ELIE SAAB H&M — An Evening of Glamour in Berlin

collaboration

ELIE SAAB H&M Celebrates a New Chapter in Berlin

LE MILE

On October 14, H&M celebrated its collaboration with ELIE SAAB at Berlin’s historic Orangerie Charlottenburg, inviting guests into an evening devoted to the glamour and elegance that have shaped the designer’s work. A red carpet and specially conceived campaign installation welcomed Emilia Schüle, Caro Daur, Nic Kaufmann, Lera Abova, Stefanie Giesinger and Stella Bossi, among others, before a curtain opened to reveal the spectacular setting prepared for the night.

The ELIE SAAB H&M collection launches on October 22, 2026, in selected H&M stores and online.

ELIE SAAB H&M Celebrates Its Collaboration in Berlin
/ photographed by Teun Sand

Behind it, a long table stretched through a dining room illuminated in deep red, transforming the historic Orangerie into a striking setting for the celebration. The theatrical reveal, the richness of the lighting and the extraordinary attention to detail created an atmosphere that was remarkable to experience in person. Every element appeared carefully considered, from the arrangement of the dinner to the dramatic use of colour, reflecting the sophistication and sense of occasion associated with ELIE SAAB.

The evening continued with a surprise live performance by French musician Braths, also known as Thomas Horeczko, followed by another memorable moment as cake artist Sophia Stolz unveiled an elaborate wedding cake inspired by the bridal gown from the collection. The reference to Saab’s beginnings in bridalwear in Beirut felt particularly fitting, connecting the celebration to the history of the house. Cocktails and a DJ set by Kean Farrar accompanied the final part of what was a truly exceptional evening in Berlin.

ELIE SAAB H&M Collaboration
/ Behind The Scene

Ann-Sofie Johansson + Elie Saab

Founded in Beirut in 1982, ELIE SAAB has established an unmistakable design language defined by elegant silhouettes, intricate embellishment and meticulous construction, signatures that also shape the new H&M collaboration. Among the collection’s highlights are a green evening gown with dramatic dégradé colouring, a sculptural black dress with an oversized bow and train, and sharply constructed tailoring finished with delicate embroidery and shimmering sequins. The collection also introduces menswear, relaxed separates and accessories, extending the house’s aesthetic across a complete wardrobe. As Elie Saab describes it, the collaboration is “a reflection of who we are,” bringing his distinctive vision to a wider audience.

The ELIE SAAB H&M collection launches on October 22, 2026, in selected H&M stores and online.

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all images (c) H&M Press, event photographed by Teun Sand

Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2027 - Nicolas Ghesquière

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A review of the Louis Vuitton Spring Summer 2027 by Nicolas Ghesquière

A Hotter Future Calls for a Lighter Louis Vuitton

LE MILE

Thirty-four concept cars occupied the Louvre’s Cour Carrée as models crossed its painted road markings, an elaborate arrangement for giving pedestrians right of way. For Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Nicolas Ghesquière was reconsidering how much of his own architecture a woman needs to wear. He has described himself to Vogue as “a specialist in armour”; this season, the opening white dress hung from the shoulders in uneven, translucent planes, with black lace-up shoes keeping the outfit firmly on the pavement.

Louis Vuitton Womens Spring/Summer 2027 Scenography
/ Ergonomie Collection by Nicolas Ghesquière

Ergonomie was the collection’s title, a word more readily associated with an office chair than a Paris runway. Ghesquière gave it a pressing reason to be here. “The world is getting warm,” he told journalists, explaining how heat had affected his thinking about clothes. James Chinlund’s wedge-shaped vehicles, raised at different heights and decorated with Vuitton’s Damier checks, imagined another technological leap in getting around. The clothes addressed the less glamorous matter of what to wear when the city becomes too hot.

