Viewing entries tagged
ss27

Milan Fashion Week SS27, Backstage for Spring 2027

Milan Fashion Week SS27, Backstage for Spring 2027

Milan Fashion Week SS27 Backstage

Four Designers, Four Rooms

 

written MONICA DE LUNA
documented MARC HAEFFNER

 

At Vivetta, a model lifts her arms while several people fasten a dress of coloured beads and chains around her. Nearby, a makeup artist kneels to brush colour onto another model’s ankle. Marc Haeffner photographed these moments for LE MILE Backstage at Milan Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2027.

 

Murano’s room is brighter and busier, a model stands in a white pleated dress while someone works at her hem; another sits still as several people tend to her face and hair. Images from Fritz Lang’s Metropolis hang on the wall. Haeffner includes the makeup tables, clothes rails and people passing through the frame. He also gives the models time alone: a dress seen from behind, a face turned towards the camera, a pause before the show begins.

Vivetta’s team was working with the archive of a house whose founder had left. Murano had returned to draping by way of Metropolis. Phan Dang Hoang brought a Vietnamese folk tale to Milan; Simon Cracker recalled the costumes he had made for his neighbours as a child. Haeffner caught the clothes at the point where all those ideas had to be put on, adjusted and worn.

 
Murano Francesco during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine Fritz Lang’s Metropolis Inspiration Images hanging on the wall

Francesco Murano SS27
Fritz Lang’s Metropolis Inspiration Images

 

Francesco Murano

Fritz Lang’s Metropolis premiered in 1927 and imagined a future set in 2026. Murano took the film’s two Marias, a woman and her mechanical double, into Éidola, his Spring/Summer 2027 collection. Haeffner photographed the reference images pinned up backstage, within sight of the team preparing the models.

Murano has worked with draping for several seasons, and here, glossy jersey was folded into precise ridges that loosened farther down the body; other dresses found their shape through panels held in place by folds, sometimes without seams. Capes covered the shoulders and opened at the back. Studs sewn onto georgette suggested chain mail, though the fabric remained soft. In Haeffner’s photographs, a model stands quietly in a white dress gathered into fine pleats. There is time to see what the folds are doing before she takes a step. Murano gave them a firmer line this season, while allowing the fabric to respond to every change in posture.

Murano Francesco during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Francesco Murano SS27
Backstage

Murano Francesco during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Francesco Murano SS27
Backstage

 
Murano Francesco during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Francesco Murano SS27
Backstage

Murano Francesco during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Francesco Murano SS27
Backstage

Murano Francesco during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Francesco Murano SS27
Backstage


 
 
Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

Vivetta

With Vivetta Ponti gone from the label she founded, Treasure & Trinkets offered a close look at what the new team intends to keep. The house’s taste for ornament was still there, though the clothes around it had grown more assured. Sheer shirts came with pronounced plastrons; long skirts and fitted jackets gave the collection a cleaner line. Pale yellow, peach and powder blue appeared alongside black and bone white.

Beads and other components from the 1970s, 1980s and 1990s were collected and remade as necklaces, bags and clothing. Haeffner photographed one of the beaded pieces as several people fastened it onto a model with her arms raised. The chains had to be positioned and secured before they could hang lightly from her body. It is a lovely, practical view of a dress that could easily appear effortless on the runway. The quieter jackets and skirts gave such pieces room to be as eccentric as Vivetta has always allowed.

Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

 
Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage

 
Vivetta during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Vivetta SS27
Backstage


 
 

Phan Dang Hoang

Phan Dang Hoang titled his SS27 collection Tấm Cám after the Vietnamese folk tale. He focused on Tấm, who survives a series of reversals by taking new forms. The show also drew on the women of Kinh Bắc and on garments such as the áo yếm and the mỏ quạ headscarf. Hoang brought those references into a wardrobe that included loose denim, oversized jackets and eveningwear.

Artisans from villages in northern Vietnam used silk thread to embroider lotus flowers and golden orioles onto the clothes. The work continues Hoang’s interest in Vietnamese craft across several Milan seasons, though this collection takes its cues from a story many Vietnamese people have known since childhood. Two of Haeffner’s portraits catch different parts of the collection. One centres on a patterned ochre jacket. In the other, a black headscarf is worn with gloves and a sculpted dress. That second image is particularly striking in its simplicity.

