London Fashion Week Streetstyles AW26

OUTSIDE THE SHOWS
*That’s London Fashion Week AW26

written LE MILE

Beyond the curated cadence of catwalks and official showrooms, London Fashion Week AW26 played out on its streets, in the lively interstices between presentations and the unchoreographed gestures of a city steeped in creative flux. This season, the capital’s mood carried equal parts resilience and reinvention. Established houses revisited heritage with renewed focus, emerging voices amplified cultural narratives, and design vocabularies were read through lenses of inclusivity, texture, and urban poise.

In the in-between moments — arriving guests, impromptu clusters at side streets, front-row departures and post-show conversations — London’s style set assembled its own dialect of expression. Classic British tailoring appeared alongside bold colour juxtapositions; sculptural coats and ballet-flat combos shared pavements with purposeful layering, kitsch accoutrements, and subcultural inflections. Rain-ready outerwear, unexpected colour duos and inventive accessories punctuated everyday movement, revealing how personal style reflects and disrupts the season’s formal narratives.

Captured by Ian Kobylanski in the heart of London’s fashion-week flux, Outside the Shows turns its gaze toward the characters who populate these spontaneous spaces — individual storytellers forging distinctive looks from the season’s fragments. Seen and documented across late winter streets and show day thoroughfares, the series traces style in motion, observing how fashion is performed, adjusted and recalibrated beyond the frame of the runway.

all visuals
(c) IAN KOBYLANSKI

London Fashion Week FW26, February 2026

Copenhagen Fashion Week at 20 - Cecilie Bahnsen and Fine Chaos

Two Generations of Copenhagen Fashion

In The Designers’ Words

written JUSTINA SNOW

Do you remember the time when you turned twenty? It seemed like from now on you would enter a different era, and everything would be different. You feel more professional when ‘-teen’ is no longer attached to your age, and you feel like now you will finally be taken seriously.

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 / Cecilie Bahnsen by James Cochrane

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 / Cecilie Bahnsen by James Cochrane

Copenhagen Fashion Week just turned 20. And even though Copenhagen has long been a major city on the fashion map, it still is a big milestone. Maturity really shows here - Copenhagen Fashion Week has developed its own values, which include sustainability - it’s the only fashion week that has mandatory standards requiring at least 50% of collections to be certified, recycled, or upcycled. It is also the only fashion week where 70% of the brands on the schedule are women-led.

As it’s so appropriate for a bright young thing, it is very progressive and fast-changing, and it also has so much power to influence other cities. I met two brands from different fashion generations — Cecilie Bahnsen and Fine Chaos — to discuss about how they view the fashion industry change in Copenhagen (and as a whole), to reflect on its past and future, and to see if any generational differences exist, even in fashion.

Designer Portrait / Cecilie Bahnsen

Cecilie Bahnsen, who began working as an assistant to Danish designer Anja Vang Krag in 2007, is now one of the most well-known and successful Danish fashion names. I met Cecilie Bahnsen in a bookstore, where she hosted a signing event for A Magazine Curated by, marking the first time the magazine was curated by a Danish designer, with her name standing alongside Martin Margiela, Riccardo Tisci, and other fashion legends. Cecilie revealed that she is also a collector of the magazine.

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 / Cecilie Bahnsen by James Cochrane

Copenhagen Fashion Week SS26 / Cecilie Bahnsen by James Cochrane

Justina Snow
You founded your brand more than 10 years ago. What changes in the fashion industry, and in Copenhagen specifically, have you noticed since you started the brand?

Cecilie Bahnsen
For me, being part of Copenhagen Fashion Week was a way of finding my Scandinavian voice - or my brand’s voice - and embracing it. When I started, it was amazing to see so many Danish designers beginning to establish their Scandinavian identity. Seeing how far Copenhagen Fashion Week has come over the past 10 years, and being part of that journey, has been very special.

Copenhagen Fashion Week is the only major fashion week with so many women-led brands on its schedule. Why do you think Copenhagen has this, while other fashion weeks remain more male-dominated?

I think life happens at a different pace here, and I see more balance, which gives room for collaboration and creativity. The inspiring environment and calmness of the city also make it easier to thrive and seem to encourage and motivate this focus on women-led brands.

You’re very active internationally. How does the experience of being in Paris compare to being in Copenhagen?

Copenhagen is an amazing base - it’s home, but it's also true that the brand is very international. First, moving to Paris was really incredible. For me, the couture and the romance are deeply inherited in the brand. I spent a few years in Paris before moving back to Copenhagen (Cecilie was interning for John Galliano in Paris early in her career), and now I feel like my heart belongs to both places. It’s incredible to come back to Copenhagen but also to show collections in Paris.

And I think it´s a perfect balance because your brand in the context of Paris feels and looks very different.

Yes. But also nowadays fashion weeks are collaborating more, which is really exciting.

A slightly wishful question: we’re now celebrating 20 years of Copenhagen Fashion Week. Looking ahead, where do you see Copenhagen fashion in another 20 years?

I hope it continues to celebrate creativity, personality, and uniqueness. I appreciate that you see the brand as established, but I remember when I was a student, the first show I saw in Copenhagen was Henrik Vibskov and it was a big thing for me. That energy of creativity was something important to hold on to. It’s about staying inspired, following your creative vision, and seeing how far you can take it.

Designer Portrait / Fine Chaos

The young, ambitious brand Fine Chaos also hit major milestones in their career this time. While only having their first show in 2023, they recently expanded their creative team, which helped them develop their jewelry and accessories line, creating an even more immersive, futuristic, yet still underground universe. Tone-Lise, who is now the head of design, started at the brand founded by Marc C. Møllerskov as an intern and emphasizes the importance of community in fashion.

Copenhagen Fashion Week FW26 / Fine Chaos by James Cochrane

Copenhagen Fashion Week FW26 / Fine Chaos by James Cochrane

Copenhagen Fashion Week FW26 / Fine Chaos by James Cochrane

Justina Snow
You started the brand in 2021, with the first show being in 2023, and a lot of growth has happened since then. In the grand scheme of things, five years is not a lot, but do you already see a difference in the fashion scene from when you started to now?

Fine Chaos
I think consumers are reaching a turning point where they need to have a story behind the garment. Also, before, the fashion industry was very closed off, and we’re trying to open it up to everybody, to be seen as humans and not as somebody who sits on their throne. It’s important not to be a private party, because at the end of the day we are all expressing ourselves through it.

If you had to pick only one thing about Fine Chaos, what are you most proud of?

That people are so open-minded within the brand, and that it feels like a family. When I started as an intern, I was actually homeless, and it always felt like home. Also, the ability to sense what is going on in the world and to communicate it through clothing. You can turn off your phone, turn off the TV, but we still try to confront people using fashion as a medium.

I liked the phrase on your homepage that ‘you as a brand are not yet sustainable.’ That’s very honest. Do you think the fashion world would benefit if more brands admitted that?

Definitely, because there’s no brand that’s truly sustainable. It’s not possible to produce something new without impacting the planet. It’s about taking accountability and thinking about how to make it better. That’s why, for us, it’s very important to be responsible, because we are also part of the burden on the world. It’s also important that consumers see value in what they’re buying - it has to be an investment.

Copenhagen is the only fashion week where the majority of brands are women-led. Why do you think this happens here and not in other fashion capitals?

I would say we see each other more as equals here. In our brand, too - Mark and I - we are equals. It’s funny, because a lot of internship applicants we get are mainly women. We haven’t had a man apply for a design internship, which actually would be great too. In other fashion cities, however, sexism in the fashion industry is a huge problem. I think some people are still drawn to how it was back in the day, and it has become seen as ‘how it should be.’ My brain is sobbing thinking about this. I hope one day they will look at Copenhagen as one of the leading fashion weeks and take it as an example.

We are celebrating 20 years of Copenhagen Fashion Week. If we look 20 years from now, what kind of fashion industry would you like to find yourself in?

To be honest, I would love to see fewer brands, with all of them understanding how their production affects the planet and people. I would also like to see fashion be more open to everybody, not like a private party, as we talked about before - because everybody is wearing clothes, regardless of whether you are into fashion or not. And more women.

Copenhagen Fashion Week FW26 / Fine Chaos by James Cochrane

Copenhagen Fashion Week FW26 / Fine Chaos by James Cochrane

Berlin Fashion Week - New Generation of German Fashion

Berlin Fashion Week frames a New Generation of German Fashion

A review of the BFW Fall/Winter 2026 Collections

written KLAAS HAMMER

New and emerging labels, established talents and brands that found their way to the city through "Intervention" initiated by Reference Studios all presented their collections, while at the very beginning only one topic was on everyone’s minds: the icy cold.