Flat lids allowed luggage to be stacked; canvas lightened a covering previously made from leather. Ease was a practical problem the house set out to solve. Ghesquière returned to it inside the garment, removing internal layers from tailoring and using composite chiffons alongside scarf fabrics in silk and cashmere. The technical effort went into reducing what the customer would have to carry. That is a useful definition of luxury for a house capable of making even a journey look like an undertaking.

Louis Vuitton Womens Spring/Summer 2027 Detail
/ Ergonomie Collection by Nicolas Ghesquière

Louis Vuitton Womens Spring/Summer 2027 Detail
/ Ergonomie Collection by Nicolas Ghesquière

In the checked tailoring, a grey jacket extended into fabric that streamed beside the leg, while a black-and-white ensemble let its fronts fold over matching trousers. The patterns provided an orderly grid which the body kept disturbing. The opening dress had diagonal changes in transparency that complicated its surface without building volume around the wearer. This was the collection’s most persuasive work: construction that became visible through the act of wearing it.

A yellow leather biker jacket over loose black trousers offered a particularly direct invitation to get dressed, with little obligation to adopt the entire Vuitton universe. The dresses scattered with iridescent diamonds asked for more attention. Their angular patches caught the light across a transparent ground, preserving something of Ghesquière’s taste for a faceted shell. He could still produce an extraordinary surface on a dress that hung quite simply from narrow straps.

The final black suit came with a broad sweep of checked fabric gathered in one hand and trailing across the runway, a beautiful complication to give someone crossing a road. The jewelled fringes lowered over the models’ eyes also made a curious accessory for a collection concerned with accommodating the body. Ghesquière had loosened the clothes while retaining a small piece of armour directly in front of the face. Those interventions reveal the limit of the functional argument, and something essential to the collection’s appeal.

Louis Vuitton Womens Spring/Summer 2027 Scenography
/ Ergonomie Collection by Nicolas Ghesquière

Vuitton is selling the pleasure of an exceptional appearance alongside any improvement in comfort. Its quieter clothes face a different test. A nearly plain white dress is available at every level of the market; here, its cut and material have to make the distinction convincing. The fit will need to do as much persuading as the image. Elaborate engineering carries little force if its benefits remain an explanation in the show notes. The opening look made the strongest case because its construction was already legible. The angled panels shifted across the torso, leaving the dress loose enough for the wearer to determine its outline. Ghesquière has spent years making the future look extraordinary; here, he made a case for making it bearable.

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all images (c) Louis Vuitton Press

Valentino Spring/Summer 2027 - Inside Alessandro Michele’s Antibiblioteca

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A review of the Valentino Spring/Summer 2027 by Alessandro Michele

Valentino Spring/Summer 2027 Opens the Unread Wardrobe

LE MILE

Long reading tables ran beneath green lamps, surrounded by shelves in the vast 19th-century room. The Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève gave Valentino’s Spring/Summer 2027 show a setting already dense with its own rituals, which Alessandro Michele quickly disturbed with strobe lights and Troye Sivan’s “Party” playing on loop. Guests arrived carrying books of their own, which were collected at the entrance for donation after the show.

Valentino Spring Summer 2027
/ Antibiblioteca by Alessandro Michele

Valentino Spring Summer 2027
/ Antibiblioteca by Alessandro Michele at Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève

Valentino Spring Summer 2027
/ Antibiblioteca by Alessandro Michele

Valentino Spring Summer 2027
/ Antibiblioteca by Alessandro Michele

He called the collection Antibiblioteca, taking its name from Nassim Nicholas Taleb’s account of Umberto Eco’s personal library of some 30,000 books. Taleb was fascinated by the unread volumes and the knowledge they still contained. Michele transferred that idea to fashion, imagining clothes as carriers of lives still available to us. His notes also refer to the Japanese practice of tsundoku, the accumulation of unread books, and to Giorgio Agamben’s writing on potentiality. Across 80 looks, the runway became Michele’s own catalogue of possibilities. The opening established a silhouette around jewel-toned satin bustiers worn with knee-length skirts in crinkled crepon and floral silk dévoré. Leather entered the sequence with a harder surface, and feathered hems changed the line around the leg as the models walked. The exposed torso brought a directness to the collection. An ’80s-shaped jacket set with jewel buttons appeared over lace biker shorts, and a hot-pink strapless gown revealed a circular ruffle at the back as it turned, finished with an enormous black bow.

