and climbing bags. I transformed my living room into my studio, and I currently make everything by hand. It’s doable but I’m at maximum capacity. The big challenge will be to expand with production outsourcing, but in a way that I can maintain the same level of craftsmanship and low environmental impact because these, together with building a healthy and inclusive community, are the main values of the brand.

What’s next for you?

I will surely continue working as a model, keep developing the brand and find solutions to get to a broader public and grow the community. On a more personal level, I promised myself to work on my mental health and take care of myself a little more.

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO

Umberto wears a blazer by CARUSO and pants by THE LATEST

Umberto wears an overshirt by PAUL SMITH, a shirt and pants by LABO.ART, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Umberto wears a tank top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Umberto wears a blazer by HED MAYNER, pants by THE LATEST, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD and EUPHORIA NEW

Umberto wears a shirt by GRIFONI and pants by PHYSIQUE DU ROLE and MEIMEIJ

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director + stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model UMBERTO VILLAHERMOSA via INDEPENDENT MGMT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Womenswear - DANCING TIDES with Franceska Nuredini

.digital
DANCING TIDES
*with Franceska Nuredini

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Franceska Nuredini’s encounter with dance somewhat began as a joke. “As a child, I’d tried various sports, but my mother soon realised that dancing came naturally to me: I loved it and I also had a natural aptitude for it; I was very flexible,” she says. One day, Nuredini’s mother took her along for a trial lesson. “From that moment on, I literally immersed myself in my dance school: it became my whole world for seven years, years of intense study which, almost naturally, turned that passion into my career.”

Franceska wears a coat by DEAD COUTURE ICONS, a shirt by GRIFONI, skirts by MEIMEIJ and YALI, shoes by APEPAZZA, a hat by DOLCE&GABBANA, and jewellery by LAG WORLD

Combining dance and fashion becomes an innovative way of telling a story, and in this shoot, Nuredini felt at her best to convey such feelings. “Yes, I think this connection between these art forms has grown significantly,” she reflects. “Today, even in fashion, there is an ever-increasing need for expression and movement: the body is no longer merely a backdrop for the garment, but a narrative tool that brings life and meaning to what is worn.”

Nuredini sees herself as someone who works through my body and my image, but for her the creative process leading up to the final result is also fundamental. “I worked in a very comfortable and stimulating environment. The music also played an important role: it changed along with the outfits I was wearing and, as a result, my interpretation and the way I moved changed too,” she says. “Over the past seven years of work, I’ve had quite a few memorable experiences. Among the most significant was the last tour I undertook with the artist Elodie,” she freely admits. “It was an extremely fulfilling experience, both artistically and personally. On stage, I felt free to truly be myself, something that isn’t always a given in my line of work.”

On hopes, she speaks with unguarded honesty. “I sincerely hope that expression, in all its forms, continues to grow ever more,” she concludes. “Beauty and art should never stop evolving and transforming. And, of course, I hope to continue being a part of it myself.”

Franceska wears a dress by MAX ZARA STERCK and a skirt by DRUMOHR

Franceska wears a top by MICHAEL KORS, pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shorts by MANUEL RITZ, and shoes by CASADEI

Franceska wears a top by DRUMOHR and a skirt and scarf by AVANT-TOI

Franceska wears a total look by MOSCHINO

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordinators ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
talent FRANCESKA NUREDINNI via SOLO STUDIO MILANO
talent manager STEFANO MANCLOSSI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - SUBTLE BLOOM with James Yates

.digital
SUBTLE BOOM
*with James Yates

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

If you’re stuck wearing soft knits for lack of a better option across the minimalism spectrum – a cycle that’s doomed to repeat itself ad infinitum because nothing else quite measures up to a tried-and-tested subtle option – consider tailoring paired with shirts an equally comfortable alternative. Warm, fuss-free and willing to be paired with any essentials from Gant, Armani to Canali (as shown in the below edit), this multi-tasking staple will almost certainly edge ahead when it comes to registering as smart. Structure was present in abundance during Fashion Month, which saw several show-goers pair weighty styles with scarves, longline coats and basics.

James wears a total look by Gant

Would the same outfits have looked good with skinny options? Possibly. But there was something about the way the volumes fell, wrapping ever-so-slightly over the body but looking quite impeccable at first sight, that made those pairings look effortless. As for the shape? Roomy, which still appears to be the most popular, but, like any item in a transitional wardrobe, that’s only the entry point. From neutral-toned blazers, which look supremely chic with a breezy shirt, to wide-legged trousers, which go well with jackets, there’s a whole spectrum to acquaint yourself with this Spring. Scroll on for some of the best styles, edited by LE MILE’s Fashion Market Director. You’re welcome.