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / IOANNES seen by Lewin Berninger

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / IOANNES seen by Lewin Berninger

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / IOANNES seen by Lewin Berninger

IOANNES

Friday evening opened with one of the most hyped brands on the schedule. Ioannes, the label by designer Johannes Boehl Cronau, delivered a show that practically screamed chic and expensive. The looks were undeniably sexy, defined by sharp cuts, confident tailoring, and styling that paired pointed-toe stilettos with sleek, polished sunglasses. For what he describes as his final traditional runway collection, Cronau delved deep into his own archive to distill what "Ioannes-ness" means today. Looking ahead, he plans to step away from the seasonal fashion calendar altogether, evolving the brand into a holistic lifestyle project that will eventually include furniture and objects. Berlin, he explains, is the ideal place to pursue this vision—a city that allows him to build on his own terms, free from the crushing weight of heritage or the immediate pressure of commercial perfection.

The collection itself drew heavily on the aesthetics of the 1990s: sleek silhouettes reminiscent of his mother’s black Jil Sander office suits, sharp yet relaxed in their execution. There was a distinct Euro jet-set mood hovering somewhere between glamour and ennui. Yet playfulness was never far away. Cronau employed pyrography, burning wood, to transfer floral motifs onto garments, describing it as a "tension between the precision of tailoring and the rawness of the burn on bodycon dresses." Trousers flared subtly at the hem, while outerwear leaned into tactile textures, with coarse, hair-like surfaces that nodded to retro luxury without directly imitating it. With this collection, Cronau made it clear that he is no longer interested in proving relevance. For him, true resonance cannot be measured by algorithms; it can only be felt. Watching the show, I felt it instantly: I want to be a person who wears Ioannes.

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / MARKE seen by Andreas Hofrichter

MARKE

The next label to watch is MARKE by Mario Keine. What Ioannes represents for women, MARKE positions itself as a compelling counterpart in menswear. For those drawn to precise tailoring and classic silhouettes with a subtle, playful twist, this is a name worth remembering. The new collection combined clean, corporate forms with historic materials, highlighting the tension between discipline and emotion, individuality and conformity. It would not be surprising to see a major VIP step onto a red carpet in one of Keine’s designs in the near future. Like few others, MARKE manages to feel timeless and contemporary at once. Born from a sense of helplessness triggered by the constant flow of information on social media, where context and knowledge often dissolve into fast-consumed, surface-level content, the collection explored a softer side of masculinity. Black veils, roses, and long draped silhouettes brought emotion and vulnerability into sharp tailoring.

On a cold, grey winter day in Berlin, the looks, especially those in shades of grey, felt striking, quietly powerful and unexpectedly sensual. They were the kind of pieces you immediately wanted to take home, look after look. As the fashion crowd moved on to the next show, Keine remained by the exit, visibly relieved and content.

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / SF1OG seen by Tom Funk

SF1OG

SF1OG presented a runway show that explored the tension between privacy and visibility, guided by the central question: "Who are we when no one is watching?" Designer Rosa Marga Dahl and Jacob Langemeyer drew inspiration from intimate paparazzi images of early-2000s pop stars and the Victorian era’s mourning dress, using fashion as both a shield and a form of expression. The collection played with contrasts—revealing versus hiding, softness versus structure—through layered silhouettes, high collars, hoods, and garments designed to obscure the body and face. Tailoring appeared in new, sculptural forms shaped away from the body, while slim-fit denim referenced early 2010s youth culture, a bold move that resonated strongly with international buyers. Materiality remained central to SF1OG’s identity: reused antique linens, leather, and shearling were combined with silk, sequins, and velvet, creating pieces that felt worn-in rather than pristine. Signature elements such as bar jackets with flared peplums were paired with oversized knits and scarves, reinforcing the idea of clothing as emotional protection.
Set in a brutalist postwar building in Berlin, the show emphasized SF1OG’s clear point of view and increasing confidence as a brand. SF1OG continues to position itself as one of the most relevant emerging labels shaping the future of German fashion.

Taking place on February 2 during Berlin Fashion Week, INTERVENTION V is a one-day festival combining runway shows, talks, and listening formats at Kraftwerk Berlin. The former power station serves as a multidisciplinary venue for fashion, music, and contemporary culture.

The program opens with the first-ever collaboration between Reference Studios and TED, bringing fashion and design into TED’s cultural dialogue for the first time. Runway shows unfold across Kraftwerk’s ground and first floors, featuring BUZIGAHILL, Kenneth Ize, DAGGER, JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN, and GmbH, offering a focused snapshot of independent, globally minded fashion today. Let’s have a look at our two favorite shows:

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / John Lawrence Sullivan seen by Lewin Berninger

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / John Lawrence Sullivan seen by Lewin Berninger

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / John Lawrence Sullivan seen by Lewin Berninger

JOHN LAWRENCE SULLIVAN

One of the new brands to arrive in Berlin through INTERVENTION was John Lawrence Sullivan. Founded by Arashi Yanagawa, who worked as a professional boxer before turning to fashion, the label has previously shown in Tokyo, Paris, and London. After the show at Berlin’s Kraftwerk, it was clear that John Lawrence Sullivan fits seamlessly into the city’s often dark, raw aesthetic.

The collection featured long coats, tailored jackets, and bomber jackets, with hero pieces shaping the body into a forward-leaning posture reminiscent of a boxer’s fighting stance. A predominantly dark color palette, well suited to Berlin’s nightlife, was complemented by snow white and icy silver tones that evoked Nordic nights and a sharp sense of cold. Stud and spike details on boots and bags, along with sheer mesh long sleeves, completed the subculture-inspired looks, perfectly aligned with a fashion crowd moving through the city in temperatures as low as minus ten degrees. The womenswear followed the same concept as the menswear, with exaggerated shoulder silhouettes as a key visual element.
Speaking after the show, Yanagawa cited Norwegian black metal as a major influence, emphasizing themes of strength, independence, and looking forward. A strong and convincing Berlin debut from the former boxer.

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / GMBH seen by Lewin Berninger

GMBH

One of the most anticipated shows of Berlin Fashion Week, GmbH returned to its hometown with a powerful runway presentation that reaffirmed fashion as a political voice. Designers Benjamin Huseby and Serhat Işık continue to position the brand as an advocate for marginalized communities, using clothing as a form of resistance and expression.

Titled "Doppelgänger," the collection responded to a world shaped by violence, fear, and manipulation, referencing the idea of distorted realities where power, greed, and ideology blur truth and fiction. Drawing inspiration from Berlin’s early 1980s experimental music scene, particularly industrial and synth influences the show reflected a time when the city stood for counterculture and utopian ideals. The collection featured signature GmbH pieces: over-the-knee boots, leather trousers with zipper details, fur bomber jackets with oversized collars, and sharp tailoring with trousers in focus. Voluminous silhouettes were balanced with slim long-sleeves and loose tops, while long scarves softened the structured looks. A mostly neutral palette was interrupted by a striking black floral print on white. Beyond the clothes, the show emphasized community and solidarity. The casting brought together men of different backgrounds and body types, reinforcing GmbH’s inclusive ethos. Presented in freezing temperatures, the designers also used the moment on Instagram to call for donations to Berlin’s "Kältebus", underlining their commitment to action beyond the runway. With this show, GmbH once again proved why it remains one of Berlin’s most relevant and politically engaged fashion brands.

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / GMBH seen by Lewin Berninger

Berlin Fashion Week FW26 / GMBH seen by Lewin Berninger

Taakk - Fall/Winter 2026 Review

Taakk FW26 - Over 2,000 Years in the Making

A review of the Taakk Fall/Winter 2026 collection

written MALCOLM THOMAS

A rain of mist fell on La Tour d'Eiffel, its imposing presence seemed to devour the streets around it. Standing proud amongst its subjects, gazing in awe. Perhaps its purview extended to Taakk’s Fall/Winter 2026 show held at the Cité de l’Architecture et du Patrimoine on January 25, for which anyone should certainly be proud. Undoubtedly, Japanese designer Takuya Morikawa, who delivered his strongest collection to date. 