Double-breasted jackets were deliberately fastened off-centre, gathering fabric around the waist, while silk boxers rose high above trouser waistbands. Baseball caps printed with “Villain Teen” cut through the tailoring with the kind of peculiar humour that has followed Michele throughout his career. Jewellery became part of the silhouette, with long strands of pearls and oversized crystal pieces covering shirts or bare skin.

Valentino Spring Summer 2027
/ Antibiblioteca by Alessandro Michele

Satin columns allowed their construction to hold attention, while ruffles and rhinestones appeared elsewhere with greater theatricality. A black velvet dress plunging to the navel was covered at the neckline with gold and pearls, giving the body a strong frame without burying the dress itself. Here Michele’s instinct for decoration found a convincing scale within Valentino, a house whose founder understood glamour as something immediately visible across a room.This was Michele’s fourth ready-to-wear collection since taking over Valentino in 2024. The 80-look length occasionally blurred its focus, though the bustier silhouettes and evening dresses gave the collection a strong centre. Michele filled the library with possible lives and gave his appetite for abundance a reason to remain open-ended. The unread wardrobe, in his hands, still has plenty left on its shelves.

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all images (c) Valentino Press

Christian Louboutin SS27 - Eternal Youth in Paris

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A review of the Christian Louboutin Spring/Summer Women’s 2027 Show

Christian Louboutin’s Eternal Fairytale

written MALCOLM THOMAS

Long inspired by the cabaret, on Friday at the Théâtre du Chatelet Christian Louboutin unveiled a Baz Luhrmann Moulin Rouge-level production of “Eternal Youth”. The name of his theatrical Spring/Summer 2027 show. A cabaret starring Dita Von Teese, who at one point was perched atop the sole of a shoe. La Pigalle, of course, the iconic heel with which Louboutin will be forever known.

Christian Louboutin Women Spring Summer 2027
/ at Théâtre du Châtelet with Dita Von Teese

Christian Louboutin Women Spring Summer 2027
/ at Théâtre du Châtelet with Dita Von Teese

Christian Louboutin Women Spring Summer 2027
/ at Théâtre du Châtelet with Dita Von Teese

Christian Louboutin Women Spring Summer 2027
/ at Théâtre du Châtelet with Dita Von Teese

Built by Bruno de Lavenère, whose C.V. includes the Opening Ceremony at the 2024 Olympics, and featuring a world-class team of creative collaborators including Olivier Balazuc, Mathieu Herzog, Samy Bishai, Natacha Atlas, Josépha Madoki and the Bachana Dance Company, guests were dazzled by music, dance and a kind of vaudeville, old-timey glamour that’s never out of step in Paris. Artistic contributions from John Galliano, Stephen Jones and Mr. Pearl added to the “fairytale of empowerment” (a phrase coined by the house) with Von Teese affecting the visage of Snow White, hair black as ebony, skin pure as snow, lips red as blood, in her own liberated image.

Beginning in the deafening silence of a forgotten world, draped in sadness, Von Teese embarked on a journey of self-discovery and transformation, with enchanting footwear leading the way. Jewel-encrusted Red Shoes that brought endless dance, Seven-League Boots conquered distance, and Hermès' Winged Sandals granted flight. Each carrying the promise of movement, transformation, and freedom. A new way to tell the same story of the Christian Louboutin woman, self-possessed, independent and gloriously resilient.