James wears blazer DRUMOHR, shirt and tie CANALI, shorts POLO RALPH LAUREN, shoes Gant

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears jacket CANALI, blazer POLO RALPH LAUREN, shirt DOLCE&GABBANA, pants QUARTO ATTO

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears sweatshirt HED MAYNER, shirt POLO RALPH LAUREN, pants EMPORIO ARMANI, shoes BEPOSITIVE

James wears a total look by Gant

James wears a total look by Gant with shoes AQVA ALTA

James wears blazer RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, shorts PHYSIQUE DU ROLE, jeans MOSCHINO

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion market director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair DAVIDE NUCARA
model JAMES YATES via SPECIAL MANAGEMENT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants VALENTINA INVERARDI + SOFIA FARINA + VINCENZO VITELLO + LUIZA ANGELOVA + SEBASTIAN RAFAEL + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Womenswear - REBEL SOUL with Brydie Cleveringa

.digital
REBEL SOUL
*with Brydie Cleveringa

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The hallmarks of painstaking tailoring include, but are not limited to a slimline silhouette, soft volumes and, usually, the addition of contrast accents found in sartorial textures. Designer brands were the initial catalysts for this trend, but it has since been fuelled by iterations from premium wear giants and high-street counterparts, too.

Brydie wears a total look by MCQUEEN

Emerging designers are also faithful adopters, and released their iterations throughout years of innovation. True to form, tailoring is very much in-keeping with the pared-back identity luxury has become known for, and pairs well with the puddling hemlines of the cosy separates seen across mainline collections. (The model’s shots on this story, styled by LE MILE’s very own Fashion Market Director, exemplify the multiple styling possibilities of these offerings.) Proof that they’ve been a hit? Wear-anywhere tailoring is available in several styles, as well as classic cuts that stand the test of a lifetime. As is the case with any cult high-street product, many Italians have welcomed these staples into their everyday wardrobes. I’ve seen them on the Tube, in pub gardens – and now that they’re included in the designer’s seasonal proposals, I expect they’ll become even more popular in no time.

Brydie wears blazers and pants by DOLCE&GABBANA, shirt by TAGLIATORE

Brydie wears a total look by FERRAGAMO

Brydie wears a total look by VALENTINO

Brydie wears blazer and white shirt by MICHAEL KORS, striped shirt by ARTHUR ARBESSER, skirt by MEIMEIJ, shoes by APEPAZZA

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model BRYDIE CLEVERINGA via D MANAGEMENT GROUP
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - WILD COMPOSURE with Luca Cobelli

.digital
WILD COMPOSURE
*with Luca Cobelli

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Every Spring, I find myself reaching instinctively for one of the best breezy separates that has carried me through countless cold mornings, commutes, late-night dinners and far-fetched trips. No matter how many trends cycles come and go, a body-hugging essential is a mid-season constant. That’s why when investing in one, you need to think carefully about what to look for, what to avoid and the wear-anywhere styles worth considering.

Luca wears a total look by MIU MIU

Luxury brands like MIU MIU, Paul Smith and Michael Kors have practically built their reputations on expertly crafted wardrobes, but there are plenty of more affordable and brilliantly made options on the high street, too. Brands such as BePositive, Avant-Toi and Canaku now offer exceptional quality in the daily wardrobe department without breaking the bank. Also worth noting: Fit is key. A gently oversized cut allows room for billowing shirts underneath and gives a more relaxed feel, while a slimmer or more tailored number offers polish for eveningwear, but isn’t the best for layering underneath on the coldest of days. Aim for a staple that skims the body without swamping it, and make sure the sleeves are the right length – small alterations at your local tailor can make an enormous difference. You’re welcome.

Luca wears a shirt by HED MAYNER, pants by ACT N.1 and shoes by PREMIATA

Luca wears a polo sweater by AVANT-TOI, a shirt by ALESSANDRO GHERARDI, pants by QUARTO ATTO, shorts by CALVIN KLEIN, shoes by CHURCH’S and a tie by THE FRANKIE SHOP

Luca wears a sweater and shirt by MICHAEL KORS, pants by PAUL SMITH and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Luca wears shirts by PAUL SMITH and LABO.ART, and pants by CANAKU

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up CHIARA GUIZZETTI via THE GREEN APPLE ITALIA
hair FUJIWARA TAKAHASHI via MKS MILANO
model LUCA COBELLI via I LOVE MODELS MANAGEMENT
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants SIMONA VERNAZZA + ANGELINA PERSIANI + SOFIA FARINA + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + LUIZA ANGELOVA + CHIARA DE BONIS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - DANCING TIDES with Simone Emili

.digital
DANCING TIDES
*with Simone Emili

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Simone Emili’s first approach to dance was quite unusual, and came almost by chance. “I was about ten years old, a very hyperactive kid, and I felt the need to practice a sport, but I couldn’t really find one that I saw myself in,” he tells LE MILE’s Fashion Director, Chidozie Obasi. “There was one thing, however, that came naturally to me: in every sport I tried, in moments of rest, I always ended up dancing.”

