The Art of Being Riccardo Simonetti

.cover story

The Making of Riccardo Simonetti

written + interview ALBAN E. SMAJLI

For more than a decade, Florian Ferino has helped shape the image through which Riccardo Simonetti is seen. Their collaboration began with Lindsay Lohan-inspired beach waves and gradually became a shared visual language. By now, Ferino can read a facial expression in the mirror before a word is said, Simonetti can sit down without explaining every detail, and the measure of a successful look has become surprisingly simple: “If he starts taking selfies, I’ve done everything right.” Over time, the hair itself has become an archive of experiments, references and changing preferences.

That history also reflects the space Simonetti had to create for beauty within his own career. Early on, twenty minutes in a makeup chair was considered enough because he was a man, even though his hair alone could take ninety. He and Ferino simply started before everybody else. Today, his role as a face of Kérastase makes that shift visible. For Simonetti, making Ferino part of the story also means acknowledging authorship that usually remains behind the name in front of the camera. “I owe a lot of my success in the beauty industry to the people who help me look the way I do — so they should get their flowers too.” This time, the credit is visible.

Riccardo wears a jacket by COS, a shirt and pants by SEIDENSTICKER STUDIO, an earring by CELIA VON BARCHEWITZ and gloves by ROECKL. Florian wears a jacket and shirt by COS and pants by SANDRO.

Riccardo wears a jacket by COS, a shirt and pants by SEIDENSTICKER STUDIO, an earring by CELIA VON BARCHEWITZ and gloves by ROECKL.

Alban E. Smajli
Do you remember the first look where you realised you were developing a shared hair aesthetic?

Florian Ferino
For me, that moment was at our very first shoot. Riccardo said he wanted loose beach waves like Lindsay Lohan, and I did them the way I had them in my head. From his reaction, I immediately realised that I had done exactly what he had imagined. He said to me, “Perfect, that’s exactly how I wanted it. You’re the first person who has managed to get my hair like this.” Over time, you also develop a shared language. Today, I know exactly what he means before he has even said it. And that’s where a shared aesthetic develops for me.

Riccardo Simonetti
I don’t think it was even such an extreme look. It was more about fine-tuning the look I already had. My signature hairstyle is beach waves, and the moment Florian styled them, something just clicked. Suddenly my hair always looked the way I wanted it to. Other people noticed it too, and more and more people started telling me that I was their hair inspiration and complimenting the hairstyles Florian had created.

By now, can you tell that Riccardo feels comfortable with a look before he even says anything?

FF
I can see it in the little things – his facial expression, the way he looks at himself in the mirror. When someone feels comfortable with their hair, their whole body language changes immediately. And with Riccardo, I know pretty well by now: if he starts taking selfies, I’ve done everything right. (laughs)

And Riccardo, when did you reach the point where you could sit down in Florian’s chair without having to explain what you wanted first?

RS
I think that happened relatively quickly, because Florian knew how I wanted my hair before I did. Of course, we still talk things through, especially when we want to try something new, but particularly in the beginning he taught me how my hair falls best.

Long hair carries years of its own growth with it. Do you ever think of Riccardo’s hair as an archive of the time you’ve spent working together?

FF
Absolutely. When I see old pictures, I immediately remember which event or shoot they were from. The hair really is like a little journey through the last ten years, and some of those looks have now become hair references for other looks.

RS
I definitely think about it whenever Florian says we need to cut my ends. That’s always a little challenge for me, but after more than a decade in which nobody else has cut my hair, there’s definitely a lot of trust there.

Chronologiste Night Serum by KÉRASTASE
Regenerating overnight hair serum with Longevity Complex for strength, smoothness and shine.

Florian wears a suit by EMPORIO ARMANI and a shirt by FALKE.

Florian, is there an earlier hairstyle of Riccardo’s that you could still recreate completely from memory?

FF
Probably all of them. The looks from the early years in particular are still very present in my mind because we experimented a lot back then, and Riccardo has developed so much visually. Some hairstyles I can still picture very clearly because I practised them several times on a mannequin head. It’s like riding a bike – you don’t forget it.

Has working together for so many years changed the way you both think about hair, and particularly the role of haircare for men?

FF
Definitely. Haircare is often underestimated, especially when it comes to men. But hair is just as much a part of someone’s look and personality as clothing or makeup. And especially with long hair, you can immediately see whether it’s healthy and well cared for. With Riccardo, we’ve learned over the years that good styling only really works when the hair has the perfect foundation – when it’s cared for and the ends are properly cut.