Paris Fashion Week FW26
TAAKK Fall/Winter 2026 Menswear

Inspired by the Jōmon, an early Japanese hunter, gatherer, and agricultural society spanning 10,000 years (roughly 14,000-300 BCE), much like the Jomon themselves, Morikawa wanted to pay tribute to the land, “living in harmony with nature; the forest, ocean, rivers and all,” the designer wrote in his program. 

This started from an unlikely and controversial place—fur, which was collected from production byproduct and pieced together to create the most beautiful and ethical jackets, bags, and trimmings—a new offering for Taakk. To gradient fabrics and masterful embroidery techniques. Warping cotton on denim to imitate tree bark, raw and unpolished, is one of many Morikawa innovations over the years.

After the finale, models stood for guests to marvel. People cheered, took out their phones, ran their hands through the textiles, and wondered why they hadn’t discovered Taakk sooner. I imagine Morikawa must’ve felt this, too. Now it was time for people to pay tribute to him.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
TAAKK Fall/Winter 2026 Menswear, Final

Paris Fashion Week FW26
TAAKK Fall/Winter 2026 Menswear, Takuya Morikawa

about the editor
When not reviewing shows or writing features, Malcolm spends his time as Founder & Editorial Director of Malcolm + Friends Agency. A full-service agency powered by a global community of freelancers, consultants, and creative partners from leading brands and institutions.


all images (c) TAAKK Press

Paris Fashion Week Streetstyles AW26

OUTSIDE THE SHOWS
*That’s Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW26

written LE MILE

Outside the official schedules and away from the controlled choreography of the runway, Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW26 revealed its most telling moments in motion, on the pavement, between shows, in passing glances and improvised silhouettes. This season unfolded against a backdrop of recalibration. Many houses leaned into clarity over spectacle, refining archetypes. Tailoring returned with sharper intent, volume was handled with restraint, and references to utility, workwear, and heritage were filtered through a more personal lens. Elsewhere, softness crept in through colour, texture, and gesture, suggesting a quieter confidence shaping contemporary menswear.

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
RICK OWENS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
RICK OWENS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
TAAKK

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
TAAKK

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
KIDSUPER

Captured by Ian Kobylanski, Outside the Shows turns its focus to the characters who animate this in-between space. Individuals assembling their own visual language from fragments of the season: elongated coats, experimental layering, archival gestures, subcultural echoes, and moments of playful disruption.

Shot during the final days of the Paris circuit in late January, the series reflects a city momentarily transformed into a moving archive of ideas. Outside the Shows shows how fashion is lived, negotiated, and reimagined in real time.

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
Michèle Lamy, COMME des GARÇONS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
COMME des GARCONS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
White Mountaineering

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
KIDSUPER

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
AMIRI

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LOUIS VUITTON

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
HERMES

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LOUIS VUITTON

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
DIOR

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
Pharell Williams, SACAI

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
JOON.J

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
JOON.J

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
DOUBLET

all visuals
(c) IAN KOBYLANSKI

Paris Fashion Week Menswear FW26, January 2026

Celine - Inside the Fall/Winter 2026 Menswear Collection

How Michael Rider Is Reframing Celine Menswear for Fall/Winter 2026

A review of the Celine Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection

written MALCOLM THOMAS

“We took the frame of menswear, and what Celine stands for, and then talked a lot about the energy of today, the here and now, the way people live and want to look,” said Celine Creative Director, Michael Rider.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Celine Fall/Winter 2026 Menswear

Officially, his second collection for the house. It appears Rider’s approach is more Phoebe Philo than Slimane, and entirely more down- to-earth, 16 Rue Vivienne, to be exact, the brand’s headquarters and showroom, where his under-the-radar second collection was presented. Unlike his debut, there was no runway show. No flashing lightbulbs, no V.I.P. wrangling or seating politics, this season. No pomp and circumstance. Instead, a well-merchandised presentation, a tower of American-style blue jeans, an S-curve footwear assortment, and a thoughtfully curated edit of key looks to peruse with champagne and hors d’oeuvres in hand. “Character over costume,” was the designer’s directive.

An electric blue button-up paired with trousers and a camel coat first caught my glance; the same blue also made an appearance in a shirt jacket and matching sweater. Then there were the bolder pieces: the single shoulder button pin leather jacket, for instance, rock n’ garde remnants of Monsieur Slimane’s time at the house, featuring hippie hugger sayings like “Hugs Not Drugs,” and “It won’t be a party if I’m not invited.”  You know the saying, once a bad boy…

But while Slimane was more likely to rock the boat, Rider is more likely to steer it.

Who wants to get wet anyway?

about the editor
When not reviewing shows or writing features, Malcolm spends his time as Founder & Editorial Director of Malcolm + Friends Agency. A full-service agency powered by a global community of freelancers, consultants, and creative partners from leading brands and institutions.


all images (c) CELINE Press, seen by Zoe Ghertner

Algieri - Paris Fall/Winter 2026 Show Review

Algieri Paris: Fashion and a Show

A review of the Algieri Paris Fall/Winter 2026 show

written MALCOLM THOMAS

Deep in the 14th arrondissement on a cold night, I sat inside the Chapelle Sainte Jeanne D’Arc, a Neo-Gothic church so remote even a Parisian taxi driver couldn’t find it. The grand darkness of the church, named after patron saint Joan of Arc (you know the one), was as much of a character as the performance itself.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Algieri Paris Fall/Winter 2026 Show

A ghoulish fog hung over the stage as a DJ appeared, and shortly after, a chanteuse unveiled her bejeweled-encrusted gown that shimmered as her voice soothed even the darkest corners of the church. Dancers in white enveloped her like a dying flower come back to life, then made their way to the tables populated with silver dishes in the center of the floor. They began staining their white uniforms black. One let out a scream, and the fashion part of the show began.

The collection, entirely in black, created (mostly) in deadstock fabric and exaggerated and restrictive structures and silhouettes in varying cashmere, leather, lace, feathers, metal, and stones, needed no such introduction.

Yet, the full-bodysuits, one made entirely of feathers, the voluminous floor-length fur, and the chainmail dress made of keys cling-clanging as it walked past to a melody of its own, were their own kind of show. 

Founded in 2022, Algieri Paris has a vested interest in the re-contextualization of gender and body norms, often collaborating with local drag queens and underground celebrities. Raphaël Algieri’s sex-positive avant-garde design language was honed at L’Institut Supérieur des Arts Appliqués (LISAA) and École des Hautes Études Commerciales (HEC). Nods to Louise Bourgeois and the sensuality of Robert Mapplethorpe’s famous black and white portraits can also be found in Algieri’s work. Named after the designer’s Italian great-grandmother, Filomena Algieri, who decided not to marry and to pass down her name instead. There is not an inch of Algieri that isn’t rich with subversion. 

When the show ended, I walked the eighteen minutes to the nearest metro in the rain. I laughed to myself. I almost missed this show. I’m glad I didn’t.

about the editor
When not reviewing shows or writing features, Malcolm spends his time as Founder & Editorial Director of Malcolm + Friends Agency. A full-service agency powered by a global community of freelancers, consultants, and creative partners from leading brands and institutions.


all images (c) Algieri Paris Press

Christian Louboutin - Jaden Smith Debuts Menswear Collection FW26

Jaden Smith Debuts Menswear Collection For Christian Louboutin

A review of the Christian Louboutin Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection

written MALCOLM THOMAS

When it was announced last September that Christian Louboutin had appointed its first-ever Men’s Creative Director, it marked a bold new chapter for the brand. A brand that, at that point, had already left its global footprint on one of fashion’s most lucrative categories.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

Emerging not just as another shoe brand, catered to women on the rise but as a sexy symbol of status, most notable for its blood red soles, known en masse as red bottoms, and framed in perpetuity as “bloody shoes” by Cardi B in her chart-topping smash, Bodak Yellow, a song that ironically did as much for her career as it did to cement Christian Louboutin in the culture.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

It was over 15 years ago that Louboutin launched its menswear line. A sub-category which now accounts for 24% of its business, and it was more than six years ago when the designer began a dialogue with then, 21-year-old, Jaden Smith. A child of parents who in their own right, had a part in shaping culture. A dialogue between the two seemed fitting— his appointment as a creative stakeholder seemed shocking—remember that bold new chapter?