 
Phan Dang Hoang during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Phan Dang Hoang SS27
Backstage

 
Phan Dang Hoang during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Phan Dang Hoang SS27
Backstage

 

 
 

Simon Cracker

Via Francia is named after the street in Romagna where Simone Botte spent childhood summers with his grandparents. He and his cousin Nicoletta once staged a show for the neighbours, making costumes from curtains, tablecloths and clothes found in family trunks. Botte returned to that memory for Simon Cracker’s SS27 collection. He also had something direct to say about fashion’s prices: people who cannot buy a runway piece should feel free to make their own version.

Hooks let sections shift around the body and scrap fabrics were sewn into patchwork; promotional T-shirts appeared with gowns; lunchboxes became bags. Some garments were assembled entirely by hand, without electricity. At times, so much happens in a single look that the clothes get crowded out. But Botte has seen people in his community remake his earlier designs from things they already own, and Via Francia welcomes them to do it again.

 
Simon Cracker during MFW SS27 photographed by Marc Haeffner for LE MILE Magazine

Simon Cracker SS27
Backstage

 

Vivetta, Francesco Murano, Phan Dang Hoang and Simon Cracker, photographed for LE MILE by Marc Haeffner.

Best of New York Fashion Week SS27 - Ten Direction for Spring 2027

Best of New York Fashion Week SS27 - Ten Direction for Spring 2027

Best Of New York Fashion Week SS27

New York, In Ten Collections

 

written ALBAN E. SMAJLI
documented NOA LESCHE

 

New York Fashion Week has rarely depended on a single definition of New York style. Its relevance comes from contradiction: commercial polish beside improvised presentation, established names sharing the calendar with designers still working out of small studios, and familiar American clothing pulled apart by people whose experiences of the city are anything but uniform. Spring/Summer 2027 made those differences particularly visible.

 

Photographed for LE MILE by Noa Lesche, this selection brings together ten SS27 collections shown across New York. It includes debut appearances, long-awaited returns and designers revisiting the ideas and techniques that have shaped their work. ThreeASFOUR returned to the runway after five years, using denim as an everyday material and a starting point for experimentation. Magda Butrym staged her first New York show, bringing her precise and sensual vision of womanhood to the city. Terrence Zhou’s BAD BINCH TONGTONG continued to explore how radically clothing can change the shape and presence of the body.

What can be done to a shirt, a military jacket, a pair of chinos or an oversized hoodie before it stops belonging to its original category? Avon Anglers and Ethan Lewy worked through recognisable menswear archetypes, while Clara Son introduced instability through twisting and knotting. Alienant turned streetwear into protective volume; Science Project Company examined the visual codes of hierarchy. Big Ocean’s collaboration with Andy Yu brought Korean pop culture into conversation with British military and Victorian references. RIO, meanwhile, looked towards plants, saturated architecture and the physical suggestion of new growth. Together, these collections offered something more accurate: ten distinct positions on clothing, identity and presentation, documented across a city whose fashion culture remains strongest when it resists speaking with one voice.

 
MAGDA BUTRYM SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27

 

MAGDA BUTRYM

For her New York runway debut, Magda Butrym named the collection Natalia, referencing Polish artist Natalia LL and a model of femininity authored from within rather than arranged for an external gaze. Broad-shouldered coats and severe leather blousons were placed against transparent dresses, lace, lingerie constructions, feathers and pearls. A runway strewn with roses reinforced the brand’s familiar romantic vocabulary, but the collection was strongest in its harder collisions: foil-coated outerwear over exposed skin, or a black trench containing something almost weightless beneath it. Butrym’s sensuality remained deliberate, controlled and conscious of its own image-making power.

 
MAGDA BUTRYM SS27  New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27  New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27  New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

MAGDA BUTRYM SS27

 

 

ALIENANT

Yuchen Han titled Alienant’s SS27 collection A Glimpse of Divinity, beginning with a childhood image of an ant carrying a grain of rice larger than itself. That improbable burden became a study in endurance: oversized hoodies, track jackets and loose trousers surrounded the body with protective volume, while distressed surfaces kept the clothes from appearing comfortably insulated. The streetwear language itself was familiar, but Han made it personal through imbalance, abrasion and an almost defensive scale. Presented at New York Men’s Day, the collection framed resilienc as the physical effort of carrying what appears impossible.