Christian Louboutin Women Spring Summer 2027
/ at Théâtre du Châtelet with Dita Von Teese

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all images (c) Christian Louboutin Press, photographed by Tanguy Sergheraert

Paris Fashion Week Womenswear SS27 - Streetstyle

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OUTSIDE THE SHOWS
That’s Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS27

written LE MILE

Outside the official schedules and beyond the staged precision of the runway, Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS27 revealed another side of the season. In the heat of late June, the city became a shifting surface of arrivals, pauses, crossings and departures. Fashion moved through the streets with less formality, yet no less intent. Tailoring appeared lighter, silhouettes opened up, skin became part of the composition, and utility was softened by ease. The mood was not casual in the simple sense. It was deliberate, edited and alert to the body in motion.

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Auralee

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Pharell Williams attending Comme des Garcons

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Doublet

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Egonlab

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Comme des Garcons

Captured by Ian Kobylanski, Outside the Shows looks at the figures who shaped this atmosphere between presentations. Guests, editors, stylists and familiar faces assembled their own readings of the season through sheer layers, loose proportions, sharp eyewear, worn-in denim, technical pieces and gestures of exposure. What emerged was not a single trend, but a visual field shaped by climate, attitude and proximity.

Shot during the final days of the Paris circuit in June, the series reflects a city briefly transformed into an open-air index of contemporary menswear. Outside the Shows observes how fashion circulates beyond the runway, where garments are tested by heat, movement and the gaze of the street.

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Lemaire

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Lemaire

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @delfin attending Junya Watanabe

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @esdeekid attending Rick Owens x adidas

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Lemaire

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @loretoperalta attending Willy Chavarria

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Sacai

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Rick Owens x adidas

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @maluma attending 3. Palais

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @tydollasign attending Doublet

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @venmarquardt attending Yohji Yamamoto

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all visuals
(c) IAN KOBYLANSKI

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS27, June 2026

Paris Fashion Week Womenswear FW26 - Streetstyle

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OUTSIDE THE SHOWS
That’s Paris Fashion Week Womenswear FW26

written LE MILE

Outside the official schedules and beyond the choreographed pace of the runway, Paris Fashion Week Womenswear FW26 appeared in fragments across the streets between venues, cafés, taxis and sudden crossings of the boulevard. The city once again became a moving stage where the rhythm of fashion month revealed itself in passing silhouettes and fleeting encounters.

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
COMME DES GARCONS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
HERMES

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LOEWE

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LOEWE

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LOEWE

Across the runways in Paris, the season leaned into a heightened dialogue between structure and softness as designers revisited ideas of femininity through precision and fluidity. Romantic fabrics such as lace and sheer layers appeared alongside sculpted tailoring and sharply defined silhouettes, while sensual black, saturated colour and glossy materials punctuated the collections with moments of intensity. Houses including Dior, Saint Laurent, McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Miu Miu and Alaïa articulated a season balancing clarity with emotion, discipline with instinct.

Moving through the streets between venues, these ideas took on a more instinctive rhythm as attendees assembled their own visual language from fragments of the season. Elongated coats moved beside fluid dresses layered under oversized outerwear, precise tailoring met sheer textures and flashes of colour, while boots, sculptural bags, archival references and unexpected material contrasts appeared in motion as people travelled between appointments, presentations and late arrivals. Captured by Ian Kobylanski, Outside the Shows turns its attention to this transitional space where fashion briefly leaves the runway and enters the street, observing the individuals who animate the atmosphere surrounding the shows. Shot across Paris during the closing days of the womenswear calendar in early March, the series reflects a city temporarily transformed into a corridor of silhouettes where ideas introduced on the runway begin their first life in the open air.

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
Jessica Chastain, ZIMMERMANN

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LACOSTE

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
GIVENCHY

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
LACOSTE

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
ISSEY MIYAKI

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
COMME DES GARCONS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
GABRIELA HEARST

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
GIVENCHY

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
COMME DES GARCONS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
COMME DES GARCONS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
NINA RICCI

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
GIVENCHY

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
AKRIS

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
OTTOLINGER

Paris Fashion Week FALL-WINTER 2026
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD

all visuals
(c) IAN KOBYLANSKI

Paris Fashion Week Womenswear FW26, March 2026