Unveiled Wednesday at an elaborate exhibition in Paris, somewhere between cinema and mythology, the Fall/Winter 2026 menswear collection was displayed. Heroed by shoes, of course, merchandized on antiquity-inspired columns throughout, with accompanying wall placards, the same kind you might find in a gallery or museum. The positioning was clear. Less status. More art.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

From the virality of the campaign imagery, projected full screen on the wall and in a viewing area, Smith’s bare-chested body, painted in red, also on display—a kind of nod to the rapper’s full creative immersion, to the role itself, these were made for see and be seen moments. Some moments, bolder than others, fur boots for instance, worn by Jaden Smith, himself in the video, certainly not made for wallflowers, but rather a temperature check of how far Christian and Jaden are willing to go. Wax-dripped boots were another editorial moment, which I think may also have a retail moment too, as well as logo-ed belts and a utility bag with titled pockets and compartments, stone masons and scribes among Smith’s inspiration and romanticization of the working man.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

Next: a full collection slated for runway and sale next season, and the capsule collection in select boutiques and on christianlouboutin.com. Available now.

Paris Fashion Week FW26
Jaden Smith Menswear Collection for Christian Louboutin

about the editor
When not reviewing shows or writing features, Malcolm spends his time as Founder & Editorial Director of Malcolm + Friends Agency. A full-service agency powered by a global community of freelancers, consultants, and creative partners from leading brands and institutions.


all images (c) Christian Louboutin Press

Pitti Uomo 109 - The Future of Menswear FW26

Threads in Motion
Pitti Uomo 109

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

Everything is movement, transformation, story and progression: the theme chosen for the winter edition of Pitti Immagine unleashes a tale of dynamic expression, alongside the many inspirations that stem from this idea of movement.

Motion is a concept that transcends all manner of disciplines from politics to cinema, but also stands as a commitment and as an ability to to bring together an energy that leads to new figures in fashion. Movement, like the word itself, refers to something that evolves, breaking away from tradition and returning to it: it becomes a voice for ideals, cultures, connections and commitment. It also adapts to the body and, by dressing it, amplifies its presence by becoming a gesture and identity. Motion also becomes an emotion: a poetic flow, an energy of becoming and a movement of the soul.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season

Antonio De Matteis, President of Pitti Immagine, has a positive mindset of this edition. “If we have this quality across the board, we need to be thankful for the commercial partnerships between institutions and the brands,” he opined at the press conference. “Let’s look at the beauty of what we do, and the effort of our entrepreneurs — Pitti Uomo is the only fair on an international scale for menswear that was able to grow and scale its weight globally. It’s not easy to renovate a fair every six months, but it’s all down to the exceptional team work we pour in. We have the most important buyers in the world in town, and the distribution — given by the key retailers — helped some of the smallest names who started from here, who grew so much.”

There’s some highlights of this season, including the FW26 collection from Sebago which revolves around three creative worlds. Preppy Heritage evolves the iconic brand aesthetic by combining tradition and urban spirit with modern materials, updated lines and sartorial details. Fly Fishing draws inspiration from fly fishing and outdoor life in Maine, with functional garments, textured fabrics and natural colour palettes reminiscent of forests and water. Ranch, on the other hand, reflects the more rural and mountainous side of the American outdoors, with sturdy garments, handcrafted finishes and an authentic, raw aesthetic reinterpreted in a contemporary key.

GAS decisively reaffirms its essence: denim.
 A fundamental element and hallmark of the brand, denim once again becomes the starting point for a story that spans cities, cultures and attitudes, transforming itself into a universal language capable of adapting to different styles, genres and contexts. Under the theme Urban Souls, the collection explores the dynamic, metropolitan soul of the season, giving life to Collective Denim Identities: a choral narrative in which denim becomes a symbol of freedom, personal expression and belonging. A versatile material that transcends barriers and transforms itself depending on how it is worn, moving from everyday to special occasions, from essential to fashionable. At the heart of the collection is a wide Wash Spectrum, which spans all shades of indigo – from the deepest raw to the lightest and most authentic shades – creating a solid, recognisable and contemporary denim offering. The colour palette is based on essential neutrals, the ideal base for essentials and fashion items, enriched with seasonal accents.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season / brand SEBAGO

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season / brand SEBAGO

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season / brand SEBAGO

Consinee, a leading Chinese group in the global market for fine yarns and cashmere fibres from certified and sustainable supply chains, has entrusted the artistic direction of its new project for Pitti Uomo 109 to Sara Sozzani Maino, involving designer Galib Gassanoff at the helm of creative development, presenting Echoes of Craft. Continuous experimentation combined with a deeper understanding of the fibre's versatility are the cornerstones of Consinee's non-commercial creative platform, which evolves from season to season to create new, free and stimulating narratives.

Sara Sozzani Maino, creative director of the Sozzani Foundation, invites Galib Gassanoff, a designer renowned for his creativity and strong vision, to embark on a new aesthetic exploration through raw materials, developing an original narrative in which artistic heritage becomes a return to our roots, to which we remain anchored.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season / brand Consinee

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season / brand Consinee

ANTIK BATIK founded, directed and creatively designed by Gabriella Cortese, a Paris-based stylist and entrepreneur, the iconic French Maison with its bohemian-chic style will present its Autumn-Winter 26/27 men's ready-to-wear collections at Pitti Uomo. Gabriella Cortese will be present throughout the show to meet international buyers and press representatives.After more than thirty years dedicated exclusively to women's wear, Gabriella Cortese introduced the ANTIK BATIK men's collections in 2024 with a first capsule collection, presented in Paris during Paris Men's Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2024. Since then, the men's line has grown steadily, establishing itself as a natural and consistent extension of the brand's DNA. This evolutionary path now leads ANTIK BATIK to Pitti Uomo, marking a new and significant strategic milestone for the Maison.

Pitti Immagine Uomo 109
FW26 Season / brand ANTIK BATIK

WHITE Milano *Resort 2025

Milano Fashion Week
WHITE Resort 2025
*Resets the Rules in Milan

written Amanda Mortenson

Milan, late June—Resortwear found its reset button. At the 2025 edition of WHITE Resort, held at Superstudio Più in Via Tortona, the language of summer dressing stretched beyond seasonality. It fused global luxury, smart matchmaking, and slow living into a platform that felt less like a trade show and more like a carefully orchestrated rhythm of exchange.

From the first step through the Garden’s curated paths, WHITE reasserted itself as a soft power force within Milan’s style scene. Less spectacle, more intention. Each booth, each piece, each buyer-to-brand moment echoed a shared logic: summer dressing is no longer a niche, but the pulse. The format drew global attention and sealed its positioning as a resortwear laboratory, fusing elegance and functionality through a lens sharpened by sustainability and story.

WHITE Milano Resort 2025
June Edition

WHITE Milano Resort 2025
June Edition

International presence surged. A 35% increase in foreign buyers underlined the weight this edition carried. Representatives from Japan’s United Arrows, France’s Le Bon Marché, and Saudi Arabia’s Rubaiyat moved through the space with purpose. From boutique hotels to luxury resorts, key names like Royal Atlantis, Belmond, and Hotel Kaiserlodge were on-site,scouting and closing. The Middle East, particularly, stood out (not as a trend, but as a central axis) of beach luxury and contemporary taste.

WHITE’s brilliant team again provided bespoke support to these buyers, identifying collections aligned with their DNA ahead of time. The result was meaningful encounters and actual business outcomes. Boutique names from the U.S.—Fearrington Village, Everything But Water, and Coco Boutique—mingled with fresh Latin American voices like Malva from Colombia and European staples like Abseit (Germany) and The Feeting Room (Portugal).

“We created a curated, widespread showroom where each buyer received personal attention, a formula that worked. We're now working on exporting it.”

Massimiliano Bizzi, the Founder of WHITE

WHITE Milano Resort 2025
Gran Canaria Swim Week, June Edition

WHITE Milano Resort 2025
June Edition

WHITE Milano Resort 2025
June Edition

Gran Canaria Swim Week took up residence in its dedicated exhibition space, a strategic partnership designed for longevity. Its presence signaled a new frontier for European swimwear, a continent-crossing collaboration that draws Gran Canaria’s creative identity into Milan’s orbit. Through this alliance, the event deepened its function as a connector.

The brand lineup hit a rare balance—global but tight, niche yet commercially potent. From the conscious elegance of Vivia Resort and Athoa to the relaxed silhouettes of Be Sunset and Niluu, WHITE Resort’s offerings spoke the language of subtle luxury. Tailored but loose. Lightweight but sharp. There were no high-decibel trends, only a soft confidence that translated through texture, drape, and detail.