 
 
Alienant SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

ALIENANT SS27

Alienant SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

ALIENANT SS27

Alienant SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

ALIENANT SS27

Alienant SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

ALIENANT SS27


 
 
Clara Son SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

CLARA SON SS27

CLARA SON

Clara Son disturbed tailored clothing through physical gestures that remained visible in the finished garments. Fabric twisted across the torso, seams changed direction and sections were gathered or knotted instead of settling into conventional symmetry. The presentation extended that instability through performance, allowing the clothing to be understood in movement rather than as a sequence of isolated looks. Son’s approach was most convincing when the intervention remained economical: a controlled fold or displaced fastening could make an otherwise familiar piece feel psychologically unsettled. SS27 continued her interest in menswear as an emotional form, capable of suggesting vulnerability without abandoning structure.

 
Clara Son SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

CLARA SON SS27

 
Clara Son SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

CLARA SON SS27


 
 
AVON ANGLERS SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

AVON ANGLERS SS27

AVON ANGLERS SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

AVON ANGLERS

Patrik Rzepski approached American menswear from inside its most recognisable categories. Chinos, checked shirts, pleated trousers, denim and hoodies were retained as practical clothes, then reconsidered through fabric, proportion and construction. Japanese rainwear material gave a technical character to familiar shapes, while upcycled Carhartt trousers and bleached T-shirts introduced the evidence of prior use. Produced in New York, the collection resisted heritage nostalgia and gratuitous deconstruction. Its strongest pieces relied on small disruptions: a more deliberate volume, an unexpected surface or a workwear reference refined without being cleaned of its original purpose.

 
AVON ANGLERS SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

AVON ANGLERS SS27

 
AVON ANGLERS SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

AVON ANGLERS SS27

 

 

BAD BINCH TONGTONG

Terrence Zhou’s bodies rarely occupy only the space conventionally allowed to clothing. For SS27, hooped constructions pushed skirts far beyond the hips, spherical forms appeared to hover around the models and translucent fabric kept even the largest silhouettes unexpectedly light. Neon pinks, acid greens and illuminated elements gave the runway the heightened colour of an imagined world, culminating in Saweetie’s closing appearance. The collection’s spectacle rested on serious control: structures bounced, swayed and shifted without collapsing into static costume. Zhou’s achievement was to make extreme volume feel responsive to movement, giving fantasy a physical logic of its own.

 
BAD BINCH SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

BAD BINCH SS27

BAD BINCH SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

BAD BINCH SS27

BAD BINCH SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

BAD BINCH SS27


 
 
BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU SS27

 

BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU

Created with Big Ocean, the Korean group recognised as the first deaf K-pop boy band, Andy Yu’s collection assembled an unlikely vocabulary of British military dress, Victorian romance and hard-wearing denim. Cadet jackets were cropped or softened with lace; floral appliqués spilled from a blouson; loose shirting acquired ornamental overlays. Rather than translating the band’s identity into merchandise, Yu developed a fuller visual proposition around performance and communication. The ceremonial elements gave the clothes presence, while denim and workwear prevented the collection from becoming overly precious. It was among New York Men’s Day’s most resolved and genuinely surprising collaborations.

 
BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine BTS Show

BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU SS27

 
BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

BIG OCEAN × ANDY YU SS27

 

 

ETHAN LEWY

Ethan Lewy describes his work as “charming menswear,” and SS27 gave the phrase substance without relying entirely on nostalgia. Classic tailoring and neatly composed shirts appeared in spirited colours, faded camouflage, painterly checks and loose, ink-like patterns. The silhouettes remained legible, allowing surface and fabric to carry much of the collection’s personality. Made partly from luxury deadstock textiles, the clothes possessed the slight irregularity of pieces discovered rather than uniformly manufactured. At times the whimsy approached preciousness, but Lewy’s restraint in construction kept the presentation grounded. Its appeal lay in making conventional polish feel individual again.

 
ETHAN LEWY SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

ETHAN LEWY SS27

ETHAN LEWY SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

ETHAN LEWY SS27

 

 

RIO

Rio Uribe’s Horizons looked to the architecture of Luis Barragán and to plants as models for colour, proportion and growth. Sun-faded pink, deep cyan, indigo and succulent green moved through relaxed sportswear, elongated silhouettes and more emphatically sculpted forms. Flowers and carnivorous plants informed shapes without being reproduced as polite decoration; their opening, folding and consuming structures were translated into volume around the body. Presented with RIO’s characteristic mix of streetwear and unapologetic individuality, the collection treated renewal as something physical. New beginnings arrived through saturated colour and silhouettes that appeared to be actively expanding.