RS
I think we also grew with the platform that came from the increasing attention our work received. Suddenly there were all these people waiting to see what look we would do next, and that definitely motivated us. Especially in the beginning, I hardly wore any makeup because somehow it never really fit into the way things were organised. We had to create that space for ourselves first, and that started with planning enough time for hair and makeup on set.

Because I’m a man, I used to be given a maximum of 20 minutes in the makeup chair. My hair alone takes at least an hour and a half to style. So for Florian and me, that meant starting work before work, so that nobody else had to wait for us once the actual job started. The privilege of being able to bring my own hair and makeup artist is also something I had to earn over time. Especially in the beginning, that was by no means a given for a man.

The fact that today, as a man, I get to be the face of a brand like Kérastase is a personal milestone. It shows people that inspiration can come from anywhere – women can take inspiration from men and men from women. Especially in the beauty industry, gender is a performance, and I think it should rely less on stereotypes.

You have a very recognisable look by now. How do you stop that recognisability from turning into routine?

FF
By not holding on too tightly to what has already worked. I think it’s important that a look still feels like him, but also tells something new. Even his signature look – those beautiful, glossy waves – has changed with the times over the years. Sometimes there’s more volume, sometimes less, sometimes the hair is wavier and sometimes straighter. It always has that recognisable quality, but it never looks exactly the same.

RS
Even if the overall look stays relatively similar, we’re constantly changing small details. Florian might make the wave a little smoother. Root volume was incredibly important to me in the beginning, whereas now I prefer less volume. We evolve with the times. And what I love is that Florian never gets tired of working on his skill set, even if that means teaching himself something completely new.

Riccardo wears a total look by NOWRUBI.

Glaze Drops by KÉRASTASE
Lightweight hydrating hair oil for radiant shine and a silky, frizz-free finish without weighing hair down.

Florian, what part of your work on Riccardo usually remains invisible in the finished photograph?

FF
In the photo, you only see the final result – basically the tip of the iceberg – but not all the small decisions and preparations that came before it. Riccardo often has an idea and already has a very precise vision, which can sometimes be quite unusual. My job is then to prepare for that hairstyle and figure out how to make it work. But those are exactly the kinds of challenges I love because they make me think differently, try new approaches and learn new skills. Of course, you don’t see any of that process in the final image.

This time, Florian is in front of the camera too. What changes when the person who usually creates the look becomes part of the visual story himself?

FF
For me, it’s honestly quite unfamiliar. I’m normally behind the camera – or rather, behind the look – concentrating on making sure Riccardo looks good from every angle. Suddenly being part of the image myself feels completely different. And that’s also what makes this shoot so special to me. It shows our shared history and the friendship that has developed over many years and countless looks.

RS
I think it’s nice that Florian gets to be seen too. I have enormous respect for the work of hair and makeup artists, and I owe a lot of my success in the beauty industry to the people who help me look the way I do – so they should get their flowers too. Florian and I have worked together for more than ten years, and he has become just as much his own brand as I have. So it’s even nicer that we get to experience this moment together, not only as creative collaborators but also as friends.

Was there ever a look Florian had to convince you to try, which later became completely natural to you?

RS
I think it’s usually the other way around. (laughs) I’m the one who keeps coming to Florian with absurd ideas and sometimes has to convince him. Like an extremely long braid that looks as though someone has shot through it with a gun. Or bleached eyebrows. But we always see the whole thing as a collaboration. We collect ideas together and have a huge archive of looks we can draw from. Our list of hairstyles and makeup looks we still want to try is almost endless.

And is there one earlier hairstyle that immediately takes you back to where you were and how you felt at the time?

RS
I think that would be my wedding hairstyle. We tried the look for the first time when we shot my wedding look for Vogue, and I immediately knew: this is exactly the hairstyle I want to get married in.

Riccardo wears a suit by SANDRO, a tank top and belt by VERSACE, loafers by FERRAGAMO and a watch by BVLGARI. Florian wears a suit by EMPORIO ARMANI, a shirt by FALKE and shoes by THE ROW.

Riccardo wears a total look by WILLIAM FAN.

Riccardo wears a suit by SANDRO, a tank top and belt by VERSACE, loafers by FERRAGAMO and a watch by BVLGARI.

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talents RICCARDO SIMONETTI + FLORIAN FERINO
photography JONAS HUCKSTORF
styling DENNIS SCHNEIDER
hair + make up FLORIAN FERINO using haircare by KÉRASTASE
production ALBAN E. SMAJLI
production coordination MARK ASHKINS
fashion assistant FRANZISKA FUCHS
special thanks to KÉRASTASE + R+ COMMUNICATIONS

credits
all Images (c) LE MILE
and Jonas Huckstorf