Accessories amplified the tone with a precise curation—Tkees, Maison Lana, Azman Perfumes, De Siena, and Van Den Abeele offered statements that didn’t shout. Each object acted as punctuation to the garments, extending the narrative rather than disrupting it. The return of Rebirth—a Saudi brand under the Saudi 100 Brands project—was a touchstone. It stood as a watermark of intent: WHITE is building something lasting with the Gulf, through creativity and cross-cultural dialogue.

Even menswear found its moment in the Lounge with Summer Games and Alexandre Hekkers, among others. The pieces echoed the broader WHITE language: fluid silhouettes, ethical sourcing, thoughtful design.

Courtesy cars by Renord ensured the city flowed as the show did, while the food & wine partners—Italian Wine Brands, Pantura, Ape Cesare—anchored Milanese hospitality at the event’s core. WHITE Resort 2025 arrived to redirect the current. This was an edition that leaned into continuity over noise, intimacy over overload. A platform, a filter, a gathering of those rethinking how summer moves through clothing, commerce, and culture. Thanks for inspiring us!

credit all images
(c) WHITE MIlano June 2025

SavoirFaire 2025 *Fair for Interior Design

SavoirFaire 2025
*A Living Showcase of Architectural Precision and Material Beauty

written SARAH ARENDTS

From October 23 to 26, 2025, Knokke-Heist becomes a destination for design professionals and aesthetes. At the Grand Casino Knokke, the second edition of SavoirFaire brings together over fifty interior design studios, architectural producers, and emerging voices. The format honors built quality, refined material processes, and advanced craftsmanship.

LE MILE Magazine joins as a proud media partner of SavoirFaire 2025, reflecting the shared focus on form, process, and thoughtful execution. The fair takes place in a spatially curated format. Exhibitors receive individual attention, and each presentation serves as a standalone architectural fragment. The expanded format includes returning pioneers such as Inti, known for sculptural lighting that defines presence in space, and Lanssens, a heritage studio specializing in historically rooted window systems.

New exhibitors include Baswa, a Swiss acoustic expert working at the intersection of silence and surface, and DeltaLight, whose innovations in lighting explore scale and integrated architecture. These participants present material concepts that function as structural components. Antwerp-based Slag-werk offers dense, architectural furniture works that explore proportion and edge. Their output emphasizes surface depth and volume. Isabel Gomez Studio, active internationally, contributes interior environments defined by calm geometry and tonal precision.

RV ARCHITECTS
seen by Charlotte Lauwers

ISABEL GOMEZ Penthouse Office
seen by Ruth Maria

A curated shuttle service connects visitors to real-time reference projects throughout Knokke-Heist. Guests move from the Grand Casino into finished homes and architectural interiors that apply the materials, objects, and systems featured at the fair. This direct experience bridges concept with completed space. It introduces scale, light, and atmosphere in real-world contexts.

The exhibition inside the Casino is constructed with intention. Each participating brand or studio receives space to articulate its approach. Every contributor offers its own clarity. Architectural finishes, bespoke hardware, precision lighting, and handmade furniture create an environment shaped by integrity and transparency. SavoirFaire’s reach extends across multiple disciplines. Architects, interior designers, builders, gallerists, and collectors will engage directly with the exhibitors. Over 2,500 professionals and more than 7,000 design-conscious visitors are expected. Conversations emerge around longevity and sensory quality.

The fair presents design as spatial language. Shapes hold stillness. Textures communicate presence. Acoustic panels, limestone slabs, and engineered joinery appear in settings that allow material weight to settle. Furniture pieces align with structural grids and light plans. Each element integrates with the others. Across the event, visual cohesion plays a central role. Curators focus on slow design, architectural logic, and reduction without absence. Bold pieces exist in balance with quieter statements. Ceramic objects and large-format textiles extend the material range while preserving spatial discipline.

LE MILE Magazine’s partnership amplifies this narrative. With its emphasis on form, clarity, and atmosphere, the magazine contributes editorial presence during and after the fair. Photography and reports will follow the event, tracing its spatial insights and its material contributions to the international design landscape.

BOMAT
The ArchiScape Lina Burnt Brick

“At LE MILE, we look for vision and integrity in design. SavoirFaire gathers both. Collaborating with them allows us to deepen our commitment to spaces and objects that carry intention.”

Alban E. Smajli, Editor-in-Chief + Founder LE MILE Magazine

LES CONFIDENTS Invisible Collection

Mercedes Maybach Shuttle

ISABEL GOMEZ Penthouse Living
seen by Ruth Maria

Tickets are available via savoirfaire.be. The program includes guided visits, presentations, and architectural moments across Knokke-Heist. The fair opens daily during its run at the Grand Casino and includes reserved access for professionals and collectors. SavoirFaire 2025 offers a full encounter with space, object, and method. The material decisions on display affect surface, structure, light flow, and echo. These elements interact quietly, forming environments grounded in precision and discipline.

Each participating studio contributes work rooted in continuous refinement. The outcome serves residential, institutional, and cultural applications. Every item reflects advanced production and studied proportion.

This second edition affirms SavoirFaire’s intention: to gather voices across architecture, interiors, and object design under one roof, with attention to process, place, and depth. From custom flooring systems to marble detailing, from modular cabinetry to integrated fixtures, each decision adds to a larger architecture of clarity.

With the support of LE MILE Magazine, SavoirFaire continues to highlight designers and producers who work with care, scale, and awareness. October in Knokke-Heist brings these principles into view — through form, through presence, and through the lived experience of space.

discover more www.savoirfaire.be

Paris Fashion Week AW25

THE FABRIC OF NOW
*Paris Fashion Week 2025 Highlights

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-2026 unfolded as an encoded manifesto, where fabric became language and silhouettes spoke in tongues. Designers unearthed buried histories, reconstructing past blueprints into a future without borders.

The runway was an evolving stage—DIOR dismantled gender constructs, LOUIS VUITTON mapped the velocity of movement, VALENTINO engineered intimacy as spectacle. Vans infiltrated Valentino, threading rebellion through the needle of luxury. This was a transmission. CHLOÉ reactivated an artifact, the Paddington bag, as an emblem of memory in motion. ZIMMERMANN stretched the seams between myth and reality. Vans infiltrated Valentino, threading rebellion through the needle of luxury.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

VALENTINO Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Alessandro Michele’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for VALENTINO continued his redefinition of the house’s identity, expanding on the foundations set in his debut. The show, titled Le Méta-Théâtre Des Intimités, transformed the runway into a dystopian, Lynchian space, evoking the surreal ambiance of a public restroom—an environment stripped of traditional constructs, where personal and collective identities dissolve.

Structured ‘70s-inspired suits, sculptural coats, and richly embellished dresses unfolded in deep VALENTINO red, ivory, and ink black, carrying an almost ritualistic quality. The collaboration with VANS introduced a new dimension, reworking the classic Authentic sneaker in bold checkerboard patterns and an “I Love My Vans” motif intertwined with VALENTINO’s logo. Lace veils layered over raw-edged tailoring, gloves extended beyond the elbow, and sculptural accessories punctuated the silhouettes with a sense of quiet subversion. Michele’s vision explored intimacy as a performative space, where identity is neither fixed nor singular but constantly in flux, layered like fabric, revealing and concealing with each movement.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO x VANS

Paris Fashion Week FW25
DIOR Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
DIOR Show

DIOR Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fall 2025 collection for DIOR was a sartorial journey through time, drawing inspiration from Virginia Woolf's "Orlando" to blur the lines between masculinity and femininity. The runway transformed into a theatrical spectacle, with models navigating a set adorned with mechanical pterodactyls and looming icebergs, evoking a sense of timelessness and evolution.

Chiuri revisited the archives, paying homage to predecessors like Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano. The reimagined white shirt, a nod to Ferré's architectural approach, became a canvas for exploration, featuring detachable ruffled collars reminiscent of Elizabethan ruffs, symbolizing the fluidity of identity. The collection's palette transitioned from somber blacks to ethereal whites, mirroring the narrative of transformation. Lace gowns juxtaposed with military-inspired coats underscored the harmonious blend of strength and delicacy. The revival of the "J'adore Dior" T-shirt, an emblem of Galliano's era, was recontextualized, bridging past and present. Chiuri's exploration of gender-bending silhouettes and the interplay of historical motifs with contemporary aesthetics reaffirmed Dior's commitment to innovation while honoring its rich legacy.

LOUIS VUITTON Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Nicolas Ghesquière's vision for LOUIS VUITTON's Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was a love letter to the golden age of train travel, encapsulating the romance and anticipation of journeys. Staged at the historic Gare du Nord, the show immersed attendees in the bustling ambiance of a Parisian train station, complete with the rhythmic hum of Kraftwerk's "Trans-Europe Express."

Ghesquière presented an eclectic array of silhouettes, from voluminous midi skirts paired with heavyweight knit vests to pinstriped boiler suits accented with vivid scarves. The accessories were a testament to LOUIS VUITTON's legacy in travel, with models clutching steamer-inspired handbags and oversized duffel totes, reminiscent of classic luggage pieces.

The collaboration with set designer Es Devlin resulted in a runway that mirrored the transient nature of travel, with models embodying characters from various walks of life, each telling their own story. This new collection celebrates the art of travel, highlighting the brand’s connection to movement, heritage, and design, with historical elements woven into a contemporary vision that unfolds as a continuous narrative.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
LOUIS VUITTON Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
LOUIS VUITTON Show

CHLOÉ Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali, CHLOÉ's Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was an ode to the multifaceted nature of femininity, exploring the interplay between strength and softness. Kamali studied the archives, reviving the iconic Paddington bag, a beloved accessory from the early 2000s, now reimagined for the modern woman.

The runway showcased a harmonious blend of opulence and practicality, with lavish, embellished dresses juxtaposed against pared-down, utilitarian pieces. Broad logo belts cinched sheer, low-rise maxi skirts, adding a touch of structure to the ethereal ensembles. Ballet flats, poised to become the season's must-have, offered an effortlessly chic touch, embodying the brand's signature blend of elegance and ease. Kamali's exploration of plurality and the influences that shape women's identities resulted in a collection that felt very personal and universally relatable, resonating with women across generations.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
ZIMMERMANN Show

ZIMMERMANN Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Nicky Zimmermann’s Fall 2025 collection, Hypnotic, built a world where storytelling unfolded in fabric, silhouette, movement. Inspired by the haunting atmosphere of Picnic at Hanging Rock on its 50th anniversary, the collection absorbed the film’s lingering sense of mystery without directly referencing its costumes. Instead, elements from the narrative were distilled into textures, structures, and motifs that shaped each look with quiet precision.

Lace-trimmed lingerie dresses, pinstripe suits, and structured wool coats introduced a balance of softness and strength, while hidden details—maps of Mt. Macedon printed on silk, hand-drawn Valentine’s Day cards stitched between layers of chiffon—wove subtle fragments of the story into the collection. The use of Mongolian shearling, leather-wrapped boots, and braided trims reinforced a tactile complexity, adding depth to the compositions without overpowering their fluidity. A shift in palette from soft, sunlit hues to deep moss greens and midnight blues signaled an evolving mood, with textures becoming richer and silhouettes taking on a more dramatic form.

Polished stone jewelry and an almond-shaped suede bag introduced grounding elements to the collection, serving as counterpoints to the weightlessness of chiffon and the elongation of sleeves. ZIMMERMANN shaped Hypnotic with an attention to atmosphere, allowing the garments to move between clarity and enigma.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
ZIMMERMANN Show

Milan Fashion Week AW25

MILAN AW25
*Runways Framed, Streets Unfiltered

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

In times where society’s downturns are increasingly commonplace, fashion's mission is to exude a profound sense of societal relevance that can create both desire and intent: a purpose to set alight its deep connotation beyond mere conventions.

The Milan shows have proven to stick to a traditional code of conduct: a free of fuss aesthetic, teamed with pared-back, minimalist lines prevail over its British and American counterparts, where everything is blown to the max. The Milan shows, after all, wholly reflect the DNA of century-old traditions, and it's no surprise that the people of the city share that very sentiment. Gucci went back to its roots and archive for Fall 2025, as the house's founder Sabato De Sarno announced his departure earlier in February. This season, the lineup featured a lean towards a new colourway (dark, forest green) and a shift from its red (rosso ancora, as the house used to name it), bringing a newfound sense of femininity and glamour to the apparel.

MFW FW25
during PRADA

MFW FW25

MFW FW25
ICEBERG Show

MFW FW25
during ETRO

MFW FW25
during VIVETTA

Now, speaking of Iceberg, the brand seemed to be eschewing all manners of fuss and grounding to a linear approach and take of tailoring: tones are subdued, maxi logos are a far cry from the visual language and the pared-back appeal seems to be winning the race. On similar territory, Fendi celebrated its centenary this Fall with a collection that harked back to Silvia Venturini Fendi's memories and Karl: the collection renewed its affection for the house's classics, bringing forth a slew of timeless pieces that had sleek silhouettes, embellished details and a sinuous touch overall. Jil Sander, Prada, Moschino and Moschino offered levity and a dash of irreverence to the modern woman. Diesel offered tons of playfulness while Etro, D&G's runway had upbeat tempo ('cool girls', strutted both inside and outside the venue), and Vivetta continued its design path.

MFW FW25
during DIESEL

MFW FW25
during GUCCI

MFW FW25
during MOSCHINO

MFW FW25
during DOLCE & GABBANA

MFW FW25

all visuals

production  ONE.FASHION.AGENCY
art-director Mariia Nikiforova 
project manager Viacheslav Nikiforov
seen by Vitalii Verkhoturov

MFW - WHITE Milano 2025

WHITE Milano 2025
*Fashion’s New Axis

written Alban E. Smajli

Milan, the beating heart of fashion, witnessed another electrifying edition of WHITE MILANO. A meticulously curated showcase of designers and brands set the tone for the future of luxury.

The event’s selection of 300 brands established a new narrative, presenting collections with a clear vision of craftsmanship, innovation, and cultural resonance. The Secret Rooms introduced designers such as YID’PHROGMA from China, MAZ Manuela ALVAREZ from Colombia, and RENÈ from Denmark. Their work projected an evolution in contemporary aesthetics, fusing heritage with modern design language.

OH CARLA
at WHITE MILANO 2025

RENÈ
at WHITE MILANO 2025

WHITE MILANO’s CIRCLE project expanded its global influence with a formalized partnership with Retail Leader Circle, securing a strategic presence in Riyadh. Retail activations at WESTERLY and additional pop-ups across Saudi Arabia, the UAE, and Qatar strengthened its role as a dynamic force in international fashion. A growing network of buyers, including representatives from Estnation in Japan and Le Bon Marché in France, engaged with collections that embodied a defined luxury perspective. Media engagement surged, solidifying WHITE MILANO as an essential platform for industry dialogue.

Throughout the event, industry leaders and cultural pioneers gathered for discussions, presentations, and collaborations. A roundtable with key European buyers examined shifts in the retail landscape. A delegation of Indigenous Canadian designers, curated by Indigenous Fashion Arts, explored the interplay of sustainability and identity within fashion. Istituto Marangoni’s digital showroom extended the conversation, integrating physical collections with digital advancements.

The momentum carried into the evening. A dinner at Caruso Nuovo Bistrot with Massimiliano Bizzi and Brenda Bellei Bizzi immersed guests in an atmosphere of exchange and creative discourse. An intimate setting fostered new perspectives, deepening connections between design, business, and artistic vision.

WHITE MILANO constructs the framework of modern luxury. With each edition, the event refines its direction, reinforcing its role in shaping the industry’s trajectory. The upcoming season signals further evolution, with a continued focus on innovation and a sharp curatorial approach to the brands that define its identity.

WHITE MILANO 2025

CAROLXOTT
at WHITE MILANO 2025

WHITE MILANO is a cultural platform where fashion, music, and business intersect. With a diverse program of events, WHITE solidifies its role in shaping industry trends and future outlooks. The 2025 edition reflected fashion’s evolving landscape, driving creativity, innovation but also sustainability while influencing the industry’s direction.

credit all images
(c) WHITE MIlano, 2025 and Brands

PITTI UOMO 107 - 2025

Boys on Fire
*PITTI UOMO 107

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The winter edition of Pitti Uomo will be held at Florence's Fortezza da Basso from January 14 to 17, 2025. During these days, Fall/Winter 2025 collections from almost 790 brands—of which 45% are international—will showcase the new frontiers of menswear.

Menswear lovers, rejoice! PITTI Uomo is a journey into the world of menswear and its ongoing evolution, a stage for showcasing new ideas, trends, and collaborative projects through an exhibition path divided into five sections (Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out), and a curated calendar of special events, offering a comprehensive look at the many facets of men’s fashion.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

This season will feature two guest designers: Satoshi Kuwata, who has chosen Florence for the first runway show of his brand Setchu, and MM6 Maison Margiela, which has created an exclusive menswear collection for Pitti Uomo. Many other new projects will be presented at the Fortezza, also through special connections with the world of art and photography, from established names to the most innovative research-driven brands, not to mention the lifestyle segment, which is becoming increasingly influential.

This January, Pitti Immagine's winter shows embrace fire as a unifying element to capture the essence and spirit of the upcoming season. FIRE is the theme behind the new ad campaigns for Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo, and Pitti Filati, each uniquely tailored to reflect the character of each event under the creative direction of Angelo Figus, with graphic editing by Alessandro Gori. FIRE will also inspire the design setup at the Fortezza da Basso, curated by Alessandro Moradei.

“It's a recognition of the generative power of this primal element,” says Agostino Poletto, General Director of Pitti Immagine. “Fire brings people together, warming both body and soul, drawing attention and pointing the way. It serves to entertain, amaze, inspire, melt old ideas and habits, and forge new ones—just like fashion does. We'll spark excitement, ignite desires, and focus on challenges and solutions, just as Pitti Uomo always does.”

The Fortezza da Basso, like a grand department store, welcomes Pitti Uomo exhibitors and offers visitors a curated mix of brands and styles that meet market demands. The five sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out – are confirmed, showcasing the Fall/Winter 2025 collections: from classic to casual, including innovative and outdoor wear. This edition also introduces an exciting new addition: Knees Up Running Space @ Pitti Uomo 107.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

The evolution of classic style in its most refined and modern expression. From iconic Made in Italy brands to the pinnacle of international tailoring, this is a journey through the forms and materials of the classic wardrobe, always in touch with the contemporary. The destination: impeccable outfits and formal pieces made to be lived in now, yet crafted to last. A style for today’s gentleman and those of the past, defined by the rhythm of timeless elegance.

MFW - WHITE Milano 2024

WHITE Milano 2024
*A New Chapter in Contemporary Fashion

written Sarah Arendts

As Milan Fashion Week approaches, all eyes are on WHITE Milano, the event that has become a global hub for showcasing cutting-edge women’s prêt-à-porter fashion.

Running from September 19 to 22, WHITE Milano returns with more than 300 brands, pushing the boundaries of style, sustainability, and innovation. Hosted at iconic venues Superstudio Più and BASE Ex-Ansaldo, the event promises a potent mix of established labels and rising stars ready to shape the future of fashion.

WHITE MILANO 2024
MIAORAN STUDIO

WHITE MILANO 2024
THE WHITE RAVEN

The buzz around this year’s WHITE edition is electrifying, thanks to its carefully curated lineup of designers who challenge conventional norms. The show’s emphasis on sustainability and originality sets a new benchmark for contemporary fashion. Alessia Cappello, Milan’s Councilor for Economic Development and Labor Policies, underscores the significance of this moment: "Fashion is Milan’s asset. WHITE continues to be a powerful force in driving forward employment and reputation for the city, with a clear focus on future-forward trends and innovative solutions."

WHITE’s famous "Secret Rooms" are back, spotlighting emerging designers who have been carefully handpicked for their vision and bold approach. This season, talents like YANGKEHAN, MIAORAN, and PROTOTYPE: AM are at the forefront, each transforming traditional craftsmanship into something new and daring.

Secret Rooms Where Emerging Talents Shine

WHITE MILANO 2024
PROTOTYPE: AM

YANGKEHAN blends classic oriental aesthetics with a fresh, contemporary twist, offering intricate handmade garments that radiate feminine power. Meanwhile, MIAORAN’s SS25 collection, "La Tempesta," channels nature’s raw elements through macramé techniques and sustainable practices. From stormy seas to delicate sands, MIAORAN’s vision of genderless clothing marks a new frontier in fashion’s fluidity.

Berlin-based PROTOTYPE: AM flips the script on office wear with its "OUT OF OFFICE" collection, playfully subverting corporate dress codes with a palette dominated by olive green and striking silhouettes.

WHITE’s Loft and Basement spaces have long been where boundary-pushing collections find their home. This year is no different. South African designers—like FIKILE SOKHULU and GOOD FRIDAY—bring a global perspective to the Loft, combining craftsmanship with striking feminine elegance. On the other hand, the Basement is reserved for those pushing the limits of avant-garde design. VANDERWILT’s leather sculptures and VUSCICHÈ’s botany-inspired creations are testament to the growing demand for sustainable, circular fashion practices that still feel luxe and tactile.

WHITE MILANO 2024
CAVIA

WHITE MILANO 2024
YID'PHROGMA

WHITE MILANO 2024
YID'PHROGMA

With ExpoWHITE, the boundaries of fashion are extended far beyond Italy. This season, WHITE welcomes emerging designers from South Korea, Latin America, and Armenia. The global scope is undeniable, with designers like MAN.G from Korea and VERDI from Colombia showcasing collections that merge local heritage with global appeal.

In a major first, WHITE also partners with Istituto Marangoni for the debut edition of the “I’M TALENT SHOWROOM,” spotlighting the institute’s most promising alumni. This collaboration highlights WHITE’s commitment to nurturing the next generation of designers, offering a platform for young creatives like Victoria Jenkins of UNHIDDEN and Jun Zhou of PRONOUNCE to connect with international buyers and fashion industry heavyweights.

ExpoWHITE
A Global Stage for Emerging Markets

WHITE is a cultural platform where fashion, music, and business intersect. With a diverse of events, WHITE solidifies its role in shaping industry trends and future outlooks. WHITE Milano 2024 os going to reflect fashion’s evolving landscape, driving sustainability, creativity, and innovation, and influencing the future of the industry.

credit all images
(c) WHITE MIlano, 2024 and Brands

Lucca *Tuscany’s Tasteful Tradition

Fashion Weekend
LUCCA 2024
Tuscany’s Tasteful Tradition

written Chidozie Obasi

Tuscany is a treasure-trove of ancient culture: from art to craftsmanship, it beholds a quiet potency that has developed through centuries of history.

Lucca Fashion Weekend is one such example: the format created a dynamic encounter between art and the city's historic spaces, tracing new and innovative exploratory paths with the aim of enhancing the local territory and artisanal know-how.

Bottega Bernard

LUCCA Fashion Weekend 2024
Bottega Bernard

Craft tradition and new contemporary visions were the lanes that carried the event along, becoming crossroads and meeting points between generations. A two-day program full of appointments saw a calendar of high artistic and cultural value: installations, talks, exhibitions and presentations were hosted in the most prestigious historical locations.

Three pillars added a firm structure to the event, united by innovation and sustainability: firstly, LFW End was container of presentations for young independent brands, ateliers and local and national craft realities, and talks with independent magazines; LFW Exp, was intended for exhibitions and installations spread among the city’s streets, art and urban fabric in privileged conversation; Lastly, LFW Off promoted initiatives and events by the commercial activities, along the main shopping streets will animate the city streets with presentations and extraordinary openings.

Among the things worthy of note in the first section was: Sotterranea, an exhibition project that saw the city's basement hosting independent brands and prestigious craft realities.

Among the independent brands, once could have found: Damiano Marini, Invaerso, Leight Studio, Maison Lamoureux, Maria Patrizia Marra for accessories; Saman Loira and Aza Lea for clothing. Rovi Lucca, with the Herbarium collection, was the protagonist of an elegant and sophisticated installation in the setting of the Botanical Garden; Bottega Bernard with the UNMUTE collection created a conceptual and contemporary catwalk in the basement of the Baluardo San Regolo.

Rovi Lucca

LUCCA Fashion Weekend 2024
L'Eight Studio

Saman Loira

The Loggiato Pretorio was the stage for a three-day masterclass curated by Le vanità Profumerie and Armani Beauty. More weaving with the exhibition at the Palazzo Mansi National Museum of the ancient rustic weaving workshop Maria Niemack, who is credited with recovering and enhancing the ancient technique of rustic weaving. On display were ancient nineteenth and twentieth-century looms and tools recovered from the area along with a sampler of the various types of fabrics, trimmings and balloons made with these tools.

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(c) Lucca 2024 and brands

WHITE Show Milano *Redefining Summer Fashion Standards

Milano Fashion Week
WHITE Show Milano
New Summer Fashion Manifesto

written Sarah Arendts

As June's swelter descended on Milan, the WHITE Show completely reimagined the summer fashion game at this year’s Milan Fashion Week.

Throwing typical resort clichés out the window, the event rolled out a dizzying array of ensembles perfect for everything from city adventures to sunset beach lounging.

WHITE Milano 2024
June Edition

This year’s WHITE Show emerged as a beacon of high summer fashion, transcending the usual sandy clichés of sun hats and swimwear. The collections brought versatility to the forefront, perfect for bustling city streets and tranquil beach escapes alike. This broadened vision of summer wear, reflective of a burgeoning synergy between fashion and the growing tourism sector, underscored the season’s evolving narratives.

Guided by Massimiliano Bizzi, the Founder of WHITE, the event navigated a challenging global market with audacity. Bizzi's boldness in launching this new event at such a critical time paid off, reflecting in his confident declaration,

“Launching a new event at this time is undoubtedly a bold move, but it has rewarded us greatly.”

Massimiliano Bizzi, the Founder of WHITE

A standout feature of WHITE was its role as a nexus for emerging markets. Here, underrepresented brands found a vibrant stage to display their creative prowess, enriching the global fashion dialogue and introducing fresh designs and perspectives that have often been sidelined.

The fair’s carefully curated selections boasted unique materials, meticulous craftsmanship, and rich cultural narratives, weaving a rich tapestry of fashion as much about identity as aesthetics. Highlighting this narrative was the “Aurora” collection by Agua by Agua Bendita, a tribute to Colombian artisanship with its exquisite, heritage-rich designs.

The international appeal of the event was palpable, attracting top-tier buyers from luxury strongholds in the Middle East to retail giants in Japan, such as Takashimaya and BayCrew’s, spotlighting WHITE’s critical role in shaping fashion trends across continents.

The event skillfully married fashion with lifestyle. Evenings at the White Resort garden buzzed with performances and gastronomic experiences, crafting an immersive atmosphere that celebrated the aesthetics and ethos of summer. The Lounge space, for instance, showcased the sporty-luxury hybrids of brands like SUMMER GAMES, which resonated with modern, eclectic tastes.

The latest iteration of the WHITE Show raised the bar for summer fashion and exemplified the dynamic evolution of fashion events to meet new consumer demands and market shifts. By interlacing creativity, market insight, and cultural diversity, WHITE has sewn a vibrant new narrative into the global fashion fabric, heralding a promising future for its diverse audience.

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(c) WHITE MIlano June 2024

Old Threads, New Wonders *Fashion in Helsinki 2024

Fashion in Helsinki 2024
*Old Threads, New Wonders

written Chidozie Obasi

Something the contemporary luxury market said about the unnecessary pace of change in the industry got Finnish designers thinking about how to shape-shift from their customary minimal take into a more subversive appeal.

“There’s beauty in creating something timeless and seasonless, that you can wear on a wealth of occasions—cashmere, merino wool and cotton are all part of the Scandi equation—but the trick comes with making a dress a favourite piece with an elevated seam,” pondered ALMADA LABEL’s Alexa Dagmar and Linda Juhola. Just like many of their peers, that's where they started for their brand, which looks to elevate timeless classics (cue: knits) into a refreshing slew of smart essentials.

So why, one wonders, is their collection so insistent about a silhouette that was essentially a wear-anywhere knit? There were multi versions with a delicate belt, a satin style with romantic sleeves, and one with an elegant waistline. Granted, we're talking Scandi fashion, so there's a possibility that a knit suit might indeed be a favourite piece. But some of these pieces will have to work at becoming wardrobe staples. The most disconcerting feature was the neutrality of the palette used that was present across the toppers and had little-to-no newness in tonal range.

©Atlas Woo

©Atlas Woo

Fashion In Helsinki 2024
©Atlas Woo

But despite all manner of heaviness, the label has a solid, show-worthy ground that will most definitely work in their favour with retailers. Speaking of solid identities—and all the creative sensibilities this term harmonises—Fashion in Helsinki is one such example: as the chief platform for emerging talents in Finnish fashion, this season it showcased the country’s creativity teamed with the designers’ artistic practice through presentations and talks to local and global consumers.

Organised by Juni Communication, the event featured a collective runway show that comprised revered Scandi designers Sofia Ilmonen, ROLF EKROTH, HEDVIG, Jenny Hytönen and VAIN, together with a runway that championed students from Aalto University for the rise and rise of their remarkable talent. Both runways have had a fresh impact on the Finnish fashion scene, because change is very much at the core of their idea. And that's usually a good thing.

Fashion In Helsinki 2024
NAÌYTOÌS RUNWAY
©Kristian Presnal

©Kristian Presnal

©Kristian Presnal

This season, the runways relied heavily on two distinct visual resources: emotion and abstraction, detaching from the common threads of minimalism and focusing on an avant-garde aestheticism that imbued novelty and took it to the extreme. Unlike the brands we came across in the showroom tour (which had a more commercially-appetible vein, in tandem with current market needs), there was a newever edge that took the Finnish fashion industry by storm. A somewhat relaxed chaos, peculiarly present across the collection of Aalto’s students which have shown a shrewd identity not only in garment construction, but also in their respective ethical function. The myriad of upcycling techniques that were used in these sophomore collections were indeed worthy of note, because of the clever marriage of material and experimentation, which usher a new creative equation that looks to sustainability and functionality.

What’s more, the impressive cultural tapestry of Finland spans across its huge array of references that continue to deliver meticulous ideas from the country’s designers—an impressive symbol of growth that will herald a positive development for their businesses. Their winning ticket? “Not having to shout!” exclaims Finnish designer Sofia Ilmonen. “Because at times, it’s the simple gestures that make for the most compelling craft.”

WHITE Milan 2024 *Revolutionizing Fashion

Milano Fashion Week
WHITE Milan 2024
Revolutionizing Fashion

written Monica de Luna

WHITE Milan stands out as a pinnacle of innovation and a gathering point for global fashion enthusiasts.

Running from February 22 to 25, this edition represented a pivotal moment in the event's journey, demonstrating a bold leap in its commitment to sustainability, inclusivity, and aesthetic innovation.

Brand: MIAORAN Studio

WHITE Milano 2024
Brand: PROTOTYPE AM

The introduction of the WHITE Village, a B2C initiative, was a testament to the fair's commitment to embracing a broader audience, attracting over 18,096 visitors. This initiative, alongside the main event, underscored Milan's pivotal role in the fashion industry, drawing in a global crowd of buyers, editors, and fashion professionals.

With its blend of innovation, inclusivity, and sustainability, WHITE Milan is crafting a new narrative for the fashion industry, one that resonates with the sign of the times.

The show's layout itself was a narrative of change, eschewing traditional design for a dynamic interplay of black, pink, and mirrored details that promised an immersive experience. This transformation was not just physical but also symbolic of the event's broader vision to reflect the current zeitgeist, where fashion serves as a mirror to society's shifts and transformations.

Massimiliano Bizzi, President and Founder of WHITE, emphasized the post-pandemic world's demands on the fashion industry. He highlighted the event's role in setting a benchmark for women's fashion in Milan and outlined the ambitious path ahead, marked by innovation and collaboration. The Expo White project and the (Textile)Times initiative are perfect examples, aiming to bridge Milan with emerging markets and support international designers.

The event showcased an impressive brand mix, with around 300 brands presenting their collections. Notably, the Secret Rooms project offered a unique discovery experience, highlighting the creative prowess of designers like PROTOTYPE:AM and YANGKEHAN. YUME YUME, the special guest, captivated the audience with its "The travel of a single drop" collection, blending originality with whimsical details.

Simona Severini, General Manager of WHITE, eloquently stated that this edition perfectly balanced content with its container.

The event's selection process, favoring daring and emotionally charged collections, showcased WHITE's commitment to pushing boundaries and fostering a dialogue between fashion and its audience.

Brand: LaMilanesa

WHITE Milano 2024 Edition
Brand: GOTI

Brand: Kasei Archive

The event's sustainability focus, highlighted through a collaboration with the United Nations Industrial Development Organization, showcased a commitment to addressing global textile waste challenges, reinforcing the event's role as a catalyst for change within the industry. WHITE Milan's latest edition has (again) solidified its status as a key player on the global fashion stage and also as a visionary force, ready to navigate the complexities of the modern world.

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(c) WHITE MIlano, 2024