RIO SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

RIO SS27

RIO SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

RIO SS27


 
 
SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY SS27

 

SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY

Heginz Janvier called Science Project Company’s collection Reading the Room, using military clothing and technical tailoring to examine the social codes through which hierarchy and belonging are recognised. Uniform references appeared in controlled layers, functional detailing and garments that signalled different positions within an implied chain of command. The clothes drew equally from hip-hop’s use of dress to communicate status, protection and affiliation. Rather than reproducing literal service uniforms, Janvier focused on how authority is constructed visually—often before anyone speaks. The collection’s precision gave those questions clarity, while its street-level practicality prevented the concept from overwhelming the clothing.

 
SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY SS27

SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

SCIENCE PROJECT COMPANY SS27


 

THREEASFOUR

Returning to the runway after five years, threeASFOUR built its SS27 collection around denim, described by the designers as a “uniform of humanity.” New jeans and archetypal jackets appeared beside archival forms reconstructed in indigo-dyed cotton and repurposed vintage Levi’s. Spiral-cut, reversible trousers demonstrated the trio’s geometric pattern-making at its most functional; elsewhere, tetrahedral structures, illuminated icosahedrons, bubble helmets and a 3D-printed butterfly-wing dress pushed the material into speculative territory. The scale of the show occasionally bordered on excess, yet its central proposition remained clear: familiarity does not exclude experimentation. Even the most universal garment can support an entirely singular system of construction.

 
THREEASFOUR SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

THREEASFOUR SS27

THREEASFOUR SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

THREEASFOUR SS27

THREEASFOUR SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

THREEASFOUR SS27

THREEASFOUR SS27 New York Fashionweek Noa Lesche NYFW LE MILE Magazine

THREEASFOUR SS27

 

Best of Berlin Fashion Week SS27 - William Fan, GmbH, Dagger & More

Best of Berlin Fashion Week SS27 - William Fan, GmbH, Dagger & More

Best Of Berlin Fashion Week SS27

Six Shows That Proved Berlin Has Its Own System

 

written KLAAS HAMMER

 

Berlin may have been windy this season, but that did little to deter the city's fashion crowd—or the growing number of international guests—from filling the front rows of Berlin Fashion Week. Across the week, designers once again proved that creativity extended far beyond the clothes themselves. From Zehlendorf and Friedrichshain to the iconic ICC building and Reference Studios' Intervention at the Kronprinzenpalais, each venue became an integral part of the storytelling. On the runway, Berlin showcased what continues to define its fashion identity: sharp tailoring, diverse casting, politically engaged collections, and a new generation of designers confidently shaping the future of the city's creative scene.

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand William Fan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand William Fan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 
 

William Fan

Opening Berlin Fashion Week with a bang, William Fan presented EXCHANGE, a collection inspired by the rituals of collecting and the memories attached to objects found while travelling. Referencing marketplaces from Marrakech to Tokyo, the Berlin designer translated the idea of cultural exchange into a wardrobe that felt both familiar and constantly evolving.

Instead of relying on standout looks, Fan built momentum through repetition. Relaxed cargo trousers anchored the collection, while layered styling, elongated proportions and subtle utilitarian details created a sense of effortless continuity. Delicate pleating introduced movement without overpowering the clean silhouettes, and small metallic charms appeared like keepsakes gathered over time—echoing the collection's central idea that clothes, much like souvenirs, carry the stories of where we've been.

 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand William Fan runway look

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand William Fan runway look

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand William Fan runway look

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand William Fan runway look

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ William Fan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain bts

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

Unvain

Following the success of its debut runway show earlier this year, expectations for Unvain's return to Berlin Fashion Week were high. Fashion insiders anticipated one of the week's standout presentations—and they were right.

The collection balanced rawness with precision. Sheer dresses met low-rise trousers, washed-out T-shirts contrasted with a silver-coated military parka, while unfinished edges and a restrained colour palette reinforced the label's understated aesthetic. Rather than chasing spectacle, Unvain found confidence in subtle styling and carefully considered proportions. Sustainability remained part of the brand's design language without becoming its headline. The fur pieces were created entirely from vintage garments, reconstructed in collaboration with resale platform Sellpy, giving existing materials a new purpose. The result was a collection that felt contemporary, self-assured, and confirmed that Unvain is quickly establishing itself as one of Berlin Fashion Week's most exciting emerging names.

 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain bts

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain bts

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Unvain runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Unvain seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Barragan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

Barragan

Without having followed Barragán closely before Berlin Fashion Week, the presentation at the Mexican Embassy came as a striking discovery. Set within the diplomatic surroundings of the embassy, the show offered more than a traditional runway moment—it created a space for reflection, questioning how identity is shaped, represented, and constantly transformed.

With its queer and Mexican heritage at the core, Barragán has created a distinctive visual language that challenges traditional ideas of identity, questions existing power structures, and reflects on the complexities of contemporary culture. One of the collection’s strongest elements was its casting. In a fashion landscape that increasingly seems to move back towards narrow beauty ideals, Barragán’s runway felt refreshingly open, bringing together different body types, ages, and expressions of individuality. The collection itself embraced contrast and tension.

 

Distressed T-shirts were paired with transparent fabrics, low-rise trousers with visible underwear, and glossy leather jackets with skin-tight neon-green catsuits. Second-hand inspired denim, heavy boots, and intentionally imperfect layering gave the looks a raw and expressive energy. Presented inside the Mexican Embassy, BARRAGÁN SS30 explored identity as something shaped through movement, politics, history, and cultural exchange. Rather than presenting nationality as a fixed concept, the collection reflected on belonging as something continuously negotiated—formed through experiences, memories, and the places we inhabit.

 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Barragan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Barragan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Barragan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Barragan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Barragan

Berlin Fashion Week SS27
/ Barragan seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

 
 

Dagger

After making its runway debut at Berlin Fashion Week last season, Dagger returned with another presentation created in collaboration with Reference Studios „Intervention“ and once again proved why the queer streetwear label has quickly become one of the most exciting emerging voices of the week. Following the overwhelming response to its first show, designer Luke Raine admits that the success came as a surprise. “Genuinely, it was a total shock,” he explains. “We had never done a fashion show before and didn’t know if, judged by an industry standard, people would connect with it.” The reaction ultimately became a defining moment for the designer, reinforcing his decision to trust his instincts and continue building Dagger on its own terms.

For SS27, Raine returned to the coastal seaside town of his youth, Portrush—a place shaped by early 2000s skate culture, summer crowds, and teenage memories. The collection captured those formative years: first jobs, first freedoms, late nights, and the feeling of discovering who you might become. Rather than documenting the town as it was, Raine explored a “rose-tinted version” of home, focusing on the optimism of youth and the moment when the world suddenly begins to feel bigger. Beyond the clothing itself, what stood out was Dagger’s ability to create a complete universe. Few brands manage to bring together casting, hair, makeup, styling, and music with such natural precision. Every element felt connected, reflecting the community-driven spirit at the heart of the label.

The collection translated this authenticity into clothes that appeared already lived in. Washed-out prints, over-dyed denim, college shirts, and sports jerseys came together with relaxed silhouettes and skate-inspired references. Between DIY aesthetics, streetwear codes, and working-class influences, Dagger celebrated the beauty of garments that carry memories—clothing not just made to be worn, but to become part of someone’s story.

For Raine, Dagger has always been about more than clothing. “DAGGER is about taking a chance on yourself no matter who or where you come from,” he says, reflecting on the brand’s beginnings after investing his final savings into printing his first T-shirts. That personal sense of belief has become part of the label’s identity, allowing its pieces to connect with a growing international audience, from Berlin’s creative scene to artists such as Tyla and Rema. With SS27, Dagger continues to prove that authenticity cannot be manufactured. It is built through community, personal history, and the stories people choose to carry with them.

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Dagger

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Dagger

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Dagger

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Dagger

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Dagger

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Dagger

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Dagger seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

 
 

GmbH

Closing Berlin Fashion Week’s Reference Studios “Intervention” with a powerful final statement, GmbH turned the runway into a dialogue between forgotten histories and the brand’s own visual language. For their anniversary collection Desire Paths, research into Berlin’s couture past including fashion historian Gesa Kessemeier’s work and archival garments from Julia Schwarz’s “Berliner Chic” collection became a starting point rather than a blueprint. The designers did not recreate the past; they filtered its silhouettes, craftsmanship, and attitude through the unmistakable codes of GmbH.

 

While remaining anchored in the distinctive GmbH menswear aesthetic, Desire Paths expanded the brand’s visual language with selected womenswear looks, including a memorable appearance by DJ Arca. Across the collection, archival influences met familiar GmbH signatures: cropped bomber jackets, over-the-knee boots, short shorts, and precisely constructed silhouettes were united through a restrained palette of black, grey, and cream. Custom footwear created with UGG and archival-inspired eyewear developed in collaboration with ic! berlin subtly reinforced the collection’s dialogue between craftsmanship, heritage, and contemporary design.

What made the presentation particularly memorable was the emotional connection between fashion, music, and history. When the soundtrack shifted to Hildegard Knef after some looks, the relationship between Berlin’s past and present felt complete—a rare runway moment where every element came together.

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand GmbH

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand GmbH

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand GmbH

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand GmbH Runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand GmbH Runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand GmbH Runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ GmbH seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

 
 

Marie Louise Müller

One of the newcomers on this season's Berlin Fashion Week schedule, Marie-Louise Müller transformed the rooftop of Lobe Block into a poetic garden for her SS27 collection Escapist Garden. Against the backdrop of raw concrete, dried flower petals welcomed guests while soft house music and playful melodies created the feeling of a warm summer afternoon. Inspired by childhood memories of long days spent barefoot in the garden, Müller presented a collection that celebrated nature through craftsmanship rather than spectacle. Around 2,500 hours of handwork went into the looks, with crochet, embroidery, hand knitting, and upcycled natural fibres forming the foundation of a wardrobe designed to outlast seasonal trends.

 

The collection unfolded in a palette drawn directly from the natural world, moving from soft creams and earthy greens to delicate pinks, raspberry reds, and sky blues. Floral embroidery and insect motifs appeared throughout the garments, while sculptural pieces—including a skirt constructed from a garden hose—introduced a playful contrast to the collection's otherwise delicate aesthetic. Watering cans carried by several models reinforced the show's whimsical storytelling without feeling overly literal. Rather than chasing novelty, Escapist Garden found its strength in patience, craftsmanship, and emotional storytelling. Marie-Louise Müller delivered one of the week's most quietly memorable debuts, proving that slow fashion and imaginative design can still captivate a Berlin Fashion Week audience.

 
 
LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Marie Louise Müller

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Marie Louise Müller

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 BTS
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Marie Louise Müller Runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Marie Louise Müller Runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer

LE MILE Magazine Berlin Fashion Week SS27 editor Klaas Hammer photo Nicolai Sauer Brand Marie Louise Müller Runway

Berlin Fashion Week SS27 Runway
/ Marie Louise Müller seen by Nicolai Sauer

 

Paris Fashion Week Womenswear SS27 - Streetstyle

Paris Fashion Week Womenswear SS27 - Streetstyle

OUTSIDE THE SHOWS
That’s Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS27

 

written LE MILE

 

Outside the official schedules and beyond the staged precision of the runway, Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS27 revealed another side of the season. In the heat of late June, the city became a shifting surface of arrivals, pauses, crossings and departures. Fashion moved through the streets with less formality, yet no less intent. Tailoring appeared lighter, silhouettes opened up, skin became part of the composition, and utility was softened by ease. The mood was not casual in the simple sense. It was deliberate, edited and alert to the body in motion.

 
 
uralee Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Auralee

Comme des Garcons Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Pharell Williams attending Comme des Garcons

 
Doublet Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Doublet

Egonlab Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Egonlab

 
Junya Watanabe Man Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Comme des Garcons

 
 

Captured by Ian Kobylanski, Outside the Shows looks at the figures who shaped this atmosphere between presentations. Guests, editors, stylists and familiar faces assembled their own readings of the season through sheer layers, loose proportions, sharp eyewear, worn-in denim, technical pieces and gestures of exposure. What emerged was not a single trend, but a visual field shaped by climate, attitude and proximity.

Shot during the final days of the Paris circuit in June, the series reflects a city briefly transformed into an open-air index of contemporary menswear. Outside the Shows observes how fashion circulates beyond the runway, where garments are tested by heat, movement and the gaze of the street.

 
 
Lemaire Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Lemaire

Lemaire Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski GUCCI advertising on LE MILE magazine backcover

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Lemaire

Junya Watanabe Man Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @delfin attending Junya Watanabe

Rick Owens Man Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @esdeekid attending Rick Owens x adidas

 
Lemaire Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Lemaire

 
Willy Chavarria Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @loretoperalta attending Willy Chavarria

Sacai Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Sacai

Rick Owens Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ Rick Owens x adidas

Eifeltower Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027

 
 
Paradis Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @maluma attending 3. Palais

 
 
 
Doublet Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @tydollasign attending Doublet

Yohji Yamamoto Paris Fashion Week PFW SS27 Menswear LE MILE Magazine Outside The Show Ian Kobylanski

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS2027
/ @venmarquardt attending Yohji Yamamoto

 

all visuals
(c) IAN KOBYLANSKI

Paris Fashion Week Menswear SS27, June 2026