Simone wears a vest by FEDERICO CINA and pants by ISSEY MIYAKE MEN

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a tank top by SANDRO, a skirt by ACT N1, and pants by SETCHU

From then on, he never stopped: at first, it was simply a hobby, something that spontaneously became a part of his daily routine. Then, during adolescence, he began to understand that it could become much more. “I completely changed my mindset and approach: dance became a tool for transforming my body, my mind, and, ultimately, the person I am today.”

Emili believes that today, the relationship between fashion, expression, and dance is at its peak. “There’s an increasingly perceptible mutual contamination between these worlds, which now communicate naturally and continuously,” he reflects. “It’s as if they were a single form of expression: one doesn’t exclude the other, but rather complements it. Where there’s fashion, there’s also movement; and movement, ultimately, is the very essence of dance. Fashion, in my opinion, is a form of dance: it communicates through the body, lines, and attitude. Likewise, dance embodies an aesthetic, a sense of style and expression that deeply resonates with the language of fashion.”

The emotions Emili felt during the shoot were bountiful, but what struck him most was the stark contrast between them. “Wearing six different looks, I felt like I was experiencing six distinct emotional states,” he says. “Each outfit transported me to a different atmosphere, almost a new environment, capable of evoking specific sensations: from harmony to elegance, even a kind of anger,” he explains. “All these emotions then became part of my performance in front of the camera. It was precisely this emotional journey that allowed me to face a long and intense day with energy and awareness. My goal was to create a contrast between the looks: not just an outfit change, but a transformation of my entire personality time after time.”

Simone wears a cardigan by FIVEFOURFIVE, a shirt by CANAKU, shorts by HED MAYNER, and shoes by AQVA ALTA

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

Simone wears a sweater by MORDECAI, a shirt by MANUEL RITZ, pants by ACT N1, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

Simone wears a total look by MOSCHINO

Simone wears a cardigan by TOMMY HILFIGER, a shirt by BOSS, pants by MOSCHINO, shoes by SEBAGO, and jewellery by N21

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURDJEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model SIMONE EMILI
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri

SS26 Menswear - SOFT PROJECTION with Matteo Guerrieri

.digital
SOFT PROJECTION
*with Matteo Guerrieri

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Wear-anywhere separates are something of a paradox. Whether you choose breezy numbers or a style that stretches, something in neutral shades or a more tempered hue, their practical aesthetic can appear effortless – see Matteo Guerrieri’s proposal for the taking – however, the flipside is that for all their daily effortlessness, they require significantly more upkeep than their structured counterparts.

Matteo wears a blazer by CANALI, a bomber and scarf by ETRO, a shirt by BOSS, pants by RANDOM IDENTITIES by Stefano Pilati, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Quite simply, they deliver something different to classic true staples, which is why 24/7 wearers of soft tailoring will always have an ample range in their rotation. I own many: blazers, sweats and cardigans styles from both the high street and premium houses, which have a subtle aesthetic that teams nicely over sneakers or formal footwear. They serve different purposes, as you can probably tell by their shapes, but, crucially, both deliver polish in a mode that’s easy and undone.

They could pretty much be styled with any toppers, from a chunky knit by day to a long-sleeved cotton offering by night. (I also love a shirt-meet-sweat moment, although that might be too much for a night out.) My only note would be to score on the low-effort proposals, as the key is not overdoing it. Minimal layers, a quiet necktie and comfortable shoes – a lived-in Church’s loafer or a funky trainer, such as BEPOSITIVE – are the way to go. All that is left to do now is finding your staple of choice, and you’ll become the embodiment of Spring in no time. You’re welcome.

Matteo wears a polo sweater by FERRAGAMO, a knit T shirt by AGNONA, pants by FIVEFOURFIVE, and shoes by FERRAGAMO

Matteo wears a total look by VALENTINO

Matteo wears a total look by DIOR HOMME

Matteo wears a tank top by ISABEL MARANT, a vest by LUCA LARENZA, a shirt by LABO.ART, pants by ZEGNA, and shoes by CHURCH’S

Matteo wears a cardigan by EXTREME CASHMERE, a shirt by MORDECAI, pants by INSTITUTION, shorts by LUCA LARENZA, and shoes by BEPOSITIVE

photography COSIMO BUCCOLIERI via STUDIO REPOSSI
fashion director and stylist CHIDOZIE OBASI
head of production JESSICA LOVATO
fashion coordination ALBERTO MICHISANTI + EDWARD PUSCA
make up DIANA DJURD JEVSKI via STUDIO REPOSSI
makeup assistant ANGELA CAMMALLERI
hair AMERICO TURTORO via MKS MILANO
model MATTEO GUERRIERI via MASC AGENCY
photography assistant ANTONIO CROTTI
fashion assistants ANGELINA PERSIANI + CHARISSE ORDINARIA + SIMONA VERNAZZA + SOFIA FARINA + VALENTINA INVERARDI + VINCENZO VITELLO + THEA OLOFSSON ROWCLIFFE

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Cosimo Buccolieri