Paris Fashion Week AW25

THE FABRIC OF NOW
*Paris Fashion Week 2025 Highlights

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI

Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025-2026 unfolded as an encoded manifesto, where fabric became language and silhouettes spoke in tongues. Designers unearthed buried histories, reconstructing past blueprints into a future without borders.

The runway was an evolving stage—DIOR dismantled gender constructs, LOUIS VUITTON mapped the velocity of movement, VALENTINO engineered intimacy as spectacle. Vans infiltrated Valentino, threading rebellion through the needle of luxury. This was a transmission. CHLOÉ reactivated an artifact, the Paddington bag, as an emblem of memory in motion. ZIMMERMANN stretched the seams between myth and reality. Vans infiltrated Valentino, threading rebellion through the needle of luxury.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

VALENTINO Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Alessandro Michele’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection for VALENTINO continued his redefinition of the house’s identity, expanding on the foundations set in his debut. The show, titled Le Méta-Théâtre Des Intimités, transformed the runway into a dystopian, Lynchian space, evoking the surreal ambiance of a public restroom—an environment stripped of traditional constructs, where personal and collective identities dissolve.

Structured ‘70s-inspired suits, sculptural coats, and richly embellished dresses unfolded in deep VALENTINO red, ivory, and ink black, carrying an almost ritualistic quality. The collaboration with VANS introduced a new dimension, reworking the classic Authentic sneaker in bold checkerboard patterns and an “I Love My Vans” motif intertwined with VALENTINO’s logo. Lace veils layered over raw-edged tailoring, gloves extended beyond the elbow, and sculptural accessories punctuated the silhouettes with a sense of quiet subversion. Michele’s vision explored intimacy as a performative space, where identity is neither fixed nor singular but constantly in flux, layered like fabric, revealing and concealing with each movement.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
VALENTINO x VANS

Paris Fashion Week FW25
DIOR Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
DIOR Show

DIOR Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Maria Grazia Chiuri's Fall 2025 collection for DIOR was a sartorial journey through time, drawing inspiration from Virginia Woolf's "Orlando" to blur the lines between masculinity and femininity. The runway transformed into a theatrical spectacle, with models navigating a set adorned with mechanical pterodactyls and looming icebergs, evoking a sense of timelessness and evolution.

Chiuri revisited the archives, paying homage to predecessors like Gianfranco Ferré and John Galliano. The reimagined white shirt, a nod to Ferré's architectural approach, became a canvas for exploration, featuring detachable ruffled collars reminiscent of Elizabethan ruffs, symbolizing the fluidity of identity. The collection's palette transitioned from somber blacks to ethereal whites, mirroring the narrative of transformation. Lace gowns juxtaposed with military-inspired coats underscored the harmonious blend of strength and delicacy. The revival of the "J'adore Dior" T-shirt, an emblem of Galliano's era, was recontextualized, bridging past and present. Chiuri's exploration of gender-bending silhouettes and the interplay of historical motifs with contemporary aesthetics reaffirmed Dior's commitment to innovation while honoring its rich legacy.

LOUIS VUITTON Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Nicolas Ghesquière's vision for LOUIS VUITTON's Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was a love letter to the golden age of train travel, encapsulating the romance and anticipation of journeys. Staged at the historic Gare du Nord, the show immersed attendees in the bustling ambiance of a Parisian train station, complete with the rhythmic hum of Kraftwerk's "Trans-Europe Express."

Ghesquière presented an eclectic array of silhouettes, from voluminous midi skirts paired with heavyweight knit vests to pinstriped boiler suits accented with vivid scarves. The accessories were a testament to LOUIS VUITTON's legacy in travel, with models clutching steamer-inspired handbags and oversized duffel totes, reminiscent of classic luggage pieces.

The collaboration with set designer Es Devlin resulted in a runway that mirrored the transient nature of travel, with models embodying characters from various walks of life, each telling their own story. This new collection celebrates the art of travel, highlighting the brand’s connection to movement, heritage, and design, with historical elements woven into a contemporary vision that unfolds as a continuous narrative.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
LOUIS VUITTON Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
LOUIS VUITTON Show

CHLOÉ Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Under the creative direction of Chemena Kamali, CHLOÉ's Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection was an ode to the multifaceted nature of femininity, exploring the interplay between strength and softness. Kamali studied the archives, reviving the iconic Paddington bag, a beloved accessory from the early 2000s, now reimagined for the modern woman.

The runway showcased a harmonious blend of opulence and practicality, with lavish, embellished dresses juxtaposed against pared-down, utilitarian pieces. Broad logo belts cinched sheer, low-rise maxi skirts, adding a touch of structure to the ethereal ensembles. Ballet flats, poised to become the season's must-have, offered an effortlessly chic touch, embodying the brand's signature blend of elegance and ease. Kamali's exploration of plurality and the influences that shape women's identities resulted in a collection that felt very personal and universally relatable, resonating with women across generations.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
CHLOÉ Show

Paris Fashion Week FW25
ZIMMERMANN Show

ZIMMERMANN Ready-To-Wear Fall/Winter 2025/2026

Nicky Zimmermann’s Fall 2025 collection, Hypnotic, built a world where storytelling unfolded in fabric, silhouette, movement. Inspired by the haunting atmosphere of Picnic at Hanging Rock on its 50th anniversary, the collection absorbed the film’s lingering sense of mystery without directly referencing its costumes. Instead, elements from the narrative were distilled into textures, structures, and motifs that shaped each look with quiet precision.

Lace-trimmed lingerie dresses, pinstripe suits, and structured wool coats introduced a balance of softness and strength, while hidden details—maps of Mt. Macedon printed on silk, hand-drawn Valentine’s Day cards stitched between layers of chiffon—wove subtle fragments of the story into the collection. The use of Mongolian shearling, leather-wrapped boots, and braided trims reinforced a tactile complexity, adding depth to the compositions without overpowering their fluidity. A shift in palette from soft, sunlit hues to deep moss greens and midnight blues signaled an evolving mood, with textures becoming richer and silhouettes taking on a more dramatic form.

Polished stone jewelry and an almond-shaped suede bag introduced grounding elements to the collection, serving as counterpoints to the weightlessness of chiffon and the elongation of sleeves. ZIMMERMANN shaped Hypnotic with an attention to atmosphere, allowing the garments to move between clarity and enigma.

Paris Fashion Week FW25
ZIMMERMANN Show

Milan Fashion Week AW25

MILAN AW25
*Runways Framed, Streets Unfiltered

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

In times where society’s downturns are increasingly commonplace, fashion's mission is to exude a profound sense of societal relevance that can create both desire and intent: a purpose to set alight its deep connotation beyond mere conventions.

The Milan shows have proven to stick to a traditional code of conduct: a free of fuss aesthetic, teamed with pared-back, minimalist lines prevail over its British and American counterparts, where everything is blown to the max. The Milan shows, after all, wholly reflect the DNA of century-old traditions, and it's no surprise that the people of the city share that very sentiment. Gucci went back to its roots and archive for Fall 2025, as the house's founder Sabato De Sarno announced his departure earlier in February. This season, the lineup featured a lean towards a new colourway (dark, forest green) and a shift from its red (rosso ancora, as the house used to name it), bringing a newfound sense of femininity and glamour to the apparel.

MFW FW25
during PRADA

MFW FW25

MFW FW25
ICEBERG Show

MFW FW25
during ETRO

MFW FW25
during VIVETTA

Now, speaking of Iceberg, the brand seemed to be eschewing all manners of fuss and grounding to a linear approach and take of tailoring: tones are subdued, maxi logos are a far cry from the visual language and the pared-back appeal seems to be winning the race. On similar territory, Fendi celebrated its centenary this Fall with a collection that harked back to Silvia Venturini Fendi's memories and Karl: the collection renewed its affection for the house's classics, bringing forth a slew of timeless pieces that had sleek silhouettes, embellished details and a sinuous touch overall. Jil Sander, Prada, Moschino and Moschino offered levity and a dash of irreverence to the modern woman. Diesel offered tons of playfulness while Etro, D&G's runway had upbeat tempo ('cool girls', strutted both inside and outside the venue), and Vivetta continued its design path.

MFW FW25
during DIESEL

MFW FW25
during GUCCI

MFW FW25
during MOSCHINO

MFW FW25
during DOLCE & GABBANA

MFW FW25

all visuals

production  ONE.FASHION.AGENCY
art-director Mariia Nikiforova 
project manager Viacheslav Nikiforov
seen by Vitalii Verkhoturov

PITTI UOMO 107 - 2025

Boys on Fire
*PITTI UOMO 107

written CHIDOZIE OBASI

The winter edition of Pitti Uomo will be held at Florence's Fortezza da Basso from January 14 to 17, 2025. During these days, Fall/Winter 2025 collections from almost 790 brands—of which 45% are international—will showcase the new frontiers of menswear.

Menswear lovers, rejoice! PITTI Uomo is a journey into the world of menswear and its ongoing evolution, a stage for showcasing new ideas, trends, and collaborative projects through an exhibition path divided into five sections (Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out), and a curated calendar of special events, offering a comprehensive look at the many facets of men’s fashion.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

This season will feature two guest designers: Satoshi Kuwata, who has chosen Florence for the first runway show of his brand Setchu, and MM6 Maison Margiela, which has created an exclusive menswear collection for Pitti Uomo. Many other new projects will be presented at the Fortezza, also through special connections with the world of art and photography, from established names to the most innovative research-driven brands, not to mention the lifestyle segment, which is becoming increasingly influential.

This January, Pitti Immagine's winter shows embrace fire as a unifying element to capture the essence and spirit of the upcoming season. FIRE is the theme behind the new ad campaigns for Pitti Uomo, Pitti Bimbo, and Pitti Filati, each uniquely tailored to reflect the character of each event under the creative direction of Angelo Figus, with graphic editing by Alessandro Gori. FIRE will also inspire the design setup at the Fortezza da Basso, curated by Alessandro Moradei.

“It's a recognition of the generative power of this primal element,” says Agostino Poletto, General Director of Pitti Immagine. “Fire brings people together, warming both body and soul, drawing attention and pointing the way. It serves to entertain, amaze, inspire, melt old ideas and habits, and forge new ones—just like fashion does. We'll spark excitement, ignite desires, and focus on challenges and solutions, just as Pitti Uomo always does.”

The Fortezza da Basso, like a grand department store, welcomes Pitti Uomo exhibitors and offers visitors a curated mix of brands and styles that meet market demands. The five sections – Fantastic Classic, Futuro Maschile, Dynamic Attitude, Superstyling, and I Go Out – are confirmed, showcasing the Fall/Winter 2025 collections: from classic to casual, including innovative and outdoor wear. This edition also introduces an exciting new addition: Knees Up Running Space @ Pitti Uomo 107.

Pitti Uomo

Pitti Uomo

The evolution of classic style in its most refined and modern expression. From iconic Made in Italy brands to the pinnacle of international tailoring, this is a journey through the forms and materials of the classic wardrobe, always in touch with the contemporary. The destination: impeccable outfits and formal pieces made to be lived in now, yet crafted to last. A style for today’s gentleman and those of the past, defined by the rhythm of timeless